One of these fasteners may have a tamper sticker covering the access to the torx head. I used a small strip of gaff tape to wipe it off. You can use your fingernail to press the gaff tape into the tamper sticker to break it up. I found it easier than using a tool to scrape it off. It took me about 5 minutes to remove 10 sets of these tamper stickers. This may or may not work for the fastener covers in the arms. I used a tool for those.

Comments on Paul Not Bunyan's post. Confirmed T4 bit. I originally thought I needed a longer T4 bit, but the iFixit bit worked fine. The T4 screws near the nose were difficult, but let the plastic housing of the kato mask guide your bit to the head of the T4. On the subject of the kato mask clips: start on the left lens without the IPD slider. Once you have bottom lens clip unfastened, run your plastic spudger on the inside of the clip on either side of the lens to free the other two clips. Indeed, the cover came off easily once you figure out the puzzle. Thanks Paul Not Bunyan!

I used this guide to replace the mouse wheel. From this point remove the additional 2 pin Dupont connector and the 5mm torx (T5s) keeping the board to the lower housing. Remove the board and the broken wheel and then replace the wheel. Follow the directions in reverse to re-assemble the mouse. The mouse wheel can be found on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Mouse-Replacement....

In the older model for Fly360 camera, the screws are PH000.

My LCD replacement part was a reclaimed part and did not have the foam gasket. I decided to 3D print one out of TPU. See: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:497066....

I also needed the Philips 000 for steps 11 - 14. Controller purchased in 2018.

I found this to be true of mine as well (purchased 2018).