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Find repair and further details about the Samsung RF30HB*DB** refrigerator—a compact, built-in model with a bottom-mounted freezer, French door access, automatic defrost system, and an ice maker, including a 'Thru the Door' service feature introduced in 2014. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern RF30HB*DB**.

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Freezer not cold to freeze

The freezer is cooling down but not freezing food. The temp shows -2 setpoint and the fridge 35 setpoint. I replaced both the freezer and fridge evap fan. The freezer coils were no ice build up. The fridge had some see picture.

Still not cooling. No codes, I hear humming not so loud have to put war to fridge.

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Update (08/12/24)

It's been working until yesterday. The only thing I noticed is my son fills up 1 gallons of water daily into his water bottle and dumps half of the ice tray of ice into. I noticed he didn't push the maker all the way in.

I check temps all are good. -2/35. Food cold but freezer hamburger patties can be pushed and made into mush. That's on the bottom. On the freezer drawer the chicken is rock hard.

Confused.

Update (08/13/24)

So I only have a meat thermometer and it got near zero. I did the door seal test on all doors and the resistance was very very similar to all. I have a infrared thermometer and it registered 09

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Update (09/09/24)

I'm back and still having issues. I've replaced the overload relay, both condenser fans, temperature sensors, checked Freon levels and still the freezer is not getting cold. I also had an infrared thermometer on the compressor while it was running. It was at 133°. Is that too hot.

I did notice on the back of the fridge when I was checking the freon that up near the top in the middle. It looks to be very ice cold and wet. Is there some sort of cavity that would generate ice there and could that possibly be the reason why? And should I defrost this thing overnight?

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Also can anyone Tell me why there is this black stuff over my temperature sensor and the fresh food

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Hi @mattsimoni

What are the actual temperatures in both the refrigerator and the freezer after the compressor has been running for a few hours?

Just verifying that you performed the Self-diagnostic function during normal operation test procedure as shown in the service manual and that there were no error codes, is this correct?

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47 freezer, 68 fridge. After bit fridge down 35 freezer same. No codes. Checked freezer sensor it was in range both ambient and ice water.

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Thank you for your response @jayeff

Just an update. This morning I woke up. Took a look at it. The freezer was at -8 and the fridge was at 35

I could hear a humming noise. I opened the fridge door. The humming noise went away. I closed the door, waited about maybe 15 seconds and the humming noise came back. I'm assuming that's the fan for the evaporator?

A question, if the compressor was failing bad or had a leak would it still get the temperature that it was set to

I threw a loaf of bread in the freezer. It's empty. I'm going to work and I'm going to see if it freezes while I'm at work which theoretically it should. Just curious if the compressor was faulty, would it still get the temperature?

I also plan on owing out the compressor later today and checking the OL and starter relay. Any suggestions

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So I only have a meat thermometer and it got near zero. I did the door seal test on all doors and the resistance was very very similar to all. I have a infrared thermometer and it registered 09

[image|3395077]

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I'm still very weary of why this is working. I went to my local hardware store and got a thermostat for the refrigerator digital and it shows the lowest was -3 and currently sitting at 5° showing that it's working very weird

[image|3395284]

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6 Respuestas

Solución Elegida

I replaced the evaporator fan with an oem one unplugged. The fridge open the doors for 4 hours. Plugged it back in and everything is working as it should. Guess I got some weird fan that I shouldn't have got for going cheap. Thank you everybody for your help.

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Hi @mattsimoni

Looking at the image you posted there's ice forming on the pipes leading to the evaporator unit.

This coupled with the high temperatures indicates a possible lack of refrigerant or a faulty compressor.

The only way to prove this is to access the sealed system and check the high and suction pressures in the system

Depending on your location you may need a licensed repairer to do this due to the environmental regulations regarding the handling of refrigerant gases. Also they have the appropriate equipment to do the job.

To do this you will have to cut into the system, without losing any refrigerant and connect the measuring equipment to view the pressures. Knowing this will determine whether the problem is the compressor or in the system somewhere.

For example:

If it was lack of refrigerant due to a leak, then the remaining refrigerant (if any) would need to be pumped out and stored and then a dye pumped in to see if the leak can be found. If it is determined that it is inside the cabinet walls somewhere then it can't be fixed and the fridge is a write off. If the leak can be fixed, then after this the dye will need to be pumped out and the system flushed and then a vacuum created in the system before the refrigerant can be pumped back in and the pressures checked to make sure that there's the correct amount of refrigerant i.e. not too much or too little, before resealing the system.

If it was a faulty compressor (is it hot to the touch?) then the same as above except for the dye insertion/removal part of the process and a new compressor installed.

Note: Check the user manual or the warranty information for your model. Depending on your location and the age of your refrigerator, if it is a faulty compressor or any other problem in the sealed system there may be a 5 year warranty on the sealed system e.g. evaporator unit, filter dryer, piping etc and a possible 10 year warranty on the compressor. Worth checking if nothing else.

Update (08/07/24)

Hi @mattsimoni

Refrigerator seems OK if a little cold at 35°F (usually 37°F) as is the freezer at -8°F (normally 0°F) so it appears that the refrigerant is OK as is the compressor at this stage.

If the compressor itself or the sealed system had a problem usually it doesn't get better.

It could be electrical i.e. not starting or continuing to operate when it has started or even being told to turn off when it shouldn't.

Looking at the service manual linked in my comment above, the unit has two evaporator units, one in each compartment, connected in series flow if the refrigerator compartment stays between 35°F - 39°F then the compressor is OK as is the sealed system. If it is only the freezer compartment that isn't the correct temp it could be the evap fan there.

If both compartments don't maintain the correct temps then you may have to check the compressor initially to see if it is running, is warm if it is not running indicating that it has been running or if it is stone cold indicating that it hasn't run for a long time.

Bit vague I know but you have to try and narrow down what is/is not happening when the temps aren't correct and then try to work out if something isn't happening when it should, why not e.g. compressor on or off, what temps indicated on display versus actual etc etc

Update (08/08/24)

@mattsimoni

You never said whether the bread was frozen or not after going to/coming back from work. Hopefully you allowed more than the 3 hours between your comments for it to fully freeze as it may take a bit longer than that.

Here's an image of the wiring diagram that may help.

The refrigerator has a lot of temp sensors and there seems to be 2 sensors in the diagram that have at least 1 yellow wire on them but this is from the drawing and not the actual. It may be that they do have two yellow wires on the actual sensor but where they connect into a through connector to a wiring harness to get back to the control board (which is what colours are shown in the wiring diagram) the colours may change between the sensor and the board.

See control board CN30 connector pin 9 for the pantry sensor (which may be the one above the freezer door) and CN30/3 for the humidity sensor.

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(click on image)

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So I changed the evap fan in the freezer also. I checked the temp sensor also and it was within specs for ambient and ice water. There a sensor above on the top of the freezer compartment. I couldn't find anything anywhere on that or how to remove it. It looks just like a temp sensor with yellow wires.

Any suggestions?

Thank you again. @jayeff

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@mattsimoni

If you haven't already done so, try placing a thermometer in the freezer compartment to see what temperature it shows as opposed to what is being shown for the freezer on the display panel.

Try the paper test to check if the freezer door seals are all OK and are providing a good seal.

Place a piece of paper between the freezer door? and the door jamb and with it closed normally, i.e. no pressure on it by you to keep it closed, try pulling it out. It will come out with a bit of effort but not easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this a various places around the door, top bottom and both sides. Also check that the door is straight and parallel to the cabinet and that the seals are clean as well.

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@mattsimoni

How long was the meat in there for?

0.9F should have frozen any food solid, given that it was in there long enough for this to happen. I don't know how long it takes to freeze meat but I think it would be more than a couple of hours

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The meat is frozen. Been in there a week or so. It's very inconsistent.

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@mattsimoni

You could try raising the refrigerator slighlty at the front only by adjusting the feet so that the doors close automatically and see if that works.

Not too far though.

I'm not sure if this works with drawers but with doors I've found that raising the front i.e. so fridge slopes from front to back, so that the doors slowly close from about the 3/4 open position by themselves is sufficient as you don't want too much of a slope on the shelves.

I had to do this for my elderly mother who kept on forgetting to close the fridge doors.

manufacturers state that it needs to be level but I've encountered no problems so far and it has been this way for a few years on my mother's refrigerator.

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it is possible the defroster cycle is messed up, or a relay activating it is sticking, or maybe it is a MOSFET that activates it and it is flacky.

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Yes, the issue could be with the defroster cycle. It might be due to:

Faulty Defroster Timer or Thermostat: This could prevent proper defrosting.

Sticking Relay: A relay that controls the defroster might be malfunctioning.

Flaky MOSFET: If a MOSFET controls the defroster, it might be failing intermittently.

Checking and testing these components should help resolve the issue. Let me know if you need further assistance!

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If something wasn't push in all the way, it may have held the door open just enough to let in air. This may not be obviousl looking at the door seal when closed. Trust me, my sister had the same issue. After removing the seal, it was obvious the door wasn't closing like it should. If it is OK now, that could have been your issue.

A low temp on a refer unit might indicate low refrigerant.

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So I only have a meat thermometer and it got near zero. I did the door seal test on all doors and the resistance was very very similar to all. I have a infrared thermometer and it registered 09

[image|3395077]

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It seems the issue might be related to the freezer drawer not being fully seated. Make sure the drawer is pushed in completely, as improper seating can affect cooling efficiency.

Check for any obstructions around the freezer vents that might be blocking airflow. Ensure your temperature settings are correct: -2°F for the freezer and 35°F for the fridge.

Examine the door seals for any gaps or issues and look for ice buildup around the vents or coils. If these steps don’t resolve the problem, please let me know, and I’ll help further troubleshoot the issue.

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So I only have a meat thermometer and it got near zero. I did the door seal test on all doors and the resistance was very very similar to all. I have a infrared thermometer and it registered 09

[image|3395077]

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@fajteam please see my updates and comments as Im still concerns.

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I'm still very weary of why this is working. I went to my local hardware store and got a thermostat for the refrigerator digital and it shows the lowest was -3 and currently sitting at 5° showing that it's working very weird

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it is going to vary every time the door is opened.

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I get that it will vary. I opened it about 1 hours ago for maybe 15sec to get some meat out. Now it's up at 19ish and looks like frost on the meat wrapper.

Thoughts??

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yeah, 19° is too much. Are the condenser coils clean?

Is it possible what you are seeing is the defrost cycle? This may run once or twice a day.

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I'm back and still having issues. I've replaced the overload relay, both condenser fans, temperature sensors, checked Freon levels and still the freezer is not getting cold

I did notice on the back of the fridge when I was checking the freon that up near the top in the middle. It looks to be very ice cold and wet. Is there some sort of cavity that would generate ice there and could that possibly be the reason why? And should I defrost this thing overnight?

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those 2 spots and the obvious condensation drain on the back is interesting. I have no idea what could be in back of that.

Then again, it is 10yo and per the Lowe's sales person your lucky to get 5 years out of it.

Obviously, defrosting it can't hurt. But why those cold spots??? It may be that one of the Freon lines is intermittently blocked. That would be a none starter for a fix. I don't know how you would verify that.

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Yeah awfully weird. I'm doing a complete defrost right now. Going on hour four. Then I will power back up and wait to see if it starts cooling and maintains.

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I let it defrost for 4 + hours. Plugged it and let it run overnight empty. The fridge was great 35 degrees power mode off. The freezer reported -8 on the display with power mode still on. The thermometer I have in the freezer showed 15 degrees and the lowest recorded was 7 degrees this morning about 12 hours later. No codes. I threw some bread/buns it there for today while at work.

Should the empty freezer reach -8 in 12 hours? should I just buy a new fridge and if so what brand is good now a days?

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