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Freezer is cold but fridge is not

Freezer is working normally but the fridge doesn't get as cold as it should. Freezer is at 0 while fridge is set to be 34, but a handheld temperature check shows 46.

Freezer fan and fridge damper are working.

Put the fridge in diagnostic mode and no errors reported.

Removed the panel covering the freezer evap coils and there was some ice buildup, but it wasn't significant.

Did a hard reset on the fridge. No change.

Any ideas?

Update (12/26/23)

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Hi @nicholasg30894

Are the compressor and evaporator fan running continually trying to drive the refrigerator temp down to the correct operating temp range (usually 37°- 41°F)?

If they're not then the control board thinks that the temp is correct.

Playing devil's advocate, have you verified that the handheld thermometer is indicating the correct temperature? Only asking as I've had questions before where it turned out that the thermometer was battery powered and the battery was low voltage, which gave false readings.

If they are have you checked that the refrigerator door seals are OK and not letting warmer air enter the compartment?

Place a sheet of paper between the door and the door jamb, and with the door closed normally and without exerting any pressure on the door to keep it closed, try pulling the paper out.

It will come out with a bit of effort but not that easily and it should definitely not fall out by itself. Do this at various places around the door, top, bottom and both sides. Also check that the door is aligned straight and parallel to the cabinet in case it is a hinge problem.

Update (12/28/23)

Hi @nicholasg30894

I'm wondering if there's a faulty temp sensor in the refrigerator compartment or if not then a faulty control board.

I realize that you said that the diagnostic tests showed no error but looking at the refrigerator parts list there are two temp sensors in the refrigerator compartment which are both the same type and two sensors (same type as the others) in the freezer compartment.

When looking at the mini manual it appears that the two in the refrigerator compartment may be connected in series although this is not totally explicit whether they are or whether they're connected in parallel back to the control board.

In any event, I was wondering if the diagnostic test just verified that the resistance value of the sensors (thermistors) was within the prescribed range of values equating to the min/max of the expected temps or whether it just checked that they were connected or not and didn't worry about the resistance value.

It could be that if one had drifted slightly as to what it should measure at any given temp, then the combined value would be different and therefore the control board may stop cooling down the refrigerator (i.e. compressor/evap fan stopped) because it thought that it was cold enough, when it actually wasn't.

Try accessing the control board and when the compressor/evap fan have stopped due to "correct temp" reached, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and then disconnect the J1 harness cable plug from the board and then measure between J1/2 and J1/5 on the harness cable (not the board) You should measure either ~28K Ohms (if two sensors in series) or ~7K Ohms (if in parallel) as according to the specs on the sheet the sensors have a resistance value of 14K Ohms @ 37°F.

Normally NTC type thermistors are used in refrigerators/freezer so as the temp goes up their resistance value comes down. You would have to know the rate of change per degree but if the measurements are lower than specified above then the temp may be as per the thermometer or if they're the value as per 37°F the thermsitor(s) may be faulty.

You couldn't just swap the refrigerator temp sensor lead over with the freezer temp sensor lead at the control board to see if then the freezer was too warm and the refrigerator was OK as all the sensors used are the same type,

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They are not running continually.

I verified the handheld thermostat is correct.

No issues with the seal or door alignment.

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@nicholasg30894 I would check the temperature probes. I'm not positive but most refrigeration units use 10K probes. Disconnect them from the board, and place the tips in ice water. Wait a minute or two. Then measure resistance across them one probe at a time. At 32° you should read ~32500 ohms. If one of them doesnt... there's your problem. It sounds like one or possibly both are bad.

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