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The Samsung RF28HFEDB is a 28 cu. ft. freestanding French door refrigerator featuring a twin cooling system, external ice and water dispenser, spill-proof shelves, gallon door bins, two humidity-controlled crispers, a bonus drawer, and an auto-defrost freezer with LED lighting.

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Fridge and freezer not cooling properly

3 days ago the ice maker stopped working. There were no signs of ice. Just water puddles. Eventually the fridge panel started blinking a temperature number. I checked the freezer and found that it was warm. Everything that was frozen thawed out. Me and my father checked the fridge. Coils in the fridge and freezer were not frozen. The fans worked fine. Able to move properly on their own. The condenser coil in the back had little to dirt or dust. Before we checked the fridge I unplugged and plugged the fridge and would eventually give an error 40 c. After what we did the the fridge. Unplug, plug back in, it would give an error 39 c. Both were able to be cleared by hold the fridge and freezer buttons. The 39 c error only comes back if the fridge is disconnected and reconnected. I did check the CPU in the back. It would blink 5 times after reconnecting the fridge to a power outlet. Then change to a steady light, no blinking. We recently called a repair man. He claims it needs gas. Said it would cost 250 for the gas. 350 for the gas and a filter. Sounds like bs but idk. I have yet to decide what to do. Temp for both fridge and freezer are at 60-70 right now.

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It's easy to call BS if you're not familiar with refrigeration systems and electronics with a gut feeling. However, unless you can verify lost refrigerant from a leak using refrigeration gauges and advanced diagnostics to separate a refrigeration system failure from electronics failure, your only recourse may be getting a second opinion from another repair tech. Unfortunately, refrigerators have varied lifetimes between 5-15years, sometimes longer. What you can do is feel the two main lines from the compressor motor. When running, the discharge line is usually hotter (compressing gas creates heat) and fed to the bottom or rear condenser coils to cool down while the return line from the freezer is close to room temperature.

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@notbroken I did check this when i got home yesterday. There was little to no heat coming from the motor. Not even the two pipes. Seeing as we had no other choice we ended up calling back the repair man and agreed to the repair. I suppose he was right about there being no gas. When he cut one of the pipe very little to no gas came out. it was like a 2 second low hissing before it was empty. Currently waiting for results as he said it would take like a day for it to run normally again.

Update: it working again but the freezer isnt. It does actually work. It cools and all but never goes off when its supposed to. Before all this started though, my dad did mess with something in the ice maker. A small white bobber like object behind the ice box. I dont know what he did exactly to it. I just know that he defrosted the ice maker with a hair dryer. He says that the freezer will run if that thing I described is lifted up. Theres currently a small piece of cardboard holding it in place.

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Hi @faf18766

Run the self diagnostic function as shown in the service manual and check what codes are shown. Code meanings are on p63→p.64.

Codes 39 and 40 pertain to ice maker problems so unless it's a mainboard problem that wouldn't affect overall cooling.

The troubleshooting flowcharts start on p.76.

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