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Fridge kscs25fjss01 - Defrost heater doesn't get hot during test mode

Hi everyone, my fridge has been warm (55 F) for a few days now, and the freezer at about 15 F.  The evaporator was full of ice so I tested the defrost thermostat, fan motor, and defrost heater on the bench and they are all ok.  I then entered the fridge into Test Mode and everything checked out ok except when I test the Defrost Heater it doesn't get hot (on the bench it showed continuity @22k Ohms)

Is there anything else I need to test?  I've read about a "Defrost timer" but I am not sure where it is located and how to test. Should the defrost heater get hot during Test Mode?

Thank you in advance for any help you can give me.

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hi @nelaco ,

The defrost heater element is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Usually refrigerator defrost heater elements have a resistance value of <50 Ohms.

According to this link it should have a resistance value of between 21-27 Ohms not 22,000 Ohms.

Scroll down to the Q & A section to view the answer regarding the resistance.

FYI the manufacturer’s (Whirlpool) heater part number indicates that this heater element is used in a lot of different refrigerator makes and models.

Here’s a link to the parts for your model. Scroll down to part #33 and click on it to find the manufacturer’s part number (not the part supplier’s part number) (You’ll end up on the same link as posted above)

There are other suppliers that may suit you better. Just search online using the manufacturer’s part number (WP2323198) only in the search term of your browser, to get results

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Jeyeff, appreciate your detailed response! I made a mistake….I measured the heater again and it is 22 Ohms (not k). What do you think could be wrong at this point? I can’t find a defrost timer in this unit so maybe I should look into the main board?

Thank you again!

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Hi @nelaco ,

I assume that you meant the bi-metal defrost thermostat when you said that you tested the defrost thermostat?

Go into test mode again and check if there is voltage being applied to the defrost heater in the defrost cycle.

Set up the meter first so that you only have to touch as little as possible (or even nothing) as the voltage supplied to the heater is at mains supply value so it can be lethal if you don't know what you're doing.

If there is no voltage turn off and disconnect the power before touching anything and then check the wiring from the mainboard to the heater with an Ohmmeter. You may have to trace the heater wire colours to find where they appear at the mainboard If that is OK it may be in the mainboard

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Yes, I meant the bi-metal thermostat.

Ok, I'll disconnect the heater, then connect my volt meter, put it in test mode and then test the heater and see what/if voltage I get.

thank you again Jeyeff

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Jeyeff, I went ahead and tested and I get NO voltage at all. I guess at this point the only solution is to replace the main board?

Thank you.

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@nelaco ,

Did you prove the wiring between the heater and the control board or test for voltage where it leaves the control board to go to the heater, you didn't say?

I don't know the fridge but are there any relays on the control board that may be operated to send power to the heater?

If not it may be solid state switching which makes it difficult.

If you know where the heater wires connect to on the control board trace the tracks on the board (if possible) and see which components they lead to. Obviously you have to remove the control board to do this.

You may spot something.

With refrigerators in general during auto defrost the control board stops the compressor and evaporator fan and sends power to the heater.

The bi-metal defrost thermostat operates to signal the control board when the heater cut off temp has been reached i.e. ~32 - 33 F (this takes about 15- 20 minutes) to stop power to the heater so that the evaporator won't be damaged if the temp goes any higher and also to start the compressor again to end the auto defrost cycle and start cooling.

So since you have proven that the bi-metal defrost thermostat is OK and it is not telling the control board to stop the heater and presumably the compressor is stopped for long enough for the heater to have done its' job and for the defrost action to occur that just leaves the mainboard

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nelaco estará eternamente agradecido.
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