refrigerator is not cooling Maytag MFI2568AES
My cooling /freezing is not working. Not sure if there was a power outage or refrig door left open. Its not resettling????
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Rep: 685.3mil
3.4mil
1.1mil
2.6mil
Cause 1
Condenser Coils are Dirty
The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat as refrigerant passes through them. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty—if the condenser coils are dirty, clean them.
Cause 2
Condenser Fan Motor
The condenser fan motor draws air though the condenser coils and over the compressor. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, the refrigerator won’t cool properly. To determine if the fan motor is defective, first check the fan blade for obstructions. Next, try turning the fan motor blade by hand. If the blade does not spin freely, replace the condenser fan motor. If no obstructions are present and the fan blade spins freely, use a multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor does not have continuity, replace it.
Cause 3
Evaporator Fan Motor
The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator (cooling) coils and circulates it throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Some refrigerators have more than one evaporator fan motor. On refrigerators with only one evaporator, the evaporator is located in the freezer compartment. If the evaporator fan is not working, it will not circulate the cold air to the refrigerator compartment. If this occurs, the freezer may still get cold, while the refrigerator will not get cold. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.
Cause 4
Compressor
The compressor is a pump which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. If the compressor is not working, the refrigerator won’t cool. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the compressor, first check all of the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, check the compressor. Use a multimeter to test the continuity between the electrical pins on the side of the compressor. If there is an open circuit, the compressor is likely defective. If the compressor is defective, it must be replaced by a licensed technician.
Cause 5
Main Control Board
The main control board might be defective. However, this is almost never the cause. Before replacing the main control board, test all of more commonly defective parts. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.
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Thank you for troubleshooting process. Tried all items at they indicate all pieces are working. Ran diagnostic from fridge display, also all fans and compressor seem to work. But, fridge and freezer just keeping cool, not cold or freezing. Came on suddenly after sone hot weather.
Replaced the Evaporator Fan motor and the fan motor will still not run. Freezer is cold, but no cool air going to refrigerator.
@mike119 I had the same issue with my unit. First I replaced the control board and no change. Replaced a fan motor, no change. Ended up replacing the main board and what do you know, that fixed the problem. I think we had a surge in our power grid one day while I was at work and it smoked the main board. Good luck.
Freezer was working but the refrigerator wasn't cooling. Replaced the condenser fan in freezer and still nothing. Sent Main board in back in and had checked out and they replaced a few tubes. Put main board back in and now the compressor and fan doesn't kick on! Waiting for a reply back from the repair company that done the main board.
Where is the fan so I can try turning the blades ? Thanks
Rep: 448.8mil
11
366
1.4mil
Hi @mike119
What is the make and model number of the refrigerator.
Have you checked that the door switches are electrically OK? The door switches are used not only to turn on/off the lights in the compartments but are also used to signal that a door is open/shut and to turn off/on the evaporator fan
In most refrigerators the evaporator fan will operate as long as the compressor is running and both the doors are shut. If either door is opened the fan will stop but the compressor will keep running. As soon as the door is shut the evap fan will start again
If the door switches are visible in the door jamb i.e. not hidden magnetic switches, manually operate the freezer door switch to fool the control board that the door is shut. The light in the freezer (if there is one) should turn off and the evap fan should turn on.
Also check that the refrigerator compartment light turns on and off when the refrigerator compartment door switch is released and then manually operated.
If still no good, have you checked for voltage at the fan motor? Be safety aware if you try this as a lot of evap fans operate at mains voltage supply i.e. 120V AC or 240V AC depending on your location.
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Rep: 448.8mil
11
366
1.4mil
Hi @bcpapa
Is the compressor hot or too hot to the touch? Is it running continually trying to achieve the set temps?
Is the evaporator unit inside the freezer compartment (behind a panel) icy cold or even iced up at all?
I know that you said that “all fans…. seem to work.”, does this mean the evaporator fan as well, not just the condenser fan? The evap fan will stop when a door is open and start again when the door is shut (either door) and will run as long as the compressor is running, so perhaps you can hear it stop and start by opening and closing a door to verify. The condenser fan can run regardless of the doors being open or shut
Are there any oil residues below the compressor or on/below the condenser coils?
Oil residues may indicate a leak of refrigerant from the sealed system. Not having the correct amount of refrigerant makes for higher temps. There is a special oil mixed in with the refrigerant to lubricate the compressor. If there is a leak the refrigerant will escape to the air undetected but the oil will leave a trace.
You may need to get a licenced repairer to test the high/low pressures in the sealed system to see what and where the problem is.
Depending on your location a licenced repairer may be necessary due to the environmental regulations regarding the handling of refrigerant gases. Where I am you cannot even buy refrigerant gas if you need to recharge a refrigerator’s sealed system for whatever reason, without the specified licence.
What is the model number of the refrigerator?
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I am having the issue of the freezer being cold and the food section not cooling. I have replaced the evap motor, verified the compressor kicks on, condenser fan works. I have replaced the temperature control board and verified the thermistors are working. The evap motor doesn't turn on when I close the doors or tape the switches closed. I ran diagnostics and all the fans passed. I am down to the main control board being faulty. Any suggestions?
@John Wiltfong
What is the model number of the refrigerator?
Does the freezer compartment have a light?
If so then if it goes out when the door switch is manually operated then the switch is OK (The same with the refrigerator compartment) then it is looking like the control board. The door switch is used for two functions, light and evap fan.
If there is no light then maybe check that the door switch is electrically working when operated and released by testing it with an Ohmmeter (disconnect power from the fridge when testing).
The status of the switch i.e. door shut or open determines whether the fan runs or not
@jayeff I ended up replacing the mainboard and the refrigerator works great now. Saved me a ton of $$$ instead of replacing the whole unit.
Rep: 448.8mil
11
366
1.4mil
Hi @Flor de Maria Leon
With most refrigerators (you didn't give the make and model), the evaporator fan is located in the freezer compartment behind a panel at the back of the compartment.
To access it you have to remove the back panel on the inside i.e. access through the door at the front and remove the panel to see the evaporator unit, evaporator fan, defrost heater and defrost thermistor (or thermostat).
This fan cools both compartments, freezer and refrigerator (model dependent as some models also have an evaporator unit and fan in the refrigerator compartment also)
If it is iced over then there is a defrost problem e.g. faulty heater, faulty defrost thermistor, blocked drain from under the evap unit to the evap pan under the compartments near the compressor or faulty heater power supply which is from the control board.
If it is not iced over then it could be a faulty fan motor or fan power supply from the control board. Also check the door switches. The door switches not only tell the control board to turn on/off the lights but also the fan. If your model has visible door switches in the door jamb, manually operate them and check if the lights go out. The fan will not operate if either door is open. Both doors need to be shut for it to work.
Be safety aware disconnect the power supply from the refrigerator when working on it unless testing to see what works etc
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2 comentarios
How do you tell if if the temperature control switch is bad I’m on now.
- de David Bailey
@David Bailey
More info is needed to help you.
What is the make and model number of the refrigerator?
Which compartment is having the temperature problems, refrigerator, freezer or both?
Is the temp too cold or too warm?
Providing more pertinent info in your question gives more relevant answers.
The correct temp in a refrigerator/freezer is dependent on more than just the temp control switch
- de jayeff