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Fridge and Freezer not cooling

Hey everyone. My whirlpool (2013 model) has stopped cooling in the fridge and Freezer. I have check the continuity on the compressor wires and it checks out good. The fan is running and the compressor cuts on and off. Any ideas of what to check now? Thanks for any help.

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I have a whirlpool french door fridge is not working. The control panel will not light up and there is no display of the settings on the control panel. I replaced the control board and the touch pad and still not working. Any help would be appreciated. It is a 2010 model number GI5FSAXBYR2

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My refrigerator whirlpool does not work out. Both freezer and refrigerator whirlpool are not cold. Anyone knows how to fix this? Please

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My whirlpool fridge 2007 model not colling compressor run recently change whirlpool service center thermostat and coil three month only run again same complain I will ask whirlpool service center he check my fridge inform me complain compressor pressor low the complain possible Relationship not please help me what is solution

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On one day, my fridge froze everything on the next day everything thawed even in the freezer. Now it runs but not cooling at all. I have check all that was mentioned. So is it possible the freon drained out is a reason why it froze and now there's none in there and now it doesn't cool at all it just runs?

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I have similar problem. Condenser and all fans run but both fridge and freezer warm. I was told condenser was bad. But how can condenser be bad if it turns on and is running????

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Solución Elegida

Cause 1

Condenser Coils are Dirty

The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat as refrigerant passes through them. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty—if the condenser coils are dirty, clean them.

Cause 2

Evaporator Fan Motor

The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator (cooling) coils and circulates it throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Some refrigerators have more than one evaporator fan motor. On refrigerators with only one evaporator, the evaporator is located in the freezer compartment. If the evaporator fan is not working, it will not circulate the cold air to the refrigerator compartment. If this occurs, the freezer may still get cold, while the refrigerator will not get cold. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.

Cause 3

Condenser Fan Motor

The condenser fan motor draws air though the condenser coils and over the compressor. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, the refrigerator won’t cool properly. To determine if the fan motor is defective, first check the fan blade for obstructions. Next, try turning the fan motor blade by hand. If the blade does not spin freely, replace the condenser fan motor. If no obstructions are present and the fan blade spins freely, use a multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor does not have continuity, replace it

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So I've checked everything that I can see when I open the panel on the back. The fan runs, and the condenser runs in short burst. It sounds like it it trying to get there and then stoos. The condenser runs for approx 5-8 seconds and stops.

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it sounds like your compressor start relay device or compressor went out.

There are two ways to check it, unplug your refrigerator, take it off from the side of your compressor, shake it, if it rattles inside, its bad. If it doesn't rattle, then you use a multimeter to ohm test it for continuity, normal would be 0-12 ohms.

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Did you solve this, Kevin?

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We had a similar issue with a newer French door Whirlpool fridge. On two separate events, a power outage seemed to trigger the fan and compressor cycling on and off.

Finally concluded that the middle drawer is isolated and has air input and removal ducts. The air removal duct is at the upper left at the back. If you have things stacked up on the left side of the drawer and the fridge does a self-test upon starting up, it seems that the airflow can be restricted enough to be considered a failure—even though it was operating fine before the power outage.

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@Robert Simms This is what happened to us! Power went out and all of a sudden top fridge wasn’t cooling properly. Life saver!

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I recently had this happen on my parents fridge! It was a setting in that weird little touch screen that they have. I accidentally bumped up against it and it stopped cooling. After tons of searching for the manual I found one here: http://www.kitchenaid.com/digitalassets/... . Look on page 5 of this manual for the operation of the touch screen. In the touch screen controls there is a way to turn on and off the cooling. I don't know if this is the same problem you are having but I hope this helps!!

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This saved me $65 dollars thanks

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Whirlpool refrigerator won't get cold what's the problem

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Thank you, saved my marriage

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It works!!! Thank you very much!!!

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It is 3:30am and I am almost in tears because of ‘refrigerator not cooling’. I had imagined all kinds of $$ and spoiled food before I could pack up freezer and take to my Son’s house.

YOUR SOLUTION WAS SO SIMPLE AND COMMON SENSE!!! Thank You So Very Much! This should be at very beginning of troubleshooting section. THANK YOU !!

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Hi @ Michael Morabito,

If the compressor is running and the evaporator unit in the freezer compartment is not getting icy cold and the condenser coils are not getting warm to hot then there is a problem with the sealed system.

It could be a faulty compressor (even though the compressor motor is running), a blockage in the sealed system or a lack of refrigerant due to a leak (are there any signs of an oily substance below the compressor or the condenser coils?)

Depending on the age of your unit, most manufacturers give a 5 year warranty on the sealed system including the compressor (but maybe not the labour cost) so check the warranty for your fridge in the user guide that came with the fridge.

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No oily substance up by the compressor ( I have a built in), but noticed a greenish/yellowish liquid on the freezer floor. This was after tech installed new compressor and added coolant, which the leaked out. The new compressor ran continuously for a couple of days then died. Tech did not detect coolant leak before replacing compressor.

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Hi,

You may have to get the tech back out.

Did the tech check the pressures (high and low) in the sealed system after installing the new compressor and adding refrigerant?

Initially running continuously for a few days (or seeming to- there is an auto defrost cycle every 8-12 hours which you may have missed) is understandable as the fridge/freezer have to get back to normal operating temps which can take a while from ambient temp especially with normal usage as well i.e. doors opening etc.

If the compressor has died after it had been replaced there should be a guarantee on the repair/compressor etc.

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@Julia Soussi ,

What is the model number of the fridge?

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Hi @ejvds,

What is the make and model number of the fridge?

Can you hear if the evaporator fan located behind a panel inside the freezer compartment is running?

You may have to place your ear next to the fridge to hear it.

It will stop when a door is opened and start again when a door (any door, fridge or freezer) is shut.

If you can't hear it, it may be faulty or iced up.

If it is iced up it may be due to a faulty defrost heater or defrost thermostat or worst case a faulty control board.

Do not confuse it with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the condenser coils and compressor. This fan runs whether the doors are open or shut

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I came from staying away for the night to find my whirlpool refrigerator and freezer both not cold my food is thawing out by the second, it has two double doors for refrigerator and then one pull out drawer on bottom for the freezer I noticed that my motor, fan, nor compressor is coming on but my lights and my touch screen controls are working it just wont kick on and start getting everything cool at all what do I do I think my ice and water filter is bad but that shouldn't control my motor or fan , can it? Someone help me or advice on how to find a repair man in my area?? Thanks

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@Shaina Marie Madden ,

What is the model number of the refrigerator?

Do you know if there was a power outage at your place when you were away? Check any clocks etc to see if they still show the correct time or are "flashing the time" etc.

Try turning off the power to the fridge for 5 minutes and the turning it on again to check if this resets the refrigerator and starts it going again

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My whirlpool side by side is warm in the refridgerator, not freezing in the freezer(just cool) and not making ice. Water is going to the icemaker. The seals for the door are good. I cleaned the coils, reset the refridgerator. Any thoughts to fix this? It’s about 3-4 years old. Model number is WRS325FDAM04. Money is tight, can’t afford a new fridge, any suggestions would be appreciated. My husband is good at figuring things out, but he feels over his head. Help!!!

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Same problem (( milk going bad refrigerator not cold )) looked and the coils on front under doors completely obstructed with lint dust hair… vacuum and removed back cover Freon lines all frozen , after about 15 min everything appears to be back to normal

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My worldpool french door 22cu. Ref.wont cool.but freezer just fine..how do i fix it

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Hi @jimott ,

Here’s a link that may help.

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There is a big model list more recently added as of this posting, manufactured under Whirlpool Brands, that you can find on top-class actions that have a combination of problems from design, manufacturing - parts. I have model # WRX986SIHZ00 French door "dual evaporators" RC not cooling. FC works perfectly. The first place to "START" is the 3-way refrigerant solenoid valve and install a new receiver dryer simultaneously. This 3way valve is part of the sealed refrigerant system. Externally, the solenoid valve slides onto the refrigerant valve that magnetically turns the internal refrigerant valve either to FC or RC, so the refrigerant is directed to each individual evaporator compartment. The internal valve is defective and getting stuck in the wrong position. Currently, there is a back order on a new solenoid and refrigerant valve design. This combination can also cause "electric control boards" to become defective and have to be remanufactured. The manufacturing defrosts defect causes will be no ice cube production, warm in either FC, RC, or both. Ice build-up on RC evaporator middle drawer pushing out from ice build-up etc.

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Im definetly getting no ice cubes being made now. have had issues since the year i bought, how hard is it to replace that refrigerant valve and receiver dryer? Is there a good site to order this? thanks.

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@oilersman without the proper tools and knowledge do not attempt to do this yourself, please. You have to recover the refrigerant, use an oxy acetylene torch to braze in new components, then pressure test to make sure you're good using dry nitrogen, then pull a vacuum on the system. THEN you can recharge the system. You'll have to add some because you will lose a little from recovery. And these systems don't hold alot so an ounce or two missing will cause serious performance issues. The new charge has to be weighed in. Plus, most smaller systems do not have ports built in, so some will have to be added to put gauges on it.

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