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Logitech H800 wireless headset supports 2.4GHz & Bluetooth.

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Loose Charging Port on H800 Headset

Bought this Logitech H800 wireless headset refurbished and it worked well for a year, but now the micro-usb charging port has become loose and needs to be at a precise angle for the headset to charge.

This means I can still charge it if I wrap the cord around it and leave it over night to get the charger sticking in at the right angle, but one of the nicest features was that I could use it plugged in if the battery died and that no longer seems to be an option since I can't get the angle right when it's on my head.

Since it's off warranty, does anyone have advice on trying to correct this issue?

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Well sorta... Not what I originally stated.

Found a new refurb headset was $35 on eBay, and there are now.available micro USB adapters. The adapters come as a.set with a proprietary cable/connector that attaches MAGNETICALLY to the little uUSB plug, which is intended to be left in the phone, headset, or whatever device you are charging. Essentially a retrofit so now my headset is alot like some new phones, where if the cable gets a tug it just snaps away and my device sees no damage. Seemed like a better long-term idea than my previous notion. (but no help for your already damaged uUSB connector).

These magnetic adapters & cables are about $3 on eBay direct from China, prolly get cheaper over time. I have an adapter in all 3 of my micro USB devices now for about a week... Kinda early yet to know if it's a real fix... But seems ok so far.

One caveat I've found buying these magnetic adapters is there is there doesn't appear to be an industry standard on the magnetic connector part, meaning the plugs may only mate to the cable-end from that vendor.

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The location of the screw holes here may help with disassembly.

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Changing the USB connector will require SMT soldering experience and the right equipment.

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I'm wondering if I could replace the micro usb with a usb C connector.

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I am on my third one .. headset works great, use it all day long but after a while the jack gets loose and then won't make the connection... design problem

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In my case the design problem was not with the micro USB connector, but with human factors.

They didn't take into account someone (me) would get out of the car forgetting the headset is still plugged-in.... and yank, duh. I was surprised how many times it survived before becoming intermittent.

But after about a year now using the magnetic adapter/cable retrofit, those problems are over.

But over also is wearing the headset while charging and driving, as the magnetic connector isn't strong enough to hold when moving my head much.

Well at least I'm now I'm finding new ways to break these headsets.... try not to sit on them.

Off topic but... has anyone found a better bluetooth stereo headset WITH a boom-mic than H800?

I ask, as I still get annoyed at the very limited phone controls from headset buttons. Every ear-bud style headset has full controls.

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It can be open and access to USB plug, but you will need tools to unsolder the plug and a replacement.

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I have the same issue, now on both h800's so time to fix rather than keep buying new.

I assume the micro usb jack is only using the 2 power pins (5v & ground), making it a little less challenging.

And as I keep breaking these by getting out of the truck forgetting that it's plugged-in charging, x I need a design that is more forgiving.

I plan to salvage a female micro USB connector from a cable and solder it in with the new jack hanging about 2-3cm out of the headphones on a short stub of cable.

The idea is IF I forget again, at least the pull should be straight out and simply unplug, rather than some angle and break.

Will check back with progress...

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Any progress on this?

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Hey Guys.

My Port broke after like 4 Years now.

I ordered a new "Micro USB 5 Pin Female Connector" from ebay and tried to solder it in .But my soldering equipment is too big for this micro soldering.Also a magnifying Glass could be needed... ;) So i wasnt able to solder all the 5 pins on the board without soldering them together.Now i bend the 3 middle pins of the connector up and just soldered the both pins on the outside .Which should be 5v and ground right? I tried to charge it.The Led shows the charging animation ,slow orange blinking led light.Sometime it shows the charging led in just green and blinks quicker.When i unplug it and switch it on off ,then plug it back in it shows the right charging animation again.After 2 hours of charging i tested it.But after 5min i got the low battery chiming.Anyone know what could be wrong here? Is it charging to slow? Do some of the other pins need to be bridged maybe?I saw something like that on elsewhere.

Maybe someone can help :)

Greets and sorry for my spelling im not a native english speaker!

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Patrick, I would think if the engineers wanted several adjacent pins connected they would have done so on the circuit board.

If you have access to a voltmeter,

should measure ~5v pins 1 to 5 with charger plugged in.

If the charging LED continues constantly when moving the cable... it would appear you have fixed the USB connector issue. Battery might be more suspect than charging circuitry.

You could consult the user manual for LED blink patterns...

BTW, your english is indistinghable from native.

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Hello. I just bought a new Logitech H800. It had no instructions with it. While charging it must the headset be turned off or leave it on?

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Check out here: https://support.logi.com/hc/en-us/articl...

Should have quick start Guide.

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I have just fixed the problem in mine, I have a few observations. Of course, do it only if you know what you do, I do not take any responsibility if you mess up your headset/fry your computer etc.

Replacing the whole port might be counterproductive: most likely it gets broken off the board, like mine did, so it might be still in good shape. If so, it is much easier just to resolder the pins. Of course, if they are broken off or bent badly, orif the plastic part is damaged, it will not work.

The main problem is this: the port consists of a rather sturdy metal support, which is solidly mounted on the board. However, within it is a plastic part, which contains the plug/board pins. The issue is that the metal support holds the plastic part only with a kind of a bent metal tab, which in time gets bent off. Curiously, it seems it is much worse to push the USB plug with too much force than to pull it. If the tab is loose, then all that holds the plastic part is the solder, which understandably might break off quite easily if the connector is yanked.


To fix it, you need a VERY good magnifying lens or other means of magnification. I have used a cheap USB 40-1000x ‘microscope’ (just a webcam, really). A solder gun with a very fine tip would be quite useful, too, I managed with a regular one. I would say that a well-regulated solder gun is essential, I worked at 260 C. If you get it too hot, the plastic will melt and then it is game over - it is quite difficult to operate at that scale.

Soldering just the two external pins seems to have worked, although the DATA pins also have traces on the board (to some pots?). If you get lucky, it might be that what is left of the solder on the board/pin would be sufficient to remake the connection. It worked for one of my pins: I have put a good amount of flux on the pin, heated it up and it nicely reconnected. Of course, I expect it will be somewhat weaker. On the other side I had to put a tiny, and I mean, REALLY tiny amount of solder to make the connection. Make sure you do not bridge the pins, you might fry your USB computer/charging port and/or the headset!


What I did not do and I wish I did: I should have fixed better the plastic part to the metal mount, but I am not sure yet how. Still, I will avoid charging the set while I am using it…

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