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Why does my microwave not heat up food?

My microwave turns on and runs,display is fine,timer and all works but it just don't heat up anything!

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I have a Kenmore microwave 790.83337710. Lights, timer, display all work. When i push start it sounds like it working but the turntable doesn't move and it doesn't heat. What da ya think?

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joshua, for the longest time the consensus on iFixit is to replace the whole unit. Microwave ovens generate high voltages and dangerous amounts of radio-frequency radiation. Attempting to repair one is NOT for the amateur. I advise recycling it and getting a new one. On the flipside of this, you may just give us the serial number and we can try to find a common simple problem, but anything above that, you should leave to a professional.

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302ta00882 kenmore just wondered if it was a fuse

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Joshua my microwave looking good what do you suggest? when it is just not heating everything else looks good

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970C85342310 not heating even water

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690O1X2265-001435 Kenmore doesn't work no lights nothing already replaced plug not entire pigtail

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I have a Kenmore microwave 709.80333310 that I bought new and have used about two months. Lights, timer, display all work. When i push start it sounds like it working but the turntable doesn't move and it doesn't heat. What da ya think?

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I received a microwave to repair and resell a few months ago with the identical problem. Everything worked except that it refused to heat, so the problem was obviously not the ceramic fuse(s) hidden inside microwave ovens. I removed the outer cover, shorted the super capacitor so I wouldn't get zapped, and proceeded to investigate. I did go ahead and check the fuse just for the heck of it, but if it had been blown the microwave would have been totally dead. No lights, no nuthin'. I noticed that there were 3 micro safety switches on the door latch assembly. Upon testing each, I discovered that the top two were working just fine, but the third one at the bottom was not working. I proceeded to replace it with a like switch that I had salvaged from another appliance, tested the oven, and it has since worked perfectly.

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Where is the door latch assembly

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Directly inside the control panel where the latching hooks on the door enter the panel.

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It baffles me that the electronics can be working but a broken door switch somehow prevents the microwave from heating. How do you test a micro safety switch, with a multimeter?

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Could you send me a picture of what to look for? I have the same problem. Model 970C8533310

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I hired a repairman who told me the same thing. Too expensive to repair....just buy a new one....is this the only solution? Isn't there enough waste? The oven was manufactured in 2006!

Jim T.

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Yes there is and you are right, but if not done right those things can do you harm. Do the risk outweigh the benefits? What microwave do you have and what does it do. Lets keep it academic and see if we could find a hypothetical solution to your microwaves issue.

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Kenmore model# 72179209010 serial #010TA01435 Doesnt work no light no timer or button beep already changed plug not entire pigtail

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You are quite right it seems that they don't want you to fix things anymore. The switch's that make up these interlocks are simple and cheap but once you put an appliance part number on them a $2 micro switch becomes a $56 interlock switch. Find someone with a good junk box and buy them a case of beer . On mine the switch was simple I have several old ones but after several years the mounting plastic is falling apart I have to get creative but Im sure it will work the old switch was defiantly defective but the bracket is going to need some extra work. selfpg@telus.net

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i have kenmore elite microwave

i change already the fuse but cannot heat what is the problem

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First, put your nose to work. Sniff around the control panel. If it smells like burned electronics, the unit is done. If it doesn't smell, then it could be one of the door safety switches, or the super capacitor could be dead.

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@Nancy Perez ,

You need to check that the door interlock switches are OK.

There are 3 of them part 41,42 &43.

They are the safety switches on the oven to ensure that the door is properly closed when the oven is started.

Do all testing with the oven totally disconnected from the power.

Even then it is not safe as the HV capacitor needs to be discharged correctly as it has enough power (>6000V) stored in it to either seriously injure or even kill you. This power can stay there for weeks so disconnecting the mains supply is not enough.

Also the “common” method of discharging the capacitor by placing a screwdriver across the terminals may not be too safe either as you need to use an appropriately sized driver. One too small can result in it literally welding across the terminals and possibly causing flash burns in the process.

The safest way is to use a 10M Ohm 10W resistor and use a lead and clips to connect it between the +ve terminal of the capacitor and the oven chassis to discharge the capacitor. This takes a 5-10 minutes and then short circuit the capacitor terminals to make doubly sure that it has fully discharged, but people are impatient and try to take the short way out

Microwave ovens are extremely dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing. Call an expert instead.

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joshua estará eternamente agradecido.
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