Check for the KNOX flag and you’ll know if your son messed with it in ways that may be hard to recover from. You can check for the 0x1 flag (tampered) by going into OS Download mode by using these instructions. If your son DID root the tablet, you’re in the dog house if she uses it for work and has to have the 0x0 flag - it erases the encryption key used by the KNOX workspace and disables the feature permanently as it’s an eFuse. In the past it could be reset with JTAG, but most people on this site would make things worse if they did try and reset the eFuse over JTAG. You can’t use Triangle Away anymore. Triangle Away hasn’t worked since 4.3 due to KNOX being baked in, not bolted on.

The other indicator (easier for end users) is if you get the custom triangle at boot - this WILL get you into trouble since she will see it as it comes up at boot persistently. If you're worried she will not take it well, my best advice is bribery. Pay her off to cover the cost to put the fire out early, and make that one disappear after she forgets about it unless its work issued and not a BYOD situation -- technically you could argue since it was paid for you insured it and took ownership in a way. Better to pay her off if 0x1 is triggered then deal with the aftermath since it's a permanent death to KNOX. Been there (not with girlfriends, thankfully) in the past. I pay them off, keep the device until they forget I broke it and make it disappear. With phones, my approach is rather than find out they unlocked it and I made the unlocked one disappear is to buy a US unlocked SKU of the same phone (if available, otherwise I'll get the code) and unlock it and tell them I did it to "make up for it" (aka I'm not chancing it).

If it’s just black, you need to do additional troubleshooting. If it’s a cracked screen, you can find a Google FRP donor to get the part from and fix the tablet that way.

@shumitariq iFixit does not do repair and thus you cannot get a quote on here. What iFixit does offer is guidance so you can attempt your own repairs. So, try this:

The data back has a mode select button. Press it and you will go to a series of modes.

The time is controlled by a quartz clock driven from the battery so you need to make sure that your cameras battery is working properly. You can step thru the display setting to proper date, or you can set the data function to OFF shown by the ------- symbol. Check to see if it is set to OFF, if so nothing will imprint.

Hi @evansiii ,

Try a reset and see if this resolves the problem.

Here’s the procedure:

Turn the camera off and then on again (slide the lens cover closed and then open).

Remove the batteries for approx.15 minutes and then reinstall them.

If you are using an AC power adapter, unplug the adapter from the camera, remove the batteries and then reinstall them after 15 minutes, and then plug the adapter in.

If it works, you will have to reset the date and time after this

@etjonesats61686 the only way to repair this is by replacing the LCD screen. The real problem is going to finding a replacement screen. It will be difficult because of the age of the camera. I would keep my eyes open for a donor camera from either Ebay or pawnshops, Craigslist, swap meets etc. There are no guidance but the principle for replacing the screen is similar to all PhotoSmart camera. Look through the guides like this one HP Photosmart 935 Repair then see if you can apply some of those things to your camera. take your time, don't force anything and just remain organized. You got this!

Remember you can always take pictures and post those with your Question. that way we cna see what you see and hopefully help you if you get stuck Agregar imágenes a una pregunta existente

While you work on your camera, take lots of pictures. Once you are done with it, take those pictures and create a guide for iFixit. That will help the next person that has the same problem as you do. It's easy and fun to create these guides. https://ifixit.com/Guide/new The iFixit community will appreciate this.

Hi,

Try taping over the glass before removal with packing tape (example only), so that it is held in one piece when you are removing the screen assembly.

Just a thought

With MacOS, that generally does work and you don’t need to mess with anything. That being said, there’s usually some performance issue that practically forces you to wipe the machine and restart if things are too different. I don’t think you’ll have any in your case since you’re upgrading to the i7/16GB motherboard.

See if you can boot it up as-is and figure out if you have any crippling performance issues - if you do not, run it on the old installation. If you do, backup your files and start over from scratch.

It looks like a RAM or motherboard issue (likely the soldered RAM if it’s the motherboard). To rule out the removable module and isolate it to the motherboard, remove the memory module from the machine and see if the problem persists. The symptom you are seeing is typical of how they fail when the RAM or hard drive goes. Faulty RAM can cause this exact fault - it’s less common, but it happens. The same thing sometimes happens with a partially dead hard drive.

If it turns out to be the hard drive, it’s difficult to find a spinning replacement since these machines are capped at 128GB (24-bit LBA) and use IDE (obsolete; small drives went out of production years and years ago). If the hard drive is bad, this is brutally difficult to replace so consider it a weekend project. The LBA issue was solved with the iBook G4, but that doesn’t help you with your specific system. Should you need to replace it, you can get away with a 64GB drive (MacOS 8/9 only) or 128GB for OS X (or a MacOS 8/9+ OS X dual boot) without much trouble. You MUST use an IDE adapter to put it in this notebook.

As far as getting an RCA cable goes it's just a 3.5mm TRRS R/W/Y cable in all honestly. Those are plentiful online, but not really available in Retail because you will only find cables used by the majority. The problem with these non Apple cables is you may find you need to play with the jack placement a little depending on the wiring. This is an online only part since it’s only useful for legacy equipment not used by the majority. If you insist on the Apple cable, this is what it looks like.

Hi @shenlun ,

The ifixit bits all seem to be 4mm hex bits, so if your tools accept this type and size they should be OK.

Click on Store > Tools > Toolkits at the top of this page, to see what type, size etc of bits are available in each kit.

How do I get the phone working for data recovery?

This is for my former LG G4 509K phone, but the same procedure usually does the trick on LG phones. Way more often then not, the issue on phones like the G3 and G4 is bad solder joints. If you can open the phone and reflow it, this will get it going again for data recovery purposes ONLY. Once the board craps out, the phone is as good as dead once you get your data off. It must be condemned, replaced and erased once you get your stuff off. If you can, please brand it so someone knows it’s a data recovery job that won’t last long. I would assume a phone like that *may* be a data recovery job, but that’s because I know certain IMEI ranges are known to fail and I’d be leery of such work.

My way of doing it isn’t for the feint of heart, but it saved me from having to worry about having a backup since I salvaged the data on the actual phone I cared about. Since you only get a couple tries before the phone isn’t recoverable, grab the data you must have and leave anything you don’t need behind.

Fuser is worn out or you’re using an old toner cartridge. Since you’ve already tried 2 carts, it is probably a bad fuser.

Sadly, this part was made obsolete many years ago so you need to buy a rebuilt one and it may be as much as a whole new printer :-(. Unless it’s one of the few low page count ones left, this may not be worth pursuing further. Since these are so old, find out how many pages it has logged and make the call yourself (this is more easily said then done without the Ethernet card. This will be a pain to do without an old Serial Mac with OS8/9). If it’s high mileage (200k+), expect to need to change out a *lot* more then just the fuser; this may total it out. Watch this video to see how to do the fuser swap.

If the printer is totaled out due to the page count or parts cost, find a LJ 4250/4300 (11x17 compatible 4200 series). It’s much newer and it carries the million page endurance of the 4000 series but you need to replace the plastic swing plate gear (or assembly) as it has a tendency to wear out earlier then the rest of the printer. If you don’t want to do that job, Printer Techs sells them with the replacement gear done for you but their repaired printers are pricey compared to others who ignore the problem. That said, these pre-2007 machines are so much better then the more modern ones because they don’t have as many electronic failures as the new ones. These old printers are the last of their kind.