Repara tus cosas Comunidad Tienda

Sustitución del conjunto de la PCB del botón superior del Logitech G700s

Aviso: Ahora estás editando un requisito previo de la guía que estabas viendo. Cualquier cambio que realices afectará a todas las 2 guías que incluyen este paso.

Volver a la Guía
Inglés
Español
Siguiente paso

Traduciendo paso 1

Paso 1
Logitech G700s Top Button PCB Assembly Replacement: paso 0, imagen 1 de 3 Logitech G700s Top Button PCB Assembly Replacement: paso 0, imagen 2 de 3 Logitech G700s Top Button PCB Assembly Replacement: paso 0, imagen 3 de 3

  • Desolder the header pins. Desolder while the screws and mounting hardware in the next two steps are still attached, so the board is more stable.

  • Pay attention to the plastic parts near the header. Find a comfortable position where your iron isn't likely to come into contact with the plastic parts, as they will melt if the iron comes into contact with them.

  • Use plenty of flux. I find engineer SS-02 solder sucker to be much less frustrating to use, since its cylinder has O-ring seals and pulls a good suction. It also has a flexible heat resistant tip that allows you to press it against the PCB and the iron.

  • Look straight down and check that there most of the solder between the pin and the sidewall is removed. Push each pin sideways to make sure it is detached.

  • If there are still significant amount of solder, reheat the joint and try sucking again.

  • If it looks mostly clear but the pin is still attached, try pushing the pin to the opposite wall (where it is clearly detached) with a moderate amount of force. (Do not force it too much though or you risk damaging the through hole plating)

  • If it doesn't budge with a moderate amount of force, try using the iron to push on the pin the same way. If it attaches to another part, then the solder isn't sucked up enough.

  • Optionally, you may want to mod the PCB to use a socket to connect between the top and bottom, so it will be easier to access in the future. You will need to replace or cut short the header pins. It uses 2.0mm pitch 2x7 headers. There is approximately 7.2mm between the boards. I used Molex 87758-1450 pins and Amphenol 63453-114LF socket.

Desuelda los pines del cabezal. Desuelda mientras los tornillos y el hardware de montaje en los siguientes dos pasos aún están colocados, para que la placa sea más estable.

Presta atención a las piezas de plástico cerca del encabezado. Encuentra una posición cómoda en la que no sea probable que la plancha entre en contacto con las piezas de plástico, ya que se derretirán si la plancha entra en contacto con ellas.

Usa mucho fundente. Considero que el succionador de soldadura del ingeniero SS-02 es mucho menos frustrante de usar, ya que su cilindro tiene juntas tóricas y genera una buena succión. También tiene una punta flexible resistente al calor que le permite presionarla contra la PCB y la plancha.

Mira directamente hacia abajo y verifica que se haya eliminado la mayor parte de la soldadura entre el pin y la pared lateral. Empuja cada pasador hacia los lados para asegurarte de que se suelte.

Si todavía hay una cantidad significativa de soldadura, vuelve a calentar la unión e intenta aspirar nuevamente.

Si se ves casi transparente pero el pasador aún está conectado, intenta empujar el pasador hacia la pared opuesta (donde está claramente desprendido) con una cantidad moderada de fuerza. (Sin embargo, no lo fuerces demasiado o corres el riesgo de dañar el revestimiento del orificio pasante)

Si no se mueve con una cantidad moderada de fuerza, intenta usar la plancha para empujar el pasador de la misma manera. Si se adhiere a otra parte, entonces la soldadura no se succiona lo suficiente.

Si deseas modificar la PCB para poder usar un enchufe que conecte la parte superior e inferior, para que sea más fácil de acceder en el futuro. Deberás reemplazar o acortar los pines del cabezal. Utiliza encabezados de 2x7 de paso de 2,0 mm. Hay aproximadamente 7,2 mm entre las tablas. Yo usé pines Molex 87758-1450 y enchufe Amphenol 63453-114LF.

[* red] Desolder the header pins. Desolder while the screws and mounting hardware in the next two steps are still attached, so the board is more stable.
[* icon_caution] Pay attention to the plastic parts near the header. Find a comfortable position where your iron isn't likely to come into contact with the plastic parts, as they will melt if the iron comes into contact with them.
- [* icon_note] Use plenty of flux. I find engineer SS-02 solder sucker to be much less frustrating to use, since its cylinder has O-ring seals and pulls a good suction. It also has a flexible heat resistant tip that allows you to press it against the PCB and the iron.
+ [* icon_note] Use plenty of flux. I find engineer SS-02 [product|IF145-473|solder sucker] to be much less frustrating to use, since its cylinder has O-ring seals and pulls a good suction. It also has a flexible heat resistant tip that allows you to press it against the PCB and the iron.
[* green] Look straight down and check that there most of the solder between the pin and the sidewall is removed. Push each pin sideways to make sure it is detached.
[* icon_note] If there are still significant amount of solder, reheat the joint and try sucking again.
[* green] If it looks mostly clear but the pin is still attached, try pushing the pin to the opposite wall (where it is clearly detached) with a moderate amount of force. (Do not force it too much though or you risk damaging the through hole plating)
[* green] If it doesn't budge with a moderate amount of force, try using the iron to push on the pin the same way. If it attaches to another part, then the solder isn't sucked up enough.
[* black] Optionally, you may want to mod the PCB to use a socket to connect between the top and bottom, so it will be easier to access in the future. You will need to replace or cut short the header pins. It uses 2.0mm pitch 2x7 headers. There is approximately 7.2mm between the boards. I used Molex 87758-1450 pins and Amphenol 63453-114LF socket.

Tus contribuciones son autorizadas bajo la licencia de código abierto de Creative Commons.