Introducción
Si todo en tu iPod funciona excepto los controles, es posible que necesites una rueda de clic nueva. Reemplazar la rueda de clic es una reparación económica pero delicada.
Qué necesitas
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Usa una pistola de calor para ablandar el adhesivo debajo del marco de plástico en la parte inferior del iPod.
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Usa una herramienta de abertura de plástico para hacer palanca en el bisel de la carcasa del iPod y retíralo.
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Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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14 comentarios
I just replaced the click wheel on my iPod Nano 5th Gen and I found that this guide could be better. The reason is that the bottom edge of the click wheel is held in place by the same metal bracket that surrounds the connector port at the bottom of the iPod. So, before you remove the click wheel I recommend performing the following three steps:
1. Remove the plastic cover at the bottom of the iPod
2. Unscrew the two screws on either side of the connector port. Of the three screws at the bottom of the iPod, these are the middle and right hand screws as you look at the front of the iPod.
3. Remove the metal bracket that surrounds the connector port of the iPod.
After replacing the click wheel, perform the above three steps in reverse order. Make sure that when the metal bracket is re-inserted that it secures the click wheel and prevents it from falling out as some people have experienced after replacing the click wheel.
I discovered the same solution after having destroyed one wheel by trying to pry it out without taking out that bottom bezel.That should definitely be the first step in this guide.
PLEASE READ slith's comment, it's extremely important, or you will not be able to get the click wheel installed. There are notches on the click wheel that have to go in at the top and bottom, but the bottom notch is PART OF THE GREY METAL BRACKET that you take out of the bottom of the iPod. DO NOT re-install the grey bracket at the bottom until you have installed the replacement click wheel, otherwise the wheel will not go in.
Thanks slith, I just wanted to emphasize this because I screwed up quite a few of these click wheels before I read your comment.
no way -
When you have removed the wheel please be carfull NOT to lose the verry small spring from a black plastic part in the center of the board, I DID
i agree with that. at step 5 when lifting the click wheel, have a look at the small black bar, placed to the upper edge of the chip. in its center it holds a very small tiny coil spring thats hardly to see and that easily jumps out. better you lift the click wheel in parallel to the ground. if spring jumps off one time, you will never find it again. i guess it has some grounding purpose as it docks on the metal below the logic on the click wheel. also a point to have an eye on at reassembly.
Thanks guys for the comments.
I did not understand why it was necessary to remove the bottom bezel and plate since in the teardown guide on this site they just seem to pop the click wheel off. I am guessing that the latter represents the first attempt at this procedure and it was changed (as above) following your very helpful comments. (Although Hot Air gun - really?).
I will also watch for the dreaded small spring - exactly the type of thing that would drive me nuts if discovered loose or lost.
Final part of the procedure would be to separate the click wheel from its cover. Hope this is easy and just involves trying not to break any tabs or messing up the alignment.
PS. Learnt a new word: spudger.
I did all the steps, replaced the click wheel with a new one, now the buttons are all working again. however, now the scrolling does not work anymore... but it did with the old one. any solution?
Same here! I replaced it and now the scrolling doesn’t work. Did you find a solution?
Tzippy -
If that plastic piece of that spring comes out where do I put them back in at
It is obvious that the writer has not performed this repair. I recommend ifixit remove this repair guide before others ruin their iPod using it. Also, I do not know if Apple made a mid-production change, but the photo in Step 3 does not correspond with my 5gen nano iPods. The hole used to disengage the wheel with a sparger does not exist in my iPods.
I tried this and without Slith corrections this would have been a disaster. I recommend also to take pictures as you take it apart, there is a certain way to reinstall the wheel and the connectors. You may break those small plastic post holders in the wheel, I almost did. Finally, unglue the wheel use a little bit of heat. I did not come across a plastic spring? Again it doesn’t correspond on certain things. Take your time. Re-gluing needs to be done for the plastic bezel..
