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Introducción

Follow the steps in this guide to replace an aging battery in an iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

  1. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge for two minutes.
  2. Apply a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.
    • Apply a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.

    • Depending on the age of your device, this may be difficult. If you have trouble, apply more heat and try again.

    • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

  3. While holding the glass up with the suction cup, insert the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than 2 mm into the side of the display. Inserting the pick deeper than 2 mm could damage the backlight assembly, LCD display, or touchscreen.
    • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, insert the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than 2 mm into the side of the display. Inserting the pick deeper than 2 mm could damage the backlight assembly, LCD display, or touchscreen.

    “Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.”

    Unfortunately, you only know you have inserted it too far when you have, and you start seeing little bubble veins form between the glass screen and the LCD.

    The adhesive can be very stiff/hard, and if pushing through it can result in the pick plunging into the LCD when the adhesive finally gives way.

    Take your time, use alot of heat, and if you need to try and push the pick in, try and do so in a slicing motion along the edge, use the wide edge, or hold the pick so that your finger will hit the edge of the screen before the pick tip will pass the bezel.

    lucanos - Contestar

    Adhesive strips are only 1mm wide on sides. Up to 5mm wide top and bottom. I used the Isclack. Screen seemed ok bending without breaking. Worth looking for a photo of the replacement adhesive strips so you know what you have to separate. Be extra careful at the lower right corner where the cables are.

    ian cheong - Contestar

    This is a failure of a guide as it doesn’t tell you to insert at a downward angle so you don’t potrude into the LCD… Now I have to spend more money to replace the screen as I pushed adhesive between the LCD and the screen even though I went no farther than a millimeter short of the screen...

    Alec - Contestar

    can you open the right side if the left is too cracked to use a suction cup on?

    clark overhiser - Contestar

    This guide needs amending urgently.

    You MUST NOT put the pick or whatever you are using more than 2mm under the sides of the screen, or you will cut through the adhesive tape securing the backlight assembly to the LCD glass.

    This will push adhesive into the viewable area of the LCD and cause the backlight assembly to no longer be secured against the LCD fully.

    I now need a new screen.

    This line below from the guide is absolutely INCORRECT and will ruin your expensive display:

    ”Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display.”

    The black bezel is 5mm to 6mm wide; you MUST NOT insert anything to that depth or you will destroy your display. 2mm maximum!

    jamesqb2001 - Contestar

    thanks. will take this into account for my repair

    Adab Abu -

    A few thoughts after opening a number of Mini 4’s.

    1) if the display is warm enough you can squeeze the digitizer and LCD back together after a minor incursion with the opening pick and it will reseal.

    2) I’ve started going in at the top just to the right of the camera (I use an iFlex to get in then switch to a pick). Then I run down either side with my fingers choked up on the pick so there only a mm or 2 sticking out. Usually after running down one side, I can get the display open enough to get the pick in behind the LCD when I do the other side

    Stow - Contestar

  4. Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the left edge for a few minutes.
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the left edge for a few minutes.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    If your iPad is cold, consider leaving the iOpener on for longer than 5 minutes. The aluminum housing is a very large thermally dissipating mass and will quickly cool off the glass and make you have to start over and wait the 10 minutes to reheat. There’s a very slim window in which you’re able to insert the pick into the glass adhesive before it solidifies once again. I’ve been fighting with it for like 20 minutes following these instructions and it’s not working. You really need to leave it for longer than just 5 minutes to get the back housing hot too.

    Chris Storer - Contestar

  5. Insert a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.
    • Insert a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.

    I have found that wedging a blue pry tool in between the frame and the glass can give you a better edge enough to slide the pick in.

    Chris Storer - Contestar

  6. Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
    • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

  7. Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
    • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

  8. Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

  9. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
    • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

  10. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera. As you reach the front-facing camera, pull the pick out slightly and continue sliding it across the top edge. Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

    • As you reach the front-facing camera, pull the pick out slightly and continue sliding it across the top edge.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

  11. Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive. Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
    • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

    • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

    • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

  12. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
    • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

  13. Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
    • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

  14. Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  15. Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary. Be careful not to slice too deep near the bottom right corner, or you risk damaging the display cable. Be careful not to slice too deep near the bottom right corner, or you risk damaging the display cable.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary.

    • Be careful not to slice too deep near the bottom right corner, or you risk damaging the display cable.

  16. Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
    • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

    • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

    • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

  17. Insert a new opening pick at the bottom right corner of the display, below the last opening pick you used to slice down the right edge. Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device. Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device.
    • Insert a new opening pick at the bottom right corner of the display, below the last opening pick you used to slice down the right edge.

    • Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device.

  18. Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button. Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button.
    • Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button.

  19. Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one. Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one.
    • Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one.

  20. Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad. Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad.
    • Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad.

  21. Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button. Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button. Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button.
    • Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button.

  22. Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad to break up the last of the adhesive holding the display assembly in place. Lift the display from the top edge to open the device. Lift the display from the top edge to open the device.
    • Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad to break up the last of the adhesive holding the display assembly in place.

    • Lift the display from the top edge to open the device.

  23. To avoid stressing any cables, hold the display assembly perpendicular to the body of the iPad until it is disconnected.
    • To avoid stressing any cables, hold the display assembly perpendicular to the body of the iPad until it is disconnected.

    • Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws over the battery/display connector bracket.

    What you need to do is move the display inboard up to the edge area of battery! That will relieve all the stress on the cables. Simply holding it straight up is not enough, especially later when you go back to reconnect the cables and the bracket over the connectors.

    Fixrights - Contestar

  24. Remove the battery/display cable bracket.
    • Remove the battery/display cable bracket.

    Your bracket may look different to this. Mine had a black covering on the long edge being held between the fingers in this illustration. Same screws, same position, just a different color.

    lucanos - Contestar

    Is it the end of the world if the bracket is not reinstalled, will the device function normally or will it eventually have issues with the connectors coming loose following shock?

    Thomas Langford - Contestar

    Note that the left had side of the bracket hooks under a lip on the edge of the case. Always recommend to replace connector brackets. If you forget and leave it out, best to buy a new set of adhesive strips for the day when the connector comes loose.

    cheongi - Contestar

  25. When disconnecting any press connectors from the logic board, be sure to lift the connector straight up to avoid ripping the socket off the board. Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board.
    • When disconnecting any press connectors from the logic board, be sure to lift the connector straight up to avoid ripping the socket off the board.

    • Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery connector ribbon cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact and powering on the iPad.

    When i was starting to disconnect the lcd to the board i hit the black film and it lit and now even the new display wont display anything how to fix it? The black film near the lcd connector.

    tyroon_jul27 - Contestar

  26. Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector from its socket on the logic board. When reconnecting these, press down from one end of the connector to the other. If you press in the middle of the connector, you may bend it, causing damage or a poor connection.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • When reconnecting these, press down from one end of the connector to the other. If you press in the middle of the connector, you may bend it, causing damage or a poor connection.

  27. Remove the display assembly.
    • Remove the display assembly.

    • To reinstall your display assembly, you will need to replace the display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.

    Ich habe eine Bücherstütze benutzt um das Display in senkrechter Position zu halten, während ich die vier Schräubchen gelöst habe.. So zieht man nicht so an den Flexkabeln….!

    Fridtjof Schüssler - Contestar

  28. Reheat your iOpener.
    • Reheat your iOpener.

    • Lay the iPad face down on your work surface and place the iOpener on the rear case, where the lower edge of the battery is.

    • Wait about two minutes before moving on to the next step to ensure the adhesive holding the battery to the rear case is adequately softened.

    Use blow dryer on low instead. Much easier and much faster.

    Fixrights - Contestar

  29. In the following steps you will be cutting the adhesive under the battery, and prying it off of the rear case.
    • In the following steps you will be cutting the adhesive under the battery, and prying it off of the rear case.

    • The adhesive is laid out as shown in this image: two strips along the long edges, and two shorter strips perpendicular in the center.

    • To avoid damaging the battery, use plastic tools, heat, and patience. Do not puncture, bend, or overheat the battery.

    • Do not pry near the logic board, you could damage your iPad.

    • If you are performing this procedure on the Wi-Fi version, it is safe to insert pry tools from the upper, lower, and left edges of the battery. For the LTE version, only pry from the lower and left edges to avoid damaging other components.

    The only tape adhesive kit that iFixit sells is incomplete for the cellular model. The are five extra small pieces of tape that go inboard around the cellular antenna. You will need to request another tape kit from iFixit, like I recently did, to cut custom pieces for that section. Amazingly I got pushback on that and was told that their kit is correct for the cellular model too, even after showing clear and obvious closeup photos of the leftover adhesive in those sections. That’s inexcusable for a repair site!

    Fixrights - Contestar

    In general the tape of the battery to open is more work and need more head the the Display. The Headsink of the backhousing and batterie itself is big.. I in the end used an big hot air dryer to heat up the backside of the Pad!!

    Fridtjof Schüssler - Contestar

  30. Insert the corner of a plastic card between the lower end of the battery and the rear case. Press the card until approximately an inch and a half is underneath the battery.
    • Insert the corner of a plastic card between the lower end of the battery and the rear case.

    • Press the card until approximately an inch and a half is underneath the battery.

  31. Insert a second plastic card between the battery and first card, this time with the card edge parallel to the battery. Again, press the card in until about an inch and a half is underneath the battery.
    • Insert a second plastic card between the battery and first card, this time with the card edge parallel to the battery.

    • Again, press the card in until about an inch and a half is underneath the battery.

  32. Insert a third plastic card between the first and second ones, this time aligned with the left edge of the battery. Continue to cut the adhesive under the battery until the battery is freed. Reheat and reapply your iOpener when prying becomes difficult. Be sure to wait for the iOpener to cool between sessions.
    • Insert a third plastic card between the first and second ones, this time aligned with the left edge of the battery.

    • Continue to cut the adhesive under the battery until the battery is freed.

    • Reheat and reapply your iOpener when prying becomes difficult. Be sure to wait for the iOpener to cool between sessions.

    The iopener kit only includes 2 cards

    William Wells - Contestar

    That’s what old credit cards are for.

    ian cheong - Contestar

    the kit still has only 2 cards. 03/2020

    Adab Abu - Contestar

  33. Remove the battery.
    • Remove the battery.

    • When you install a replacement battery, be sure to check that the battery connector can reach the logic board before you glue the battery in place.

    Reassembling it is not simply a matter of following the reverse of the disassembly instructions. You need to clean off all the adhesive tape pieces and residue. That is by far the most time consuming and potentially damaging part of this job. The adhesive will be very difficult to get off in some places. I use a combination of blow dryer with low heat, the pointed end if the plastic prying stick to rub it off, chiseled cut pieces of pencil eraser sticks, to rub it down even more, then finally, and very, very carefully, alcohol to get the residue off. Just wet enough on cotton cloth and cotton swabs to wipe but not to have it seep into delicate areas! Rub along and outboard of the edge of the display only to avoid damaging edge. It you don’t remove all the tape pieces and residue and have a clean and level result for the new tape then the display will not only not sit flush like a new iPad but it will not stick well!

    Cellular model users see my important comment about thecelluar model in the beginning of the guide!

    Fixrights - Contestar

    One big hint will be first to fix the batterie connector in the socket before You “drope” the battery in place! The new battery is a little bit smaller and if the battery ist fixed on the bottom, You have no chance to connect the plug without any damaging the socket!!!

    Fridtjof Schüssler - Contestar

    One more hint conerning the tape which fix the Glass in the frame: I used the old tape and looked only that its “nearly undistroyed”.

    A few overstreched pieces i cut away. It works fine!! After fixation in the frame of the Pad I heated up the whole Pad with a Hairdryer and pressed together again! Looks good !

    Thanks general for this Documentation - Evan! ……..

    Fridtjof Schüssler - Contestar

    For those worrying about glue residue, use pure IPA to soften the glue. Makes it very easy to remove. I also get it behind batteries when trying to remove them, they come unstuck much easier

    Tom Millard - Contestar

    You can clearly see there are four pieces of Plastic cards. In the kit there are only two. what would help would be a plastic card that is at least three times longer, so that it can be pressed bellow the battery.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Contestar

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

46 personas más completaron esta guía.

Evan Noronha

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This guide is great for disassembly. I’ve just successfully removed the battery from my device by following these instructions. However, it does not provide any guidance for applying the new adhesive strips before assembling the screen. For that reason, this guide seems incomplete.

Maurice Gordon - Contestar

[can’t edit the guide]

Cleaningoff the old adhesive:

Remove the old adhesive from underside of the glass and the edges of the case. This was the most time consuming part. Took 2-3 hours, because the original adhesive was really gummy and i didn’t want to damage any parts with harsh solvents. (I used a series of methods": citrus oil adhesive remover, methylated spirits, sticky tape stick and lift off.)

Making sure the edges of the glass and case are spotless ensures a good result when applying the new adhesive strips. New strips can be gently applied, peeled back and reapplied to make 100% sure they are in the right place. If adhesive residue is still present the new strips could get stuck in the wrong place and be impossible to reposition.

cheongi - Contestar

[can’t edit the guide]

Reassembly:

Replacement double sided adhesive strips are applied to the case first. Figure which strips go top, bottom and sides. Start with the top or bottom corner. Apply the side strips last so you can figure which side is which.

Make sure the front camera and its window are clean. Use a strong magnifying glass and air duster. You won’t be able to get any dirt out unless you have more adhesive strips to use.

When you are ready to assemble, peel the backing off the double sided adhesive.

Support the screen at 90deg to case. Reattach cable connectors. Attach new battery connector then carefully position new battery with exposed adhesive into position in the case.

Attach connector clamp plate with 4 screws.

Carefully position the screen in case starting from the bottom edge. When it fits all the way around, press firmly round the edges to seal.

cheongi - Contestar

The guide is rated at a medium difficulty, which is out of step with a few iPhone battery replacement guides that are at a hard difficulty. Compared to the iPhone, the iPad is significantly more difficult to service. Even though there are few steps, it’s far easier to damage the device.

Mic Whitehorn-Gillam - Contestar

I’d rate it the hardest repair in earth!

cheongi -

I’d like to chime in an idea when assembling the glass back on. I always like to place it upside down so the glass is on a flat surface. Then press down on the edges of the metal case backing.

This will ensure that you’re not pressing unevenly on the glass when assembling which can sometimes crack it. Possibly not so much with this glass, since it seems to be a little flexible. But I’ve learned the hard way with other devices it’s a bad idea to be pressing on glass. With this method the glass is always on a flat surface and should greatly minimize a possible crack.

Thomas Tommy - Contestar

Hi Thomas, like above written - I used the old Tape and looked that it more or less flat on Glass and the Metal frame then I only soft pressed the glass in the housing and warmed up the “sandwich” again….

But - You are right - only soft and not unevenly…..!

Fridtjof Schüssler -

Really good guide, and make sure you follow it carefully otherwise you’ll damage the device. The part I almost missed was that you should be opening the device at the camera side, and only to 90 degrees before disconnecting the power and display cables.

As noted above above, there are no instructions for the adhesive reassembly, I ended up reusing what was left there, but for the more pedantic types there is a guide to apply new adhesive to the display assembly here.

Also, while I commend iFixit for their efforts to conserve, it feels like pushing products like the “iOpener”, “Spudger” or “iFixit Opening Picks set of 6” seems wasteful. You can easily make a heating pad with some rice and a sock, you will need a guitar pick, and then use some plastic cards. For the spudger use a needle and a small flathead screw driver.

I do recommend getting a set of their tools, if you’re planning on fixing more than one thing, it’s the best way to deal with Apple’s inane attempts to thwart our attempts of fixing things. :)

Gyuri Ordody - Contestar

Starting the removal of the screen in the middle may not be as safe as starting the removal near the top corner. Not sure what caused it (likely I inserted pick too far) but I ended up with small blemish/glue under the screen near the starting point. Thankfully, its minor and barely noticeable after the repair. The hardest part was keeping the data and power cables aligned/attached while re-attaching the plate and 4 tiny screws. But with a little patience, I was able to re-assemble it.

I found no need to clean existing adhesive residue other than just pulling out the old adhesive strips. For the most part, installing the new adhesive strips was actually pretty easy but just a bit tedious. There should be a note about how to re-apply the strips. As long as you are careful with slowly re-applying while pulling off the protective plastic and face them the right way (it would have been nice to have some instructions on this).

In the end, the repair worked went very well and a new battery!

Dana Frost - Contestar

This does look difficult and tedious. Steps showing adhesive removal and re-application would be quite helpful. My iPad mini 4 (A1538) battery is showing signs of age but I think I would wait quite a bit longer based on the riskiness of damage at various stages that I read here. Still, given the cost from Apple ($300) to repair this sucker for me I think I would eventually give it a try regardless, but maybe with the hair dryer method for adhesive softening. Battery replacement cost from Apple is close to what the entire device originally cost!

Tom Hernandez - Contestar

Last battery was a Nohon battery. Lasted about 18 months. Then the “won’t start up past apple logo” problem. Others have said there was a fix for this bug, but the correct fix appears to be a new battery. New adhesive strips used different adhesive which wasn’t so gummy and was partly unstuck and screen was slightly loose. Disassembled easily using suction cup (Isclack) with extreme care at lower right or avoid this area where all the cables are. Old non-oem strips easily removed. New adhesive strips were different design. Figuring out which goes where is easier lining up with the base features, but strip backing made it easier to apply to the screen. With adhesive strips and intact backing on the screen side, iPad can be assembled for testing prior to final stick down later. Much easier repair this time than with original gummy adhesive.

cheongi - Contestar

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