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Introducción
Use esta guía para reemplazar la batería de su iPad.
Qué necesitas
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Si está agrietado el cristal de la pantalla, mantenga aún más la rotura contenida y prevenir daños físicos durante su reparación con cinta adhesiva el vidrio.
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Coloque tiras de cinta adhesiva transparente sobre la pantalla del iPad se solapan hasta que toda la superficie está cubierta.
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Haga todo lo posible para seguir el resto de la guía como se ha descrito. Sin embargo, una vez que el vidrio se rompe, es probable que continúe a agrietarse a medida que trabaja, y es posible que necesite usar una herramienta de palanca de metal para recoger el vaso.
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There are 14 metal clips holding the display assembly in place, shown at left. As you pry in the following steps, do your best to pry around these clips and not slice through them with your opening tool.
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Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.
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Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
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Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.
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With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.
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The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.
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Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.
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Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.
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In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:
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Digitizer
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Ambient Light Sensor
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Display Data Cable
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.
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Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.
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Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.
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Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.
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Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
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Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to:
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Pry the side button connector up off the logic board from underneath the wires.
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Pry the speaker connector up off its socket on the logic board from beneath the speaker wires.
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Carefully flip up the ZIF ribbon cable retaining flap on the socket near the headphone jack.
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Pull the headphone jack ribbon cable toward the left side of the iPad to disconnect it from its socket.
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Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear panel assembly.
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Two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws.
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Two 3.76 mm T5 Torx screws.
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock cable connector straight up off the logic board.
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Lift the logic board out of the rear panel assembly.
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Retire los dos tornillos Torx T5 de 2,84 mm que sujetan el conjunto de altavoces al conjunto del panel posterior.
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Retire el tornillo T5 Torx único que asegura el medio del cable de acoplamiento al conjunto del panel posterior.
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Para volver a armar su dispositivo, siga estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar su dispositivo, siga estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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14 comentarios
Tried this with 2 ebay "OEM" cheapo batteries. Both failed- wouldn't charge, reboot every few minutes.
Solution: Dissected both new and original batteries. Snipped out old LI-ION cells from original Apple battery pack frame. Soldered new LI-ON cells into original battery frame.
Success!
The battery pack includes both LI-ION cells and an small circuit board. The cheapo replacement battery packs don't work (with newer IOS versions? are they actively blocking 3rd party battery replacements?)
Using the circuit board from the original battery pack with new LI-ION cells seems to fix everything.
Be ready to peel off a lot of adhesive label stickers and maybe use a bit of electrical tape to produce a renovated battery pack that works- original Apple battery frame + new LI-ION cells..
Thanks for letting us know that battery PCB takes LiIon cells replacement. I have the same problem with reboot using cheap ebay replacement battery. Going to test new LiIon cells for capacity and if OK - will resolder them.
Paul G -
PS: just replaced two cells, it works. Just in case, to prevent the charging PCB to loose the power (some LiIon controllers can lock because of power loss) I did it one by one. First I removed one cell, soldered replacement, then second one. I estimated capacity of new cells using Imax B6 charger - both of them were around 3100mah, not bad for noname $12 battery from ebay.
Paul G -
I am new to this. Does the iPad need to be kept powered up by an external battery while changing out the battery pack to prevent loss of apps and data? I don't mind so much losing data, it is backed to cloud. But apps are a problem as many of mine are no longer available.