Introducción
Retira el bisel frontal para acceder a las partes internas de tu iMac.
Qué necesitas
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Afloja el único tornillo Phillips en el centro de la puerta de acceso.
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Retira la puerta de acceso de tu iMac.
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Herramienta utilizada en este paso:Heavy-Duty Suction Cups (Pair)$14.95
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Pega dos ventosas en las esquinas opuestas del panel de vidrio.
Save $15 dollars and use a plunger. Works perfectly.
Perhaps not so elegant but equally effective without any adverse effects to either... try a vacuum cleaner.
The same kind of suction cups are available from Harbor Freight Tools (Item # 62715) for $2.99 each or $5.98/pair (plus sales tax).
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Tira con cuidado del panel de vidrio hacia arriba del iMac.
The glass panel is somewhat thin and should come away quite easily without much force so be gentle.
To reinstall the glass, I lined up the bottom edge first, then pivoted the top in. The magnets pulled it quickly into place.
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Retira los siguientes 12 tornillos que sujetan el bisel frontal a la carcasa trasera:
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Ocho tornillos Torx T8 de 13 mm
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Cuatro tornillos Torx T8 de 25 mm
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Seis tornillos Torx T8 de 13 mm
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Cuatro tornillos Torx T8 de 25 mm
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Dos tornillos Torx T8 de 35 mm
I only had two 25 mm T8 Torx on my model. (The two inner orange circles as shown in the diagram.)
I don't know if this is different but i am in the process of disassembling a 24' imac emc: 2134. i have only: (2) 25 mm T8 screws the inner two on the bottom of the screen. I have (4) 13 mm t8 screws the outer most holes on the bottom and the 2 holes on the right side of the monitor above the drive entrance and the remaining holes are (6) 11 mm t8 screws
I have the same screws as ccarter on a 2211 except on the bottom row there are only 4 screws total, the longer ones go in the middle two.
My 2211 has a different screw configuration.
2 - 32mm long screws towards the middle of the bottom edge
4 - 18mm long screws (2 at the corners of the bottom edge and 2 along the right edge)
6 - 13mm screws along top and left edges
Mine is the same — two very long, four medium, and six short. Also my T9 worked better than my T8 which was a bit loose.
I have the same screws as Christian. The key is to make sure all screws are flush to the surface, so that the glass can be held up by the magnets.
On mine, for the red circles, I had the six 13mm Torx plus two 25mm Torx. It's not indicated in the picture here, but the 25mm Torx went on either side of the optical drive.
I marked next to each hole with a pencil "S, M or L" to indicate which length screw goes where. No guess work on reassembly.
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Levanta con cuidado el bisel frontal desde el borde superior de la carcasa trasera. Es útil usar los pulgares para empujar hacia abajo muy suavemente en las esquinas de la pantalla.
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Una vez que el borde superior del bisel frontal haya salido de la carcasa trasera, gira el bisel delantero hacia el soporte y levántalo de la carcasa trasera.
Looking at the meaning of the LEDS
i've got 3 LEDS on but i don't get a chime or the screen.
i am going to check the inverter voltages but can only find info for the 20" macs iMac Intel 20" EMC 2210 Power Supply Output Voltage Test
does anyone know where i can get info for the 24"
i have the same thing, 3 LEDs on but no chime and no screen.
what is the fix? and problem?
Bill -
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Desconecta el conector del cable del micrófono, quitando la cinta según sea necesario.
I also skipped disconnecting the microphone cable. I have a large table and I stacked some books next to the iMac. There was plenty of cable for the bezel to fold nicely over the top of the iMac.
I used the floor instead of a table and left the cable connected.
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Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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PH2 head necessary to remove screw.
airshack - Contestar
Mine was as written, a PH1.
tpivo - Contestar