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Introducción

Usa esta guía para quitar o remplazar el disco de estado solido, SSD, en tu MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013.

    • Quita los 10 tornillos que aseguran la parte inferior de la carcasa a la parte superior:

    • Dos tornillos Pentalobe de 2.3 mm

    • Ocho tornillos Pentalobe de 3.0 mm

    • A lo largo de esta reparación, realiza un seguimiento de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelva exactamente de donde proviene para evitar dañar tu dispositivo.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Contestar

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - Contestar

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

    Edison - Contestar

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Contestar

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - Contestar

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - Contestar

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Contestar

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Contestar

  1. Introduce tus dedos entre la parte superior y la parte inferior de la carcasa.
    • Introduce tus dedos entre la parte superior y la parte inferior de la carcasa.

    • Tira suavemente de la carcasa inferior para retirarla.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Contestar

  2. La carcasa inferior está conectada a la carcasa superior con dos clips de plástico cerca de su centro. Durante el reensamblaje, empuja suavemente hacia abajo el centro de la carcasa inferior para volver a sujetar los dos clips de plástico.
    • La carcasa inferior está conectada a la carcasa superior con dos clips de plástico cerca de su centro.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, empuja suavemente hacia abajo el centro de la carcasa inferior para volver a sujetar los dos clips de plástico.

    There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

    wrbandllm - Contestar

    This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

    addvariety - Contestar

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - Contestar

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - Contestar

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Contestar

  3. Si es necesario, remueve la cubierta de plástico adherida a la placa de contacto de la batería.
    • Si es necesario, remueve la cubierta de plástico adherida a la placa de contacto de la batería.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - Contestar

    There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

    Jaime Leonard - Contestar

  4. Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica. Asegúrate de levantar solo en el conector o puedes arriesgarte a dañar la placa lógica permanentemente.
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería directamente de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de levantar solo en el conector o puedes arriesgarte a dañar la placa lógica permanentemente.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Contestar

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - Contestar

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Contestar

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - Contestar

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Contestar

  5. Pliega el conector de la batería hacía arriba y sácalo del medio para prevenir contacto accidental con su enchufe durante la reparación.
    • Pliega el conector de la batería hacía arriba y sácalo del medio para prevenir contacto accidental con su enchufe durante la reparación.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Contestar

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Contestar

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - Contestar

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - Contestar

  6. Quita el unico tornillo Torx T5 de 2.9mm que mantiene unido el SSD a la placa base
    • Quita el unico tornillo Torx T5 de 2.9mm que mantiene unido el SSD a la placa base

    In case you need it, the underside of the SSD board will indicate the size of the drive, e.g., 128GB.

    Aldo Cugnini - Contestar

  7. Levanta ligeramente de la esquina suelta del disco de estado solido (SSD)  y estira de manera uniforme hacia afuera del conector de la tarjeta. Solo levanta lo suficiente el SSD como para permitir que puedas estirar de él - cerca de 6,3 mm Solo levanta lo suficiente el SSD como para permitir que puedas estirar de él - cerca de 6,3 mm
    • Levanta ligeramente de la esquina suelta del disco de estado solido (SSD) y estira de manera uniforme hacia afuera del conector de la tarjeta.

    • Solo levanta lo suficiente el SSD como para permitir que puedas estirar de él - cerca de 6,3 mm

    Transcend 960GB JetDrive 720 SATAIII 6Gb/s Solid State Drive Upgrade Kit for MacBook Pro 13" with Retina Display, Late 2012 - Early 2013 (TS960GJDM720) - Is this compatible with the Macbook Pro 13" Retina - Mid 2014?

    Jess - Contestar

    Según el fabricante no, me puse en contacto con ellos y dicen que estan en desarrollo. Yo ya pregunte en este foro por que otro unidad de ssd cambio la original y nadie responde...

    According to the manufacturer no, I got in touch with them and say they are developing . I already ask at this forum by another unit ssd change the original and nobody answers ..

    Antonio -

    Manufacturers that don't say it's compatible, just haven't tested it. You just have to pay special attention to the notch(es) on the connector. I had a 512 GB SSD lying around, but it had two notches at 1/3 and 2/3 (M.2 B & M notches) instead of the MacBook's notch that's somewhat in the middle and is NOT a standard of the M.2 format.

    addvariety -

    No. But OWC now sells a higher capacity SSD for the 2015 MBP's

    robert Seith - Contestar

    Great guide!

    Daniel - Contestar

    Why do I need to disconnect the battery?

    David DelMonte - Contestar

    To prevent damage on motherboard while connecting/disconnecting SSD.

    Fedor Zhuromsky -

    What are your recommendations for transferring the data to the replacement flash drive?

    ari - Contestar

    Before changing hard drive, back up data via Time Machine. After hard drive replacement, restore Time Machine backup onto new hard drive.

    William -

    no other brand sad, for MacBook RD mid 2014?

    iCalfixit - Contestar

    Can i swap my macbook pro 13" (late 2013) 128gb ssd with macbook air 13" 512gb ssd...? Would it work like that or they don't work with this combination...?

    VVK - Contestar

    Yes, you can.

    Oleg -

    Can i use 1T ssd in macbook Retina Mf840 ??? change 256 to 512 or 1T :/

    Pedram BehzadiFar - Contestar

    Hey, do you know if Transcend Jetdrive 725 is compatible with a 2015 MBP 13 retina ? Thanks for your help

    Leo Merazian - Contestar

    Could the ssd replace the 128gb hdd? Are they same size?

    wongsamson7 - Contestar

    I’m hoping to install a 1TB or 2TB (preferably 2TB) in a MacBook Pro 13” early 2015 model. Which brand & model SSD would be recommended

    Kryn Sporry - Contestar

    I just installed a OWC Aura Pro 1T in my mid 2014 MacBook Pro. Reviews were really good, OWC makes SSD’s for macs. Review on Macworld were good and they won awards back in 2011. So far no issues. Ironically the SSD originally came in my MacBook is a sandisk from apple. Almost 5 years and never had issues. Just too small of an SSD. Keeping it in the OWC EnvoyPro enclosure that came with the upgrade kit.

    Peppon -

    Hey fellow Upgraders :)I am currently working with an MBP 13inch early 2015, 128 Gb SSD inside. As we all know, that is barely enough to store your own photos on, and when the wife’s collection is added… well, let’s just say I need to put at least a 1TB in :)

    Checked all the comments, and concluded HW-wise Samsungs are a no go, as per notches not in the semi middle.

    One thing I have not anybody seen mentioning here is the heat production of the SSD. If I would put a 1TB in will it likely overheat and die in the enclosure, or do I not have to worry about it. Although there are air-vents on the MBP, I have not found a fan (hate sound anyway) to keep things cool.

    Your thoughts?

    Regards, Rick

    Rick Wilbrink - Contestar

    If you’d like to use Samsung’s M.2 NVMe SSDs (and probably any other M.2 NVMe SSD currently on the market) you’ll have to get an adapter that will allow it; https://www.amazon.com/Sintech-Adapter-U.... As far as heat production is concerned the SSD’s built-in throttling mechanism can help mitigate that if it decides it’s running too hot; usually when there are large file transfers taking place. Off the top of my head I think Samsung and WD do thermal throttling.

    Barry Effinger -

    Consider adding a micro SD card, with an adapter, to the Macbook Pro permanently. Great way to add capacity beyond the SSD. You can get several adapters that are “low profile” and will not protrude form your MBP.

    petepub - Contestar

    I just replaced my mid 2014 MacBook Pro 128 GB SSD to the Aura Pro X2 1T. Taking the old SSD out was easy but installing the new Aura pro X2 took several tries. I thought it was not going to fit as it only seated part way. I was getting a little worried but after a few tries I got it to seat all the way in. Formatted the drive per OWC instructions on their site and I’m waiting on the Time Machine Back-Up to complete. OWC site had a few e xtra steps than ifixit steps. MacBook Pro booted up fine and displayed the new Aura SSD. Formatted as noted in instructions as well. No issues to this point. I will update once restore is done. HOPE ALLWORKS FINE!!!!

    Peppon - Contestar

    SUCCESS!!!!! All worked great, took a bit to reboot after back up restore. Part of the issue why it took so long I had to turn WiFi back on. Then it uploaded all my settings once I signed into my Apple ID account.

    Peppon -

Conclusión

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So… can I just buy the new PCIe SSDs and use it in the 2013 rMBP? I'm very confused about these PCIe SSDs.

Timothy Brown - Contestar

My retina 15" got the logic board damage and fix it is just stupid. Now in the mean time the new ones come up next quarter, I'm using my macbook pro 2011. Now, because the 2011 is no Retina, SSD and all the other good stuff in it (crying in silence) I did some research to make the 2011 better and I found out I can upgrade to 16 ram and a SSD. Now I check and is not that expensive at least for a SSD 128. BUT this morning it hit me, and I want to ask and make research about this idea. Guys I was wondering, can I take the SSD from my Retina that is actually SSD 256 and put it in my 2011? And save in the SSD? I mean, if possible of curse, if not I would go to buy it how I plan in the first place. Anyway guys any suggestions, ideas or advice are all welcome. I want to know whats best to improve the 2011 meanwhile the new ones get the upgrade. Thanks in advance! :)

tane883 - Contestar

Can I use an Intel SSD 540s SSD M.2? Intel says it doesn't support NVMe. Does it need to or would that just add extra performance?

3PL - Contestar

Can you also please put a link how to reinstall mac os after installing a new hardrive? thanks

Joseph Grigoletti - Contestar

Can i swap my macbook pro 13" (late 2013) 128gb ssd with macbook air 13" 512gb ssd...? Would it work like that or they don't work with this combination...?

VVK - Contestar

so im confused about those SSDs right now. This here is an PCIe SSD, right?

Adi - Contestar

I have a 2015 model Macbook 13inch retina display. Is this sansung SSD compatible with it? https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/mem...

Manny Ramirez - Contestar

Hola, sabe alguien si se puede poner en la placa a1502 un disco duro ssd m2 samsung EVO PLUS de 1TB con adaptador.Gracias

David - Contestar

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