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Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017

Qué necesitas

  1. Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017, Desactivar el arranque automático: paso 1, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017, Desactivar el arranque automático: paso 1, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017, Desactivar el arranque automático: paso 1, imagen 3 de 3
    • Antes de comenzar, debes desactivar la función de arranque automático de tu Mac. Auto Boot se enciende en tu Mac cuando abres la tapa y puede activarse accidentalmente durante el desmontaje. Usa esta guía o sigue las instrucciones abreviadas a continuación para deshabilitar el inicio automático. Este comando podría no funcionar en todas las Macs

    • Enciende tu Mac y ejecuta Terminal.

    • Copia y pega el siguiente comando (o escríbelo exactamente) en la Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Presiona [return]. Si se te solicita, introduce tu contraseña de administrador y vuelve a pulsar [return]. Nota: La tecla de retorno también puede estar etiquetada como ⏎ o "enter".

    • Ahora puedes apagar con seguridad su Mac y abrir la carcasa inferior, sin que se encienda accidentalmente.

    • Cuando hayas finalizado la reparación y se haya vuelto a ensamblar su Mac, vuelve a habilitar el inicio automático con el siguiente comando:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    Macrepair SF - Contestar

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Contestar

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Contestar

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Contestar

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Contestar

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Contestar

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Contestar

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Contestar

    If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot

    Roberto Sanchez Bustos -

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Contestar

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Contestar

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Contestar

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Contestar

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Contestar

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - Contestar


    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - Contestar

    When I did this from within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - Contestar

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - Contestar

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - Contestar

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - Contestar

    Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?

    maël muzelet - Contestar

    Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"

    Claire Miesch -

    Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

    Tom Markham - Contestar

    If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

    arichard2401 - Contestar

  2. Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017, Caja inferior: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Apaga completamente y desenchufa tu MacBook Pro antes de comenzar. Cierra la pantalla y da vuelta la computadora portátil boca abajo.

    • Usa un destornillador Pentalobe P5 para remover lo seis tornillos que sujetan la caja inferior:

    • Cuatro tornillos de 4.7 mm

    • Dos tornillos de 6.6 mm

    • Ten en cuenta la orientación de los tornillos a medida que los retires; es necesario reinstalarlos con un ligero ángulo.

    • A lo largo de esta reparación,haz un seguimiento de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vuelva exactamente de donde salió para evitar dañar tu dispositivo.

    These screws are TINY and different lengths. I highly recommend purchasing the recommended magnetic project mat.

    Steve - Contestar

    So this need to replace each and every screw in its exact former position explains exactly the excruciating difficulty I am having in getting the set of four shorter screws screws back in after everything else having gone successfully. Wanna scream at the top of my lungs. Maybe this point needed to be made in all ALL CAPS and BOLD for me. So can I still just start over trying each screw in each hole or have I messed up the threads in trying to screw in screws mismatched to their holes?

    hatuxka - Contestar

    The front screws are at a slight angle, pay attention when putting them back!

    Cristian Caprar - Contestar

    I did not have the magnetic project mat, but instead I stuck loops of blue painter's tape on the table, wrote the step number on them in sharpie, and stuck the screws/covers for the corresponding step on them.

    dunhamsteve - Contestar

    If the battery you are replacing is swollen and you do not know it is - swollen, Watch out!

    You may strip threads on some of the screws. Rotate the unscrewing as in a clockwise - counterclockwise manner if some of them start to feel tight.

    G Sena - Contestar

  3. Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 3, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 3, imagen 2 de 2
    • Presiona una ventosa en su lugar cerca del borde frontal de la caja inferior entre los orificios de los tornillos.

    • Levanta la ventosa lo suficiente como para abrir una pequeña grieta debajo de la caja trasera.

    You can probably just skip to step 6 if battery is swollen. These steps will likely be taken care of for you.

    G Sena - Contestar

  4. Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 4, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 4, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 4, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la esquina de una púa de apertura en la grieta que creaste por debajo de la caja inferior.

    • Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina más cercana y luego hasta la mitad del lado de la MacBook Pro.

    • Esto libera el primero de los clips escondidos que sujetan la caja inferior. Deberás sentir y escuchar que el clip se libera.

  5. Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 5, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 5, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 5, imagen 3 de 3
    • Repite el paso anterior en el lado opuesto, usando tu púa de apertura para soltar el segundo clip.

  6. Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 6, imagen 1 de 1
    • Levanta el borde frontal de la caja inferior (el lado opuesto de la bisagra de la pantalla) lo suficiente como para deslizar tus dedos por debajo y conseguir una buena sujeción.

    • Hay dos clips adicionales escondidos en la mitad de la tapa que podría liberarse en este momento, si no lo han hecho todavía.

    • No levantes demasiado y no intentes remover la caja inferior aun.

  7. Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 7, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 7, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 7, imagen 3 de 3
    • Tira de la caja inferior firmemente hacia la parte frontal de la MacBook (lejos del área de la bisagra) para separar el último de los clips que sujeta la caja inferior

    • Tira primero de una esquina, luego de la otra.

    • Tira hacia un lado, no hacia arriba.

    • Esto puede requerir mucha fuerza.

    This step drew blood. Darn you Apple!

    Kyle B - Contestar

    I found it easier to insert a screwdriver through the hole (not too far down), and use that to pull sideways, as it was hard to get a strong grip with my fingers.

    Athanassios Diacakis - Contestar

    If you have a black stick, or a nylon probe tool, you can insert it at the back at the point closest to the screw holes, and use that to push the lower case forward. I’ve seen this help me quite a few times, and it makes it quite easier.

    Adrian Brown - Contestar

    I like adrianbrown's suggestion. Spot on!

    wmetzgerusa - Contestar

    Its difficult if the side catches arent released properly, check them again if it seems too much.

    tonygreenfield - Contestar

    I snapped one of the spring loaded logic board grounding pins. Take your time. Leverage from the back in order to push it out versus pulling on it.

    stevanuscg - Contestar

    Take the opening pick and stick the edge down behind the hinge all the way to one side, so it is perpendicular to the case, and give it a twist. That end should pop free. Do the same on the other side and there you go.

    Indawg Wetrust - Contestar

    Thanks Indawg Wetrust, Made it very easy!

    Louis C - Contestar

    They, iFixit, are not kidding. Quite a bit of force needed.

    Norm Hils - Contestar

    This step requires a lot of force to slide the back cover away. Make sure you get a good grip of the mac body and of the back panel.

    Cristian Caprar - Contestar

  8. Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 8, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 8, imagen 2 de 2
    • Remueve la caja inferior.

    • Para volver a instalar la caja inferior:

    • Colócala en su lugar y alinea los clips deslizantes cerca de la bisagra de la pantalla. Presiona y desliza la tapa hacia la bisagra. Debe dejar de deslizarse cuando los clips se enganchan.

    • Cuando los clips deslizantes están completamente enganchados y la caja inferior se ve correctamente alineada, presiona firmemente la caja inferior para enganchar los cuatro clips ocultos. Deberías sentirlos y oírlos encajar en su lugar.

    I am doing a battery replacement for a client on this model. The battery has swollen more than I have ever seen before on a Mac! Roughly a ½” higher, once cover removed. Cover was so tight that one screw stripped and had to drill out one screw after trying everything else! Fortunately, I’m an exmechanic/machinist and I own a full size drill press! None of the screw extraction tools sold by ifixit worked or were applicable until I finally got the cover off. Then the small screw pliers from Japan were easier to use than anything else I own. My tools are mostly for larger nuts, bolts and screw extraction. Possibly a mini hammer driver screwdriver would work if one could be made small enough for tiny screws! Ross

    Ross Elkins - Contestar

  9. Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017, Reemplazo de altavoz: paso 9, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017, Reemplazo de altavoz: paso 9, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017, Reemplazo de altavoz: paso 9, imagen 3 de 3
    • El altavoz está pegado al recinto con una cinta muy dura, así que usé un secador de pelo para que fuera más fácil quitarlo.

    • Usa el secador de pelo para calentar el metal del otro lado, al lado del teclado.

    Step 1: CAREFULLY unlatch the cable connection to the motherboard.

    Damon Hamm - Contestar

    Slide a thin sparger underneath the cable starting from the direction of the fans and towards the batteries. The connector lifts straight up to disconnect

    Damon Hamm - Contestar

    Does not show how to disconnect speaker from motherboard. Thanks.

    Richard Carey - Contestar

    To unglue the loudspeaker it needs quite a bit of heat : leave it opposite side for at least two minutes before using a metal piece starting from the top of the loudspeaker ( thin side) There is a gap between the chassis of the computer and the plastic loudspeaker :easy to insert a thin metallic spugger.

    thierry28722 - Contestar

    Not terribly hard to safely pry the speaker(s) out: there is plenty of speaker edge that overhangs the vertical containing part of the chassis that surrounds the speaker. That gets you a good start, for example with a fine, thin-blade screwdriver. Once it starts coming up, it's not hard to keep pulling the whole thing out.

    Dean Pentcheff - Contestar

  10. Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017, Sacando el altavoz (la parte más difícil): paso 10, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017, Sacando el altavoz (la parte más difícil): paso 10, imagen 2 de 2
    • Después de eso, inserta una regla de metal entre el altavoz y el recinto. Ten cuidado de no dañar las carcasas de las baterías cuando lo haces.

    • También puedes intentar usar una cuerda de guitarra en la esquina redondeada al lado de la batería.

    • Funciona mejor cuando calientas la carcasa mientras intentas quitar el altavoz. Pídele a alguien que sostenga el secador de pelo mientras tiras.

    • Solo aplica tanto calor como necesites hasta que el pegamento se afloje un poco.

  11. Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 11, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 11, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz de MacBook Pro 15 2016-2017: paso 11, imagen 3 de 3
    • En mi caso, usé cinta adhesiva de doble cara para este reemplazo. Lo más importante en este paso es no hacer un hueco cuando se corta y se pone en el altavoz. Incluso un pequeño hueco hará que el sonido se distorsione.

    • Además, noté las diferencias estructurales entre los modelos de 2016 y 2017. El de la derecha es el modelo 2017 y el de la izquierda es el modelo 2016 de iFixit. El material absorbente del sonido es ligeramente diferente como se puede ver en la tercera imagen, pero no pude notar la diferencia en la calidad del sonido.

    Bei mir ist sogar der originale Kleber genau richtig im Gehäuse kleben geblieben.

    Ich habe Ihn dann nur nochmal mit dem Fön erwärmt und den neuen Lautsprecher feste (und vorsichtig) daraufgeklebt.

    Andreas Martin - Contestar

    welche Kleber kann man benutzen?

    Adolfo Leyh - Contestar


Varios meses después de este reemplazo, el tiempo de funcionamiento de la batería se redujo tanto que hice que revisaran mi MBP en Genius Bar. Les pregunté si podía recibir el repuesto de la batería, incluso yo mismo reemplacé el altavoz correcto, dijeron que podían. Finalmente, se reemplazó la carcasa superior, incluida la batería y los altavoces. Sin embargo, tengo miedo de que los nuevos altavoces se vuelvan a romper porque a veces hacen un crujido mientras reproducen música o algo así.

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Takashi Miyazaki

Miembro Desde 01/13/19

1,289 Reputación

1 Guía escrita

22 comentarios

is battery draining is related to speaker replacement? as I get it’s not, but just wanted to double-check

I’ll need to do the same replacement after I’ve damaged my speaker when I was opening my MacBook to change thermal paste, so great news you can change to case after a repair like that, thank you

Dmitry Petrov - Contestar

Has anyone done this repair and what there any problems?

Charles Lampard - Contestar

Are these speakers located directly under the back /bottom cover? I have the MacBook Pro (15-inch, 2016) touch bar and I see in some videos people going through so many steps trying to get to them so I’m a little confused by this 3-step tutorial.

Seba KL - Contestar

Where can I buy the right-side speaker component, 2017 model? As you noted in the 3rd step section, you find the structural differences between 2016 and 2017models. When I search the 2017 model right-side speaker in ifixit. com here, the component seems to be only 2016 model as below:

MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Late 2016-2017) Right Speaker

Also, do you have a video tutorial of replacing speakers? If then, much appreciated!

Kyungil Kong - Contestar

Sorry I didn’t record the video of this repair. You can find it on eBay, the link is here :

but I’m not sure if it would work perfectly because it is used one. So I recommend you buy the right speaker on iFixit though it might be 2016 model because I couldn’t tell the difference of sound quality between 2016 and 2017 model.

Takashi Miyazaki -

Thank you. I am suddenly wondering what kind of glue is good for use to be replaced with a new speaker part, as you noted that you used a double-sided tape.

As for the 2017 model speakers, I am leaving a piece of information for someone who wants to repair speakers.

That seems to be a genuine 2017 model of speakers.

If not, please correct and suggest other 2017 models. By the way, I am appreciated for Takashi Miyazaki  suggesting one in iFixit website.

Kyungil Kong - Contestar

Yes, I think it is the real one! As for the tape I used for the repair, the thickness was 0.6mm if I remember correctly and it was suitable for taping on metal.

Takashi Miyazaki -

What type of double sided tape did you need to use?


Buckley Robinson - Contestar

I ended up using a plastic pry tool instead of a metal ruler (worried about the battery), but otherwise I found this guide excellent. It took me about 15 minutes, so the estimated time might be a bit on the long side - almost all of that time was carefully prying up the old speaker.

The iFixit part that is linked comes with adhesive now! Not sure when that changed, but obviously makes the replacement MUCH easier.

benjaminbarad - Contestar

Did this replacement solved muffling sound issue? Here is the video where the volume triggered muffling issue is demonstrated

Alex Bokhankovich -

Bein Doppelseitigen Klebeband am Temperaturbeständigkeit achten (3M)

Sebastian - Contestar

Hey Guys, another question here: so you think these replacement speakers are original ones?

I replaced them with cheap china speakers a year ago, and surprise surprise.. they sound like crap.

So just to be sure that I will buy the good sounding ones.

Thanks in advance!

Florian Zuber - Contestar

I’ve tried two speaker replacements so far, and each gave the distorted / buzzing sound with no bass / loudness compared to the left one. I verified this by panning audio to the left and right in system preferences. The process to take out the speaker was not that bad. I used a hair dryer with an attachment to isolate the heat to the side of the MacBook top case and keep away from the battery / board.

Any ideas what might be causing this?

fitzgeraldbranen - Contestar

It looks like it is the actual replacement speaker and not adhesive / poor installation as I was suspecting. The replacement parts from here are similar, but the clear tubing is a little different and seems like just bad parts from China. Let me know if anyone else is experiencing the same, but shout out to iFixit’s team for being super awesome to work with.

fitzgeraldbranen -

I bought the speaker directly from ifixit US and yep, I have the same problem. The speaker seems to be the issue here clearly.

No bass (checked with a third party equalizer to verify) very thin mid and a very odd buzzing.

MrWegl -

Same here. Bought speaker from iFixit and after installing it (not that hard by the way), Sound continues distorted in particular with bass. Keeps happening only on right speaker…

Nuno Lima -

Done this on my 2017 model. Thanks!

Mei Okubo - Contestar

Don’t you have to disconnect the battery first?

Just a quick question.

willim1 - Contestar

How can I tell which speaker is muffled L or R?

Bethany Kross - Contestar

Just replaced both speakers, with great success. I was able to pry the old ones out easily with out heat. I replaced them with used speakers which don't come with adhesive. For one, the original adhesive stuck to the case and worked fine to restick the replacement speaker. For the other, the adhesive came out with the original speaker and was unsalvageable. I used double-stick tape to stick that one in, and it seems to have worked.

Nick Rhind - Contestar

Another success story — sound is now fine. Speakers came out with a little bit of heat from a heat gun (may be hotter than a hairdryer — definitely less than a minute to be warm enough). Replacements from dvwarehouse, which came with adhesive already attached. Old adhesive could be peeled out in one piece, with a little bit of care.

Probably a good idea to "rehearse" how you will insert the new speakers before removing the protective layer on the adhesive. If you boggle laying them down, you'll have a tough time adjusting them.

Dean Pentcheff - Contestar

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