Introducción
Sigue está guía para remover y reemplazar la placa lógica del iPhone 8.
Nota La placa lógica de cada iPhone y el sensor de huella digital ID Táctil están acoplados de fábrica, así que si reemplazas la placa lógica, inhabilitarás el ID Táctil "al menos que" también instales un botón de inicio de reemplazo que haya sido acoplado apropiadamente en la nueva placa lógica.
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Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.
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Retira los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3,5 mm en el borde inferior del iPhone.
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La apertura de la pantalla del iPhone comprometerá sus sellos de impermeabilidad. Ten listos los sellos de repuesto antes de seguir adelante con este paso, o ten cuidado de evitar la exposición a líquidos si vuelve a ensamblar su iPhone sin reemplazar los sellos.
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Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando la apertura.
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Usa un secador de pelo o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo en el borde inferior del teléfono durante aproximadamente 90 segundos para suavizar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.
Hello,
What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help
Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)
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Aplica una ventosa en la mitad inferior del panel frontal, justo encima del botón de inicio.
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Si tu pantalla está muy agrietada, cubrirla con una capa de cinta adhesiva transparente puede permitir que la ventosa se adhiera. Alternativamente, se puede usar una cinta muy fuerte en lugar de la ventosa. Si todo lo demás falla, puedes pegar la ventosa a la pantalla rota.
Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.
As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …
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Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un pequeño espacio entre el panel frontal y la caja trasera.
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Inserta un púa de apertura en el espacio.
Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!
I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(
Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.
Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.
Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.
Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.
- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.
- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.
In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.
Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.
I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?
After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...
- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button
- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip
- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in
- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick
Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.
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Desliza la púa de apertura hacia arriba por el borde izquierdo del teléfono comenzando en el borde inferior y moviéndose hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor de silencio, rompiendo el adhesivo que mantiene la pantalla en su lugar.
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Detente cerca de la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla.
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Desliza una púa de apertura debajo de la pantalla alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda y a lo largo del borde superior del teléfono para aflojar el último adhesivo.
I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help
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Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la contratapa de un libro.
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Apoya la pantalla contra algo para mantenerlo apuntalado mientras está trabajando con el teléfono.
Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!
Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!
“Up from the left” means lift up the left side.
Which is the same as folding to the right.
“Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.
Maybe it gets lost in translation?
Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!
When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!
Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!
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Remueve los cuatro tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte de cable de pantalla inferior a la placa lógica, de los siguientes largos:
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Dos tornillos 1,3 mm
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Dos tornillos 2,8 mm
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Remueve el soporte.
Not Y000 this time haha
It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.
using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help
I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.
Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.
Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.
took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws
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Utiliza la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería de su cuenca en la placa lógica.
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Dobla el cable de conector de batería ligeramente fuera de la placa lógica para prevenir que haga contacto accidentalmente con la cuenca y proporcione potencia al teléfono durante tu reparación.
Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.
So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.
I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago
This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck
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Utiliza el punto de un spudger para levantar el conector inferior de pantalla del su cuenca.
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Remueve los tres tornillos Phillips de 1,3 mm que sujetan el soporte sobre el conector de ensamblaje del sensor del panel frontal.
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Remueve el soporte.
If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.
This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?
ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.
My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.
Mine too? Any help?
These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)
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Remueve el ensamblaje de pantalla.
Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.
After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.
At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .
Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.
Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.
I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.
DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!
Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!
From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.
I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.
I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)
Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method
- use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery
- use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.
- Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.
Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly
I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.
I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible
Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.
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Introduce una herramienta de eyección de tarjeta SIM o un clip para papel en el pequeño orificio de la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM.
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Presiona firmemente para expulsar la tarjeta.
If you are merely swapping the SIM card, you don’t need to power off your iPhone. If you plan to do any repairs that involve opening the phone, you should definitely power off your iPhone.
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el conector de cable de cámara de su zócalo.
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Remueve los dos tornillos que sujetan el soporte de la cámara trasera:
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Un tornillo separador Phillips de 3.0 mm
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Un tornillo Phillips de 3.1 mm
The screw and standoff are the other way round in this step. The photo shows the small screw removed and the standoff securing the logicboard is circled incorrectly. Also you may find that the standoff screw is not magnetic, making it a little tricky to replace!
Hi Michael,
You are correct; thanks for catching that! The original image was correct, and for some reason the image was updated, and no longer correct. I have reverted it back to the original image.
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Remueve los dos tornillos que sujetan el soporte de cable superior:
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Un tornillo Phillips de 2.9 mm
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Un tornillo Phillips de 1.3 mm
Logically - one wouldn’t need to take out all these things to take out something at the bottom of the phone - but in order to get good access to it, you must remove the logic board - which is long and all the way up at the top connected to the antenna. Follow the steps - it works.
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Remueve los tres tornillos de Phillips de 1.3 mm que sujetan el componente de antena superior izquierda
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Remueve los dos tornillos que sujetan el clip de toma a tierra en el borde superior izquierdo de la placa lógica:
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Un tornillo Phillips de 1.5 mm
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Un tornillo Phillips de 2.6 mm
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Remueve el clip de toma a tierra.
what happen if don't put this part?
Hi Albert,
It’s hard to tell. Most phone functions will probably work, but you may start getting quirky problems.
If it comes out it must go back in *no spare parts *
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Remueve los tres tornillos que sujetan la placa madre:
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Un tornillo Phillips de 1.8 mm
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Un tornillo separador de 2.5 mm
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Un tornillo separador de 2.2 mm
The One 1.8 mm Phillips screw was buried under some gasket material. It took some twezzer work to get that material off.
this is probably the most difficult part because the ‘top 2.5 mm on my version was under a piece of ribbon cable that had to be pulled back. Also notice - this picture is inverted. So the locations are reversed (obviously for clarity)
Buried 1.8mm Phillips easily located under the gasket material by zooming in on the photo to see position relative to connectors. Material is fibrous, so be patient.
I’ve been searching on internet about the black stickers on those parts in the phone and I found nothing about them, what are they? Electrical Tapes? Does it make any differences if we remove them? If yes is, there anything else we can use to replace them? We’re they are for any specific purposes? Thanks in advance if anyone can help me understand
They are just there for a last-ditch effort to keep water out of the connectors.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el cable de la antena de diversidad inalámbrica.
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Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos mencionados arriba en orden inverso.
Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje electrónico.
¿La reparación no salió como planeabas? Fíjate en nuestra comunidad de Respuestas para ayuda de resolución de problemas.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos mencionados arriba en orden inverso.
Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje electrónico.
¿La reparación no salió como planeabas? Fíjate en nuestra comunidad de Respuestas para ayuda de resolución de problemas.
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20 comentarios
Hello evryone. Do I need a new touch ID that fits the motherboard or can I use my old touch ID?
The motherboards that are for sale, sell with touch ID and without. That`s why I am asking.
Hi Sebastian,
Yes, the Touch ID is paired with the motherboard. In order to keep Touch ID functionality, you have to use the fingerprint sensor that comes with the replacement.
can i use this process two switch a logic board from a working i phone to one that is icloud locked?
That’s why I’m here
Hi Kenneth,
The phone’s “identity” is based off of the logic board, so switching a logic board will remove the iCloud lock—if the replacement logic board is not locked. Note that the Touch ID hardware is paired each logic board.
It may work but the card to be replaced needs to be unlocked with iCloud.
i have an iphone 8 plus icloud locked ,is it possible that if i change the motherboard with a new one so moblie will again start and work as before .please brief me about this…
Hi Malik,
The phone’s “identity” is based off of the logic board, so switching a logic board will remove the iCloud lock—if the replacement logic board is not locked. Note that the Touch ID hardware is paired each logic board.
o novo também precisa ser desbloqueado para que tudo funcione
where can i buy the motherboard and Touch ID?
on aliexpress
I'm having trouble with the standoff screw on the logic board. It's not going into the screw that it's supposed. Am I supposed to unscrew the screw underneath it first?
Can somebody please send me a link for the repairkit needed to do this :)
I would recommend the pro tech toolkit, handles all my needs for repairing.
Lua Tech -
will cameras both work when motherboard is replaced? is anything else synced with the motherboard that must transfer over
The cameras will still work as they’re not paired with the logic board. The only thing paired is the Touch ID sensor.
Will a iPhone 8 Plus logic board fit in my old iPhone 7 Plus
to make it have wireless charging ( ik I would have to add the coil but will it work)
Hi everybody
I would likie to clear one doubt please help me i bought iphone 8 the recently update to ios 15.5 the it's showing problem cellular i connect to the itune and restored but the same problem indicating what should i do please explain if ay oe know this solution.
Ruben
just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…
An. Jahnke - Contestar
I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.
Johnny Emrica - Contestar
That’s a great idea thank you
Mohamed Dekkiche -