Shattered screen? Darn digitizer giving your fingers a tough time? Use this guide to replace the display assembly on your Motorola Moto X.

Resumen del Video

  1. Insert the SIM card eject tool into the hole in the side of the SIM card tray and push to eject the tray.
    • Insert the SIM card eject tool into the hole in the side of the SIM card tray and push to eject the tray.

    • Remove the SIM card tray.

    • If the SIM card does not fall free from the tray on its own, simply remove it with your fingers.

    Agregar Comentario

  2. In the following steps you will be releasing the clips holding the phone's cases together. However, the back case is also secured with an adhesive pad. After separating the clips you will use an iOpener to allow the case to fully open. Do not attempt to fully open the phone before loosening the adhesive.
    • In the following steps you will be releasing the clips holding the phone's cases together. However, the back case is also secured with an adhesive pad. After separating the clips you will use an iOpener to allow the case to fully open. Do not attempt to fully open the phone before loosening the adhesive.

    • Insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the front and rear covers near the SIM card slot.

    • Slide the plastic opening tool along the seam toward the upper corner.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Carefully slide the plastic opening tool around the corner, freeing it from clips.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Pry around the top right corner of the phone between the two covers.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Run the opening tool along the seam around all four sides, separating the remaining clips holding the cover on.

    • The plastic on the front cover is thinner near the buttons, and the buttons may move around. Go slowly to avoid damaging the buttons or the front cover.

    • Do not push the opening tool deep into phone, or you may damage internal components.

    Be *very* careful not to push the opening tool too deep when you go around the buttons! I accidentally broke the volume rocker ribbon by doing so, and didn't even realize it until I had completely removed the cover.

    Simeon Simeonides - Contestar

    When i removed the volume rocker i cant get it back in correctly seems to be in right but the volume up is not clicking and only works if i push it really hard any ideas?

    Alf stevens - Contestar

    • Heat an iOpener and lay it over the phone for approximately 90 seconds to loosen the adhesive securing the back cover.

    There is NO GLUE holding on the back of a Moto X with a wood back! That little fact just made the extra $50 I spent on the phone totally worthwhile.

    Doug Larrick - Contestar

    Lucky for you, I have the bamboo, and plenty of adhesive.

    Kelly F -

    • Starting from the SIM slot side, carefully peel the back cover off of the phone.

    • The back cover is very flexible, but you don't want to damage any internal components by being too hasty.

    • There is a chance that the NFC coil may remain stubbornly adhered to the back cover. If that's the case, stop peeling the cover and reapply a heated iOpener to the back cover.

    • Do not separate the back cover entirely; it is still connected to the phone by the camera flash cable.

      • The flash cable is attached on the power/volume button side of the phone.

    Step 15 seemed to be the hardest part for me. (step 25, the battery was also difficult). I am now not a fan of sticky stuff, "Mild adhesive" is definitely an understatement, IMHO, just saying I don't like sticky stuff, maybe I didn't do it right. The iOpener seemed to help a little, but not much.


    BE CAREFUL with the NFC antenna, it says "X8 Mobile Computing System" on it. The adhesive seemed stick to the the blue stuff on the back cover more and loosen up on the bottom of the antenna, the part that sticks to the battery. So in the process of peeling the back cover the antenna started to come up and was torn at the connector strip before I realized what was happening, step 19 has a good picture of the connector strip that I'm talking about. I like using NFC once in awhile, so now my next FIX will be the antenna.

    Overall instructions were GREAT, I now have a camera again. Thank you.

    Patrick - Contestar

    So you are saying that there is no problem if I don't connect the NFC antenna? I'm asking this because I bought a replacement battery that don't include the NFC antenna. I would really appreciate your help with this :)

    jspsaucedo -

    The adhesive was crazy hard on mine as well and I ended up with two small cracks on the edges of my back cover. The blue rubber piece actually separated from the back and removed it from the battery after it was open. The battery itself was also very difficult to remove (pull tab did nothing) and bent/pried the old battery out. I see no reason for all that adhesive! Other than getting the dang thing open the rest was easy. Great guide!

    Darrell Jividen - Contestar

    The adhesive holding the back very strong! In the process of removing the back, I cracked the edges of the back cover and ripped part of the NFC connector. Luckily the friend I was doing the repair for did not even know what NFC was, so she was ok with this. Take your time removing the back cover! Also, the adhesive holding the battery in place was not what I would call mild. The black tab was next to useless in removing the battery

    Danny Smandych - Contestar

    So you are saying that there is no problem if I don't connect the NFC antenna? I'm asking this because I bought a replacement battery that don't include the NFC antenna.

    jspsaucedo -

    Thank you for the guide !!! comments were really useful too. Read them.

    fabajaja - Contestar

    • Gently set the back cover down in a way that exposes the camera flash cable connector, but does not put strain on it.

    As I had seen in another video, my Moto X with a custom back did not have the blue sticky pad. But the back was still well-adhered in the top corners and with a strip of adhesive along the bottom. In the photo in this step you can see the only adhesive I had to deal with, which was on either side of the lens (two dark areas on the phone back) and along the bottom of the phone (dark area at the bottom of the phone back).

    pdisc1 - Contestar

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the flash cable ZIF connector.

    • Be sure to pry only on the flap itself, not on the connector.

    • Pull the flash cable straight out of its socket.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Separate the back cover from the phone.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Remove the four 3 mm T3 Torx screws securing the lower antenna assembly to the phone.

    It turns out to be the hardest step at the moment. I ordered iOpener set, and it is almost useless. It doesn't have t3, only t5, the actual iOpener is useless. I would happily order t3 on, but there is no t3 in Germany, so I ordered on amazon, and it turned out to be a complete $@$*, I was not able to take a single screw out. The guide is really good, I never thought I would have an issue with a screwdriver ....

    Igor Gaidaichuk - Contestar

    These screws were definitely incompatible with my T3 bit - it was too small. T4 worked fine. Not sure if I should attribute this to an error in the guide or inconsistency in the size of my bit set; in any case it might be handy to have a T4 handy if you're not buying the iFixit screwdriver.

    Christian Hinton - Contestar

    Stripped two of four T3 screws almost instantly and with very little force. Be careful! If I can't carve a flat slot into the screw heads I guess I'll have to abort the project or deliberately crack the antenna assembly plastic or try to drill the screw heads to proceed.

    pdisc1 - Contestar

    Drilled out the heads. A bit scary, yes. I agree with another commenter here that my T3 isn't the best fit in these screws. My T3 was a pretty cheap eBay acquisition, so who knows where the blame should go. I wouldn't do this repair again. Phones should be easier to break open than this one. Too much adhesive (and as I mentioned above, mine didn't even have the blue adhesive pad) and T3 heads are super small and asking to be stripped and the two screws I did get out were way too tight. Oh, and also the potential butchering of the cover when prying loose the clips. Mine bent a bit around the headphone jack, but it smoothed back down and is not noticeable. Phone powered up and is charging now. Let's hope it was worth it.

    pdisc1 - Contestar

    On my phone, the screws were DEFINITELY T4. My advise? Try T4 first. If it's too big, nothing lost.

    I nearly stripped the head on one of mine with my T3 bit because it was too small to get traction.

    Larry Smith - Contestar

    Where to buy battery...and price of battery?

    D Rock - Contestar

    I use chinese version of T3 screwdriver shipped with screen and T3/T4/T5 version of MATRIX tool set - both didnt fit for Moto X 1st gen screws. Only Bernstain T3 6-658 screwdriver fits ideally! Spent 2 days to find this tool. Be aware.

    Anton Prilepsky - Contestar

    I was able to do this step by grinding down a cheap T3 that I had laying around from another repair. Like others, I found that these screws seem larger than a T3 - stripped one and had to drill it out. Since the T3 screwdriver I had was tapered, I ground it down until the end was large enough to grip the remaining screws. Success!

    Bob Flens - Contestar

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the lower antenna assembly and free it from the phone.

    • Remove the antenna assembly.

    See that little circular rubber near the bottom right screw? This funnels the background noise to one of the noise canceling microphones. It will be destroyed when you take it off. Freaked me out when I first opened up mine.

    Adrian Koch - Contestar

    This foam "funnel" required re-forming of the center hole (also check hole in back cover foam gasket). If this sound channel gets blocked, the noise canceling will not function properly. Before re-installing the lower antenna assembly, check the oblong 2-hole gasket on the back side of the antenna assembly which covers a sound channel to the offset microphone input hole. If deformed, gently reshape it with tweezers to assure both holes are not plugged.

    ktmorimoto - Contestar

    my antenna going away after change battery

    found networks but not registered , factory reset ,

    please help me

    NM Mahboob Mojaz (AHMN) - Contestar

  3. Reparte el espíritu de reparación esta Navidad
    Obtén $12 de descuento en tu compra de $50 o más con el código FIXMAS12
    Reparte el espíritu de reparación esta Navidad
    Obtén $12 de descuento en tu compra de $50 o más con el código FIXMAS12
    • Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery cable near the connector to lift it straight up from its socket.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the NFC antenna cable connector.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the ZIF retaining flap from the button assembly cable connector.

    • Slide the tip of the spudger under the button assembly cable near the connector to pull the cable straight out of its socket.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger under the interconnect cable to free it from the adhesive holding it to the battery.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the adhesive pull-tab off the top of battery.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Use the adhesive pull-tab to lift the battery from its recess.

    • The battery is secured to the motherboard with mild adhesive. Peel slowly, and be careful not to bend or puncture the battery.

    • Remove the battery from the phone.

    • When reassembling your phone secure the battery with double-sided tape or pre-cut adhesive strips.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Remove the five 3 mm T3 Torx screws from the headphone jack/speaker assembly.

    These screws appear to have some yellow locktite on them. I rounded 2 of them, so take caution and make sure your screw driver fits correctly. Otherwise you will need to find a drill press to extract them.

    stevengrey - Contestar

    Is the glass glued to the LCD like the iPhone 5? Is it possible to repair a broken front glass without changing the whole assembly?

    Alisio - Contestar

    Yes and Yes. Just fixed mine.

    Buy a Glass+Frame from ebay. Do steps 1-18 and 37. Then just open the bottom two torx screws, no more. They are the only ones connected to the front frame. Then heat&remove the glass, tear off the frame with pliers. Then you just need to clean the screen from residue and apply LOCA and the Glass+Frame.

    Adrian Koch -

    Yep, I rounded the bottom-left and bottom-center screws as well as my Torx driver, then slipped with the drill bit and went right through the mobo.

    Coinneach - Contestar

    All screws appear to be Torx T4.

    ktmorimoto - Contestar

    • Insert a spudger under the panhandle of the headphone jack/speaker assembly and pry it up from its recess.

    • Remove the headphone jack/speaker assembly.

    The microphone assembly has foam tape adhesive on it and will want to separate with the headphone jack / speaker assembly.

    Jacob Jaeggli - Contestar

    • Push the tip of a spudger under the microphone assembly clip to free it from the earpiece speaker.

    • If the assembly clip seems to be missing, check the speaker assembly that was removed from the previous step.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to free the microphone assembly cable connector.

    • Use tweezers to remove the microphone assembly.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Disconnect the front-facing camera cable connector.

    • Remove the front-facing camera from its recess with a pair of tweezers.

    There is a thin black foam gasket (like a small washer) that is stuck to the front of this camera lens housing. On mine, the gasket was stuck off-center with the inner edge in the field of view of the lens. Using tweezers, I removed it and re-attached it on center. The image is now much sharper!

    ktmorimoto - Contestar

    • Remove the final two 3 mm T3 Torx screws from the SIM slot bracket.

    On my XT1053 Developer Edition, the Torx screws on the sim slot bracket were not T3 like all the others, they were T4. Trying to use a T3 screwdriver resulted in twisting off the tip of the screwdriver. A T4 screwdriver removed them just fine.

    geekapproved - Contestar

    • Remove the SIM slot bracket from the motherboard.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger under the motherboard above the button assembly cable, and pry it out of the phone.

    • Be careful not to snag any cables.

    • The buttons may pop out of their recesses; take care not to lose them.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Gently lift the motherboard out of the phone, rotating it from the SIM slot edge of the phone.

    • Do not attempt to separate the motherboard entirely; it is still connected to the display by the display cable.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Lay the motherboard down to allow access to the display cable connector.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the display cable ZIF connector.

    • Carefully pull the display cable out of its connector as you remove the motherboard from the display assembly.

    When trying to put the motherboard connection back together I cannot get the flap to hold down. Anyone have a trick to help me get this connection to hold?

    Dave - Contestar

    I also struggled getting this cable back in, I actually assembled it thinking it was "in enough", only to find out I had to take it back apart and push it in further.

    I found that you can lay the screen face down, with the cable upright at a 90 degree angle, then push the motherboard down onto the cable. When it goes in enough, it snaps in fairly well. If it's not in enough, it will be impossible to close the clamp.

    Eric Moe - Contestar

    There is a small black plastic piece which goes over the proximity sensor which can easily fall off. If it does, the sensor will malfunction and think that you are always close, which means you will not be able to hang up or do anything else with your phone while you are on a call and will just have to wait for the other person to hang up. I had to do more or less the whole job over again to reinsert this piece (I couldn't tell where it had fallen from and just hoped my phone would be alright with out it).

    This is discussed in the thread here:

    Can you disable the proximity sensor, Moto X?

    You can see the black plastic over the proximity sensor in these two photos:

    Whereas it is missing in this photo:

    (The sensor is on the lower left in this last photo).

    Malcolm Sailor - Contestar

    When lifting the motherboard, note that there will be some resistance near the USB port due to an adhered foam gasket/funnel which channels sound from the tiny hole in the glass to the voice mic on the back side of the motherboard. Before re-installation of the motherboard, inspect the shape and hole in this foam gasket. It should look like cylindrical standoff about 0.1 inch tall. If it is not a clear sight to the tiny hole in the motherboard, sound will not reach the voice mic. I used the point of a spudger to re-form the hole.

    ktmorimoto - Contestar

    • Use the tip of a spudger to nudge the sleep/power button out of its slot in the display assembly.

    • Remove the sleep/power button cover with a pair of tweezers.

    Mine had a little metal clip between the buttons, a flat side that would have faced the back (since removed) and at a 90 degree angle some little fingers that ran down behind that tab between the buttons. This clip held the buttons in place despite my nudging. Taking the flat side of the spudger from the SIM card side and prying the clip up a bit at a time worked the fingers out of the slots behind the center tab.

    waitdanj - Contestar

    Great description! My phone also had that little part fall out unexpectedly. Only by your post was I able to figure out where it was located.

    davidzach -

    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the volume rocker button cover out of the display assembly, and remove.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Use the tip of a hobby knife to pry the button assembly off of the adhesive securing it to the display assembly.

    • Keep the sharp edge of the knife pointed away from the cable to avoid accidentally cutting it.

    The rest of the steps can be skipped if your replacement display unit doesn't have the metal frame. The frame can be removed by pushing out the 7 tiny pins from the inside. I used needle thin tweezers. You can see one of the pins in the first 2 pictures of this step. When you remove this frame the buttons and speaker come out with it. It is held on with some adhesive also.

    patjrleonard - Contestar

    After you remove the metal frame you will be able to transfer the shiny ear piece accent that is held in with adhesive

    patjrleonard - Contestar

    I noticed this too late that I didn't need to take out the button ribbon cable (mine was frameless as well). I did however have to do step 40 to get the frame out.

    Eric Moe - Contestar

    • Remove the button assembly cable from the display assembly.

    Be careful. Mine was completely glued and could not be removed easily.

    werther - Contestar

    • If your replacement part comes with an earpiece speaker, skip this step.

    • Pry the earpiece speaker out of the display assembly with the point of a spudger.

    • Remove the earpiece speaker with a pair of tweezers.

    Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL when prying the speaker off. You may accidentally separate the magnet from the speaker assembly. I got lucky in that my replacement had a speaker assembly already installed in it.

    markwatermaniac - Contestar

    I second this, I was prying it off and my speaker split apart! BE CAREFUL

    sudorc16 -

    I second the second. But also, I suggest taking your new display assembly out of the bubble wrap and looking at it before you try this step; if the replacement has the speaker on it, you can skip this step (and the probable cursing). My replacement also had the button assembly on it, so I could have skipped that as well.

    waitdanj -

    Me three! The speaker came apart- adhesive holding it in place much too strong. Now another week before that part arrives..

    davidzach -

    where did you happen to get your display assembly from?

    Zymfonic -

    I recommend using a flat wide tweezer blade to remove this part. The adhesive is in the form of a mesh rectangle with adhesive on the speaker side. I believe this also serves as a keep-out for debris. You can control how the speaker lifts up to avoid separating this mesh from the speaker element.

    ktmorimoto - Contestar

    • If your replacement part comes with a white mid-frame, skip the remaining steps.

    • The white mid-frame is held to the display assembly by tiny pins.

    • Look over the long edges of the display assembly and note where all the pins are.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Use a SIM eject tool, SIM eject bit, or a bent paper clip to gently push the pin outwards from within the case.

      • Be sure to do this in a clean and brightly lit work area. The pins are very small and are easily lost.

    • Repeat the process for the remaining pins.

    • To reinstall the pins, align them with the holes on the outside of the display assembly and them push inwards.

      • The pins have a tapered end and will install in only one direction.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the white mid-frame from the display assembly.

      • If any part of the mid-frame seems resistant to movement, check for any overlooked pins still holding the frame in place.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Hold the edges of the white mid-frame and push against the display assembly to swing the mid-frame free.

    • Remove the white mid-frame.

    • When reassembling your phone replace old adhesive with double-sided tape or pre-cut adhesive strips.

    Agregar Comentario


Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Motorola Moto X Answers community for troubleshooting help.

61 personas más completaron esta guía.

Sam Lionheart

Miembro Desde 18/10/12

345,284 Reputación

535 Guías creadas


iFixit Miembro de iFixit


113 Miembros

7,300 Guías creadas

I was able to follow this guide, but the T3 Torx was too small. The T4 Torx was also too small. Fortunately I had a T5 Torx which worked perfectly. During removal of the back I damaged my NFC antenna and can't use my Moto Skip anymore. Be careful with that component.

shawnhartsock - Contestar


NO seriously I have done a ton of electronics projects and getting a torx screwdriver that actually works with most electronics has been a struggle this is the new version of the husky 8-1 I have the old version I believe they are the same. This thing has caught thread on screws where I had given up hope

CalbertEnstein -

This is insane. I'm a computer tech, I build computers for a living. I repair components. Fixing this little crappy phone is crazy complex. Look at all the comments saying "be careful of x because I destroyed it accidentally". Not a one says "wow, that was incredibly simple".

I personally wouldn't try it -- I'd just get another phone and have it swapped onto my account. And then I'd stop doing whatever I'd done to break the first one.

wobblerlorri - Contestar

You should leave ifixit to the qualified. Just stick to Best Buy, kid.

Brn Mace -

Ohhh Ziiingg so hot it burns!

CalbertEnstein -

Guys please help, I managed to replace the screen, but touch is not working, what could I do wrong?

Igor Gaidaichuk - Contestar

Reopen, then verify that the larger ribbon cable you disconnected is still connected straight. If this isn't straight the digitizer will not work as I had one that would come loose as soon as I put the two halves together, I then had to be very sure the ribbon was straight and on place before reassembling.

clgill -

I too managed to replace the screen. the touch was also working fine until I closed the back cover. as soon as I close the cover the touch is gone and when i open the back cover, the touch gets responsive again. unable to figure where is the problem exactly

nipun gangawate -

Guys please help. I replaced the display and everything was working fine until I inserted my SIM card. No network on the phone now. What might be the problem?

Vinay K - Contestar

I have the same problem. Can anyone reply to this??

jin2gale2006 -

I need help. We replaced the screen, but now it is vibrating and wont turn on. It seems like we missed something...any suggestion??

wishuponastar2005 - Contestar

Did you ever figure out a solution? I have the same problem.

Daniel Grohol -

I have the same problem

hermosillaignacio -

Any one have trouble with the camera stopping to work a couple days after the repairs?

Father Guedo - Contestar

the little plastic locking clip that hold power & volume button cable broke off - any thoughts on what I can do to fix. Everything else works great.

gmspivak - Contestar

Put it in tight and put some electrical tape as a TEMPORARY fix the connector itself cost around 6 dollars

Dead Meme -

Just done it :)

Most tricky part is the removal of the back cover. Instead of the iOpener I used a hair dryer.

I got the display from this website (

A bit exspensive but the shipment was quick and the display is exactly the same as the original.

I almost killed the speaker, as the small "grid" was tightly glued, so, yes, be really carefull with that.

Thanks for the tutorial !

Stanska - Contestar

Just replaced my screen! Here are some tips:

- I removed the back cover with the use of the hairdryer but it was difficult because the NFC thing over the battery was stuck to the blue adhesive, and I almost ripped the connector. So be careful.

- There is a small metal clip between the power and volume buttons that holds them in, and it's not listed in the guide. Remove it and then use it later to hold the buttons in on the new display.

- You definitely need an exacto or very sharp knife to remove volume/power buttons.

- Also use an exacto to remove the speaker

- The battery requires a lot of force to pull out so be prepared

- bought screen here

joel.tbarna - Contestar

I use chinese version of T3 screwdriver shipped with screen and T3/T4/T5 version of MATRIX tool set - both didnt fit for Moto X 1st gen screws. Only Bernstain T3 6-658 screwdriver fits ideally! Spent 2 days to find this tool. Be aware. Bought screen on

Anton Prilepsky - Contestar

I did this exactly as you said, but now i got a horrible problem... When I call or play whatsapp audios the screen turns black and it doesn't turn on again. I don't know WTF could have happened. Please I would thank a lot a bit of help.

claudiopalta - Contestar

Agregar Comentario

Ver Estadísticas:

Ultimas 24 Horas: 8

Últimos 7 Días: 55

Últimos 30 Días: 306

Todo El Tiempo: 97,705