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Qué necesitas
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Remueve los siguientes diez tornillos que aseguran la cubierta trasera a la cubierta superior.
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Tres tornillos tipo Philips (punta cruz) de 13.5 mm (14.1 mm)
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Cuando remuevas estos tornillos, ten en cuenta cómo salen en un ángulo ligero. Deben volverse a instalar de igual forma.
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Usa el borde del spudger para apalancar el conector de la batería hacia arriba del enchufe en la tarjeta lógica.
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Remueve los dos tornillos Tri-point de 7.4 mm que sujetan la batería a la caja superior.
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Despega con cuidado el extremo redondeado de la etiqueta de advertencia de la batería (el que no tiene pegamento) de la carcasa superior situada entre la batería y la unidad óptica para descubrir un tornillo Tri-point adicional.
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Remueve el último tornillo de tres puntos Y0 de 7.4 mm que sujeta la batería a la caja superior.
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Usa la lengüeta de plástico conectada para remover la batería de la caja trasera.
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Cárgala al 100 % y luego sigue cargándola durante al menos 2 horas. Luego, desenchúfala y úsala para drenar la batería. Cuando veas la advertencia de batería baja, guarda tu trabajo y mantén tu computadora portátil encendida hasta que se apague por batería baja. Espera al menos cinco horas, luego carga tu portátil ininterrumpidamente hasta 100%.
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Si notas algún comportamiento inusual o problemas luego de instalar tu batería nueva, podría necesitar restablecer el controlador de gestión de sistema de tu MacBook.
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Retire los siguientes tres tornillos que sujetan el ventilador izquierdo a la placa lógica:
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Dos tornillos Torx T6 de 3,5 mm.
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Un tornillo Torx T6 de 4,2 mm.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the right fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the three 3.4 mm (3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board.
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Lift the right fan out of its opening in the logic board.
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Pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the optical drive connector out of its socket on the logic board.
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Disconnect the hard drive/IR sensor cable from its socket on the logic board by lifting up from beneath its connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the subwoofer/right speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery indicator connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
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Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
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Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Remove the following nine screws:
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Seven 3.4 mm ( 3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws on the logic board
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Two 8 mm T6 Torx screws on the DC-In board
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Carefully lift the logic board assembly from its left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the optical drive cable and the I/O ports that may get caught during removal.
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If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to separate the microphone from the upper case.
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Pull the I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly.
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Remove the six #1 Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
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Suelte las pestañas en cada lado del chip RAM al empujar simultáneamente cada pestaña de la memoria RAM.
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Estas pestañas bloquean el chip en su lugar y su liberación hará que el chip "salte".
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Repita este proceso si hay un segundo chip RAM instalado.
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La placa lógica permanece. Si necesita volver a colocar el disipador de calor en la placa lógica, tenemos unaguía de pasta térmicaque facilita el reemplazo del compuesto térmico.
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Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
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9 comentarios
For step 5 and 6, maybe a reference could be added to a screwdriver for the Tri-wing screws - this seems quite difficult to find (and in the right size...).
Else I agree to what was said before - an excellent guide!
ifixit does it again. Thanks so much for making this resource available. Macbooks are so expensive and its great to be able to fix them and keep em going.
where's a good place to find decent condition logic boards My son was in Afghanistan and there for a long fricking time. While he was gone I had gotten him a MACBOOK Pro 15 loaded anyway It was made in mid-2012 He didn''t even get to use until he was home in 2015 and I hadn't used it. after a couple months he got the froze gray screen with apple logo. Called apple did every single thing possible. Finally they said bring into service center. I did they said would have to go in for repair and wasn't a retina display so I would have to pay . They couldn't tell me exact cost but esitmated at oveer $500.So I googled and I guess it's the graphics which you'd need to replace LB what do you think? Is there another fix? I can do work on windows stuff all the time just never Mac this will be my first. So need good sources if you can help I'd appreciate it. Russ
I have what appears to be a slightly different mainboard from all 15” unibody models. Could anybody help me identify my mainboard and maybe point me to the fuse for the LCD display back light ?
holy moly!!!!! i did it!!!! thank you TEAM iFIXIT!!!!! my mbp15 uni mid-2012 is once again a laptop, once again a computer, once again a tool for my art. Apple Store was going to charge me a lot, more than a replacement logic board, “if they could get one”. since i had done the fan on a 2009, RAM on the 2009 and this machine, and tightened up the screen hinge on this one (i bought it “refurbished”, turns out it has broken battery mounting lugs and was missing a hinge screw), so i figured, wth, lets do this. weeks of hemming and hawing, and i finally ordered the board for ~ $350. spent the morning working on it, forgot to latch the keyboard ZIF, so i had to backtrack, but otherwise, it works. the only thing was that i have to do a whole new backup (Time Machine), in progress now. now iʻm saving money to get a new battery and 1TB SSD, which should be a breeze after doing the logic board. gonna rehab my partnerʻs old white machine (2004?) sometime. one happy and relieved kitty girl here!!!!!