Introducción
Utilice esta guía para reemplazar un panel de vidrio de la pantalla frontal roto. Es necesario retirar el cristal de la pantalla frontal para acceder a la pantalla LCD. Aunque técnicamente no es necesario quitar la pantalla para acceder al cristal frontal, simplifica enormemente la tarea. Esta guía no' es aplicable a pantallas antirreflejos.
Qué necesitas
-
-
Con el estuche cerrado, coloca el Unibody boca arriba sobre una superficie plana.
-
Presiona el lado ranurado del pestillo de liberación de la puerta de acceso lo suficiente para agarrar el extremo libre. Levanta el pestillo de liberación hasta que quede vertical.
-
-
-
Agarra la lengüeta de plástico translúcido y extrae la batería de la Unibody.
-
Si se presiona el pestillo, se bloqueará la batería en su lugar.
Do I need to wait for the battery to charge completely before using the computer (while plugged in)?
No. You do not need to charge it completely before removing it.
-
-
-
Retira los siguientes ocho tornillos que sujetan la carcasa inferior al chasis:
-
Un tornillo Phillips de 5.4 mm.
-
Tres tornillos Phillips de 14 mm.
-
Cuatro tornillos Phillips de 3.5 mm.
Hi, My name is Jess I need help asap I accidentally dropped my macbook Pro and i cant find the silver screw for the top left back side, Does any one know if I can replace it with an eye glass screw?? If you can help at all Please e-mail me at Chambliss_jess@yahoo.com thx please help me my bf is going off... ;(
The fixit PH00 is the wrong screw driver for this entire job. It did not fit in the screws, it was too pointy and caused screws to be rounded off.
-
-
-
Usando ambas manos, levanta y retira la caja inferior de la caja superior.
About midway along each edge is a snap. To release each snap, gently slide the flat edge of a Spudger under the lower case, then lift the lower case away.
-
-
-
Desconecte el cable de la cámara tirando del extremo macho directamente desde su zócalo hacia la abertura de la unidad óptica.
-
Desvíe el cable de datos de la cámara del canal de la unidad óptica.
I have a problem with previous made unprofessional teardown of this mac, and the port that the camera cable is connected to, on the m-board, is cracked, because somebody pulled it straight up .. can someone please, share an idea about the way of fixing it, or maybe a name of the part i need ?
-
-
-
Retire los dos tornillos Phillips que sujetan el soporte del cable de la cámara a la caja superior.
-
Separe el soporte del cable de la cámara del cable de la cámara y retírelo del ordenador.
For reassembly, it would improve the instructions to note the exact orientation of the camera cable, as well as the LVDS cable, in these steps (7-10). This avoids confusion as to where those cables go when the display is reattached (working steps 11-13 in reverse).
As viewed from the orientation of the laptop at this point (looking into the motherboard from the underside), these cables are routed ABOVE the mounting plates for the hinges.
Viewed from the front of the machine (as it would be sitting on the desk in front of you during normal use), they are routed BELOW those plates.
-
-
-
-
Retire los dos tornillos Torx exteriores de 6 mm que sujetan cada lado de la pantalla a la caja superior (cuatro tornillos en total).
Ccouldn't make it past step 10 as the two T6 screws on the right stripped. I was using the correct tool, correctly seated, but the screws were simply unwilling to turn and the screw head gave out before they turned at all. The ones on the left came out alright, but there seems to be some type of thread glue on them. Recommendations on how to break that seal without stripping the screw heads might be a good idea. Otherwise - be forewarned.
I have the same problem with step 10. Can't remove the screw on the left, it is all damaged.
-
-
-
Abra su MacBook Pro de modo que la pantalla quede perpendicular a la carcasa superior.
-
Coloque su MacBook Pro abierta sobre una mesa como se muestra en la imagen.
-
Mientras sostiene la pantalla y la carcasa superior con la otra mano, retire el tornillo Torx de 6 mm del soporte inferior de la pantalla.
Unlock without removing them , the two remaining center 6mm Torx screws securing the display to the upper case.
-
-
-
Retire el último tornillo Torx de 6 mm restante que sujeta la pantalla a la carcasa superior.
One of the Torx screws holding the Display in place failed to come out. I tried too hard and it shredded the head of the screw so there was no physical leverage to the screw driver, so I left it to avoid any further damage.
So instead I removed ‘not’the torx screw on the computer but the one on the display itself. There are three on the inner part of the screen, two facing the display and the third on the other side. It sled out easily.
It only added a couple of minutes to my time removing it.
But a word of caution, you must remove the long plastic housing that holds the cables for the iSight and display, just be gentle and slide it off trying not to snag the cables, it should come off easy.
-
-
-
Sostenga la carcasa superior con la mano derecha y gírela ligeramente hacia la parte superior de la pantalla para que el soporte de la pantalla superior despeje el borde de la carcasa superior.
-
Gire la pantalla ligeramente alejándola de la carcasa superior.
-
Levante la pantalla para separarla de la carcasa superior, teniendo en cuenta los soportes o cables que puedan quedar atrapados.
If I purchase a MBP 15' for parts that has a good top case, LCD and Glass, could I stop at Step 14, replace the entire top case and reverse from Step 13 to put it back together? Or do I need to proceed with steps 14 to 21, loosening the glue, lifting the glass, replacing the LCD?
-
-
-
Antes de comenzar, asegúrese de limpiar el cristal de la pantalla con un paño sin pelusa humedecido con una solución suave; Hará que la ventosa se adhiera mejor y facilitará la comprobación de polvo al volver a montarla.
-
Con la pistola de calor en posición baja, comience calentando el borde negro exterior cerca de la esquina superior derecha del panel de vidrio.
Another caution is needed - the heat gun is capable of discoloring the LCD panel (giving uneven coloration) if it overheats. This is possible on the low setting. Proceed cautiously, heating in increments until the glass releases.
I was wondering the same, is absolutely necessary to disassemble the screen to change the glass? Can I jump to step 21?
To change just the glass I used a hair dryer it gives off enough heat to do the job. Stand the computer up on its cover with the key board standing up.start at a corner heat the adhesive as you go along. I Put credit cards in as I went along so the adhesive doesn't stick again. take your time . Its easy.
-
-
-
Con el panel suficientemente calentado, fije una ventosa resistente cerca de la esquina superior derecha del cristal de la pantalla.
-
Lenta y suavemente retire la esquina del cristal de la pantalla del ensamblaje de la pantalla.
Sufficiently heated is a meaningless phrase here. Is it two minutes? Three? Fifteen? An hour? I have tried doing this for increasing amounts of time while avoiding doing damage to the machine, and nothing is working. Sufficient heating needs definition.
Hi Keith, the key here is that you want to warm the adhesive that's spread thoroughly behind the masked-black area of the glass around the screen to release, but not put enough heat at the rubber gasket that seals the closed top lid to the base. Too much heat, too soon, will deform the rubber. Too much and you'll never get the glass to release. The 2x that I have done this, however, even with sufficient (and significant) heat, I remember the glass taking a surprising amount of leverage to pull clear. A tactic: using your heat gun warm all the sides of the display from the front, in a circulating/racetrack fashion - about 20 rpm. After 30sec, focus on the left and top sides, seesawing from bottom left, to top left, to top right, and back. Do that at the same pace, about 5-10 passes. Then spend about 10 sec waving over the whole top left corner. That should get enough heat to enough places to help the glass separate to start placing picks, and you can continue to heat the margins as you progress.
-
-
-
Levante con cuidado la esquina del cristal de la pantalla lo suficiente como para insertar un spudger entre este y el ensamblaje de la pantalla.
-
Utilice el extremo plano de un espátula para levantar suavemente el adhesivo que fija el cristal frontal a la pantalla.
-
Levante el panel de vidrio a unos centímetros de la esquina superior derecha a lo largo de los bordes superior y derecho de la pantalla.
Be patient and work slowly or else you will crack the glass like me.
I can not get the glass to come up despite two tries and dicsoloring the LCD with too much heat. Why can't I get the glass to budge at all?
It is better , instead of using the suction cup , to use small flat end spudger . The suction cup should be used first to detach the window from the gasket , not furthermore as it may brake the glass.
I didn’t have large suction cups and the small ones didn’t work for me. Instead, I used an opening tool to pry up the glass slightly and got a guitar pick under it. Then I slowly worked the pick around the top three sides of the glass, heating sections of glue as I went.
I’ve managed to do it using hair dryer on max. First corner was though and took a lot of time to lift it. I decided to heat not only a corner but whole length and then it came off. I’ve put so much heat that was afraid I’ve damaged LCD, but it works fine. As BillyRachel1 said: patience is the way. In order to assemble it back I used old glue heated again. It’s easy but takes time.
Note: Don’t do this at home if you have cats otherwise you going to spend next hour or so trying to remove their fur from between glass and LCD. It’s because they all levitate after using hot air and just wait to stick to the screen again.
To be honest hardest thing was replacing clutch cover, took me so much time and I eventually cracked it.
-
-
-
Utilice una pistola de calor para ablandar el adhesivo debajo de la tira negra a lo largo del lado derecho del panel de vidrio frontal.
-
Coloque una ventosa a lo largo del lado derecho del panel de vidrio frontal.
-
Levante el panel de vidrio mientras usa el extremo plano de una espátula para separarlo del resto del ensamblaje de la pantalla.
I used old credit cards
-
-
-
Utilice su pistola de calor para ablandar el adhesivo debajo de la tira negra a lo largo del borde superior del panel de vidrio.
-
Coloque una ventosa cerca del borde superior del panel de vidrio de la pantalla y úsela para levantar el panel de vidrio de la pantalla.
-
Trabaja a lo largo del borde superior del panel de vidrio, usando con cuidado el extremo plano de un spudger para separar el adhesivo si es necesario.
-
-
-
Use una pistola de calor para ablandar el adhesivo debajo de la tira negra cerca de la esquina superior izquierda del panel de vidrio.
-
Coloque una ventosa cerca de la esquina superior izquierda del panel de visualización de vidrio.
-
Levante la ventosa y use el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar con cuidado el panel de vidrio del ensamblaje de la pantalla.
-
-
-
Utilice una pistola de calor para ablandar el adhesivo debajo de la tira negra a lo largo del lado izquierdo del panel de vidrio frontal.
-
Coloque una ventosa a lo largo del lado izquierdo del panel de vidrio frontal.
-
Levante el panel de vidrio mientras usa el extremo plano de un spudger para separarlo del resto del ensamblaje de la pantalla.
-
Continúe trabajando a lo largo del borde izquierdo del cristal de la pantalla frontal hasta que se separe de la pantalla.
-
-
-
Ahora que los bordes superior, izquierdo y derecho del vidrio están libres de la pantalla, levante lentamente el borde superior del panel de vidrio y gírelo suavemente para sacarlo de la pantalla.
If you will be reusing the glass, with new adhesive, then you will want to remove the old adhesive. This is a bit of a pain, as alcohol doesn't work, and you need to be careful to avoid damaging the black screen border, which is black paint on the back (adhesive) side of the glass.
To remove the adhesive, note that it is actually a thin film with rubber cement on both sides. First, use a razor to carefully pull up one corner of the film and gently peel it off of the glass. If you are gentle and slow, the underlying adhesive may also come off; if not, then rubbing with your finger or a hard rubber eraser will do the trick.
If this is a rubber cement based glue, then would rubber solvent / thinner like N-Heptane help the removal process without damaging the black paint ?
Don’t remove glue. Just reuse it by heating and sticking it again.
-
-
-
Inserte el borde de una herramienta de apertura de plástico entre el cristal de la pantalla y el soporte de la cámara, y páselo alrededor del soporte de la cámara para separarlo del cristal de la pantalla.
-
-
-
Para volver a conectar el cable, primero use la punta de una espátula para quitar el trozo de cinta de espuma sobre el conector ZIF del cable de la cámara.
-
Utilice la punta de una espátula para levantar el retenedor del cable ZIF en el zócalo del cable de la cámara.
-
Inserte el cable de la cámara en su zócalo en la placa de la cámara y use la punta de una espátula para bajar el retenedor del cable ZIF, bloqueando el cable en su lugar.
-
Para volver a ensamblar su dispositivo, siga estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a ensamblar su dispositivo, siga estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
30 personas más completaron esta guía.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
Estos traductores nos están ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
The A1286 has no Access Door.!!
I actually can see no sign of the battery!...
aguib - Contestar
I assume you have the newer model, with the built-in battery. It's still removable with tools, but these are the wrong instructions for that model.
lgc90 - Contestar
when will there be a guide for the other unibody macbook pro. that does not have an access door?
irishking - Contestar
Is there a manual to show, how disasembly the display, i mean, after step 5, to check the display between lcd and aluminiun back case?
Max
Max - Contestar
On other guides you state the height of the HD that can be supported, e.g. Reemplazo del disco duro del MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Model A1211 , I have read ( but have not confirmed ) that the uni-body MacBook Pro can be fitted with the 750GB and 1TB 12mm drive from Western Digital.
Can you confirm this?
Many thanks in advance.
ahothabeth - Contestar
My display and aluminum casing has separated.
I don't know if it just snaps back together or does it need to be glued.
I dropped mine on the carpeted stairs and the display still works.
I'm hoping I can just snap it back together and that no plastic pieces or teeth of the snapping
portion have been broken........
SHerwood Ball - Contestar
When you say "left fan" is this "left when looking at the logic board after turning the computer over and looking it up opening it up" or "left when sitting at the computer keyboard and typing on it"?
thvv - Contestar
We always use left and right in reference to the computer when you're using it.
Andrew Optimus Goldheart -
Directions were great and the worn dc in board was replaced. The hardest part of the procedure is disconnecting the data display cable. A better description of step 21 is to slide the connector parallel to the circuit board towards the outside corner. Reconnecting correctly took several tries.
I used the tip of the spudger to nudge the corners a little at a time to seat the connector.
The ribbon connector for the keyboard has to be inserted all the way before seating the retaining cap. It took me three tries . First try power button did not work second try numbers keys did not work.
Thanks for the directions ...could not have done it with out them!!!
landryd - Contestar
Hola. Poseo un MacBook Pro Late 2008 y debo cambiarle las cornetas. Me sirve unas cornetas de un MBP Late 2011?
jegonzalez80 - Contestar
Please read the instructions about removing the bluetooth cable - you CAN work around it, and NOT take off the plug.
kenneth krabat - Contestar