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Introducción

A summary of the tricks when disassembling the Jura drainage valve.

  1. When lots of water leaks under a Jura brew-group it could be a broken sealring at the drainage. The first sealring is shown inside the white circle. This sealring has a lot of mechanical stress because at this point the brew-group moves up and down. From here comes the fresh water. The screwdrivers points at the metal spring-claw to pull off. For this guide i have chosen a cleaned drainage valve. In real maintenance it will be extremly filthy, greasey and lots of coffee crumbs will trickle down. Use papertowel, toothpick,. toothbrush and degreasespray and clean everything under water. Turn the valve and use the screwdriver to leverage the white part with the spring. It should come up; if nothing moves it needs better cleaning because the grease here is very sticky.
    • When lots of water leaks under a Jura brew-group it could be a broken sealring at the drainage. The first sealring is shown inside the white circle. This sealring has a lot of mechanical stress because at this point the brew-group moves up and down. From here comes the fresh water. The screwdrivers points at the metal spring-claw to pull off.

    • For this guide i have chosen a cleaned drainage valve. In real maintenance it will be extremly filthy, greasey and lots of coffee crumbs will trickle down. Use papertowel, toothpick,. toothbrush and degreasespray and clean everything under water.

    • Turn the valve and use the screwdriver to leverage the white part with the spring. It should come up; if nothing moves it needs better cleaning because the grease here is very sticky.

    • Now all the parts should fall off the valve block. Hold your hand above it because the spring could snap away.

  2. Here you can clearly see how that docking-part works. That seal has big mechanical stress because here the piston docks on. Here you can clearly see how that docking-part works. That seal has big mechanical stress because here the piston docks on.
    • Here you can clearly see how that docking-part works. That seal has big mechanical stress because here the piston docks on.

  3. The parts of the valve. You can see the two bigger rings: they are located INSIDE the big T-tube.
    • The parts of the valve. You can see the two bigger rings: they are located INSIDE the big T-tube.

    • The FLAT side of the big sealrings point to OUTSIDE left and right. All plastic-parts have notches, look for them when reassembling these parts.

    • The white fresh water hose has a metal spring-claw, too and can also pulled away if consisted.

    • When reassembling use a little bit of food-silicone-grease on every sealring.

  4. Clean and grease all selrings with food-silicone-grease. When reassembling start with the part as shown on the first photo. Don't forget the sealring on both ends ! Second and third picture show the ready assembled valve: Push the white part with the spring together and insert it in the valve-block. You see the notches, they only fit in one direction. :) I now understand that my camera is bad, I hope I may buy a better one.
    • Clean and grease all selrings with food-silicone-grease.

    • When reassembling start with the part as shown on the first photo. Don't forget the sealring on both ends !

    • Second and third picture show the ready assembled valve: Push the white part with the spring together and insert it in the valve-block. You see the notches, they only fit in one direction. :) I now understand that my camera is bad, I hope I may buy a better one.

  5. The first picture shows the drainage-valve-block from the right side. The white, round part must sit in center of the circle, otherwise it won't close and water will run through it. Push it sometimes it should move easy. Don't forget the spring-claw to secute the tube from the valve.
    • The first picture shows the drainage-valve-block from the right side. The white, round part must sit in center of the circle, otherwise it won't close and water will run through it.

    • Push it sometimes it should move easy.

    • Don't forget the spring-claw to secute the tube from the valve.

    • That's it, now you can replace the drainage valve back in the brew-group of your nice Jura. :)

    • You can find another Jura Drainage Valve Teardown, there are many better pictures to help you better. :)

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

6 personas más completaron esta guía.

Schwarzstein

Miembro Desde 15/07/13

2,633 Reputación

13 Guías creadas

When brewing unit assembled, whre is a gap 1 mm between tube of drain valve and docking hole of piston, so water pass down. How to fix it?

Andrii - Contestar

Maybe my answer is a little bit to late. I cannot imagine that there is a gap. I suppose you lost the gasket. This ring normally can easily be bought at a jura supplier. Dont forget to apply a little bit of food-proof silicone lubricant.

VauWeh - Contestar

On the Jura Impressa Z9 the drain valve has a back cover that is fixed. Can it be removed to overhaul the valve, and if so how is it put back to gether?

Darryl - Contestar

I'm sure there is a method to remove it. Perhaps this helps. Did you already open the brewing unit?

VauWeh -

Jura ENA 5 Drain valve is similar but I have a problem where water and steam leaks from the nipple after the rinse has been completed. It seems like there is pressure build up and the valve cannot hold. I have 2x ENA 5 machines. I have tried 2 different drain valve assemblies and both leak on one faulty machine. Could this be related to the PCB? If I don’t turn off the power quickly when the steam leak starts, the overheat fuse will break on the water block and cause Error 1.

It seems the water heater block can not control the heat and causes the drain valve to leak steam. I have error 1 (from water block overheat). I replaced the fuse and again steam comes out the drain valve. How to test the PCB to confirm?

Stu - Contestar

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