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Need help interpreting my ohm meter, any help?

I use an ohm meter w a needle. Testing the dryer switch that starts the whirlpool dryer. Hooked up my meter to the back two terminals, set the meter to ohms. I pressed the switch, the needle jumps to “0”. Does that mean there is NO resistance in the switch circuitry, meaning no breaks in the circuitry? And the switch is good? I release the switch, the needle drops to at rest.

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Where do i read the model number? I have a skematic. Its electric maybe 10+ years old. Its in great shape. I plan to replace several switches next, they only cost $11 for set.

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That's right, @johnrobins41607, you are reading the meter correctly. The meter is measuring Ohms, or units of resistance. Zero Ohms does indeed mean no resistance, which is what you should see when a switch is closed.

What's going on with your dryer that you're checking the lid switch for? We'd be happy to help, but the model number of it is needed if you want some assistance.

Update (08/14/23)

@johnrobins41607 The model number is usually on a silver plate just inside the door jamb; you should see it when you open the dryer door. Here's where Whirlpool says it should be.

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Update (08/14/23)

Ah, okay. Appliance Parts Pros has a page specific to your dryer with troubleshooting steps and causes for each particular problem listed.

Whirlpool Dryer LER3624EQ1 Repair and Troubleshooting

You'll want the section titled "LER3624EQ1 Won't start". In it, they list the most common faults in order of occurrence. Here's what they say to check.

  1. Dryer Thermal Fuse - 66% of the time
  2. Dryer Drive Motor - 10% of the time
  3. Door Latch Kit - 5% of the time
  4. Whirlpool Dryer Belt - 4% of the time
  5. Start Switch - 3% of the time
  6. Switch-Door - less than 1% of the time
  7. Female Dryer Door Catch - less than 1% of the time
  8. Terminal and Wire Kit - less than 1% of the time

I'm assuming the last item has to do with a bad wire terminal that needs to be replaced on some connector somewhere.

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LER3624E01 Is on the door opening

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@johnrobins41607 I suspect that trailing "0" is actually a "Q", but anyway good to have a model number but you still haven't said what it is you're trying to accomplish with your testing and switch replacement. What's wrong with the dryer that got you started with all this?

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Oh, sorry, it wont start up, so i tested the starter switch first. Next to replace 4 switches.

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Yes, it is “Q”, sorry

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Mr. Wheeler, or anyone:

• Replaced & tested the Dryer Thermal Fuse, it is closed or no resistance.

• Checked Start Switch - I measured and it was operating, on, and off.

• Replaced the Heating Element

• Replaced the High Limit Thermostat

• Replaced the Cycling Thermostat

• Replaced the Thermal Cut-0ff

Update: Last night the dryer operated great except no heat, so replaced the Heat Element (which was broken) & High Limit Thermostat, today.

Got the machine closed up, all wires connected correctly I thought, hit the start button. NOTHING. Why? All I did was replace the heat element. I took pictures of the connections. They are correct. Got to be.

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