bypass or fix Whirlpool lid lock

Hi everyone!

I am in Peru and i am not sure what is causing my error in the lid lock mechanism. I get the Lid Switch Fault.

The machine is a 4GWTW4800YQ. It is not starting. If i get it to start it oftens stops directly with blinking fill light, otherwise if it gets passed that it will leave the laundry wet without spinning. I was recommended to order a new latch.
Instead of trying to order the parts from the USA and wait a long time, i would like to create a workaround.

Below are the lock mechanism and the diagram. The arrow points towards the contact point that seems to be operated by the latch's magnet.

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I hope someone can suggest a workaround or the way to bypass the whole lid switch all together?? I appreciate it thanks! The machine is used in a hostel. No children around. ; -)

Thanks so much!

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A basic washing machine uses a timer to mechanically switch power to motor and water valves. The electro mechanical lid lock using the electric solenoid uses electrical contacts to close or open circuits as a safety feature preventing motor operation when someone tries to open the lid during a power cycle. Relays switches and timers are the basic analog controls to ensure safe operation. The solenoid may have failed to power up with an open coil of you don't hear a click sound when turning on the washer. The solenoid provides the physical locking mechanism while the electrical contacts provides power to circuits only when the solenoid is powered up. Someone with electrical knowledge should be able to determine if the solenoid failed and halt machine operation. Replacement may be found searching online or washer repair shops.

Bypassing this interlock requires understanding washing machine logic of when this solenoid powers up, if it de-energizes at some point and re-energizes again before de-energizing after a full wash cycle. Energizing and de-energizing controls the electrical contacts controlling circuits to motor and water valves via the timer switches. Wiring diagrams only show electrical paths. They don't explain the logic involved in circuitry.

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Thanks so much F Dryer! That is a great explanation and it's appreciated! I understand by now that is likely best to replace the lock altogether and get the machine to work properly. I do get the clicks and it is clearly the solenoid is working to some extent. It could be the magnetic switch operated by the latch, i am going to bridge that connection as been shown in some information on YouTube. If that does not work i will give up and order the part. Thanks again!

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When i do this, i will make sure to disconnect the washing machine after every use, just in case.

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Magnetic switch as in a magnet operating a sealed magnetically operated reed switch? A reed switch in vehicles may use a float containing a small powerful magnet free to slide up and down a pole inside coolant containers in vehicles. Inside the pole is a sealed waterproof glass encapsulated tiny reed switch, opening or closing by magnetic attraction. Mounted about 1/2 half way from empty of a coolant container. Usually filled to around 2/3rds, the float is above the reed switch which remains open (for this discussion). If for some reason coolant is lost then coolant is lowered and if the float is low enough to be in the vicinity of the reed switch, magnetic attraction closes this switch sending a signal to the engine or body computer, turning on the low coolant indicator. Refill coolant back to correct level and the float rises away from the switch, opening its contacts, turning off the low coolant indicator.

The electric solenoid with many turns of copper wire needs power (120 or 220 vac) to energize it.

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