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Modelo A1312 / Mediados de 2011 / Procesador Core i5 de 2.7 & 3.1 GHz o Core i7 de 3.4 GHz

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desolder and solder j9001 dp pwr connector: location, tool, skill requ

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Dear iMac talents,

My imac screen dropped accidentally and one connector was partially broken. I want to replace the broken connector on logic board.

Questions:

  1. Refer to photo, are there only 2 points to be desolder? E1 and E2 only?

# Refer to photo, For points J1-J6, were these 6 points soldered or simply physically detachable/pluggable by hands?

  1. If desolder, what minimum tools are required? Copper?
  2. If soldering, what minimum tools required? Tin?

# What size of soldering tip is necessary? The 6 points look very close to each other.

# What temperature needed to avoid melting the connector plastic? Is temperature only subject to the melting point of the hard plastic of connector?

# What composition and ratios of alloy / metals is required?

  1. What minimum tools required?

Update (06/17/2022)

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After all, i removed the front plate, and the logic board 6 pins are slightly erected 90 degree /perpendicular to the floor, and embraces the cable connector. Good result here.

(My solder skill is poor. The logic board connector is resistant to my 450 Celsius degree /60watt solder.

also i cannot afford buying a professional hot wind gun station.

The above solution is quite specific to my case. Because my J9001 logic board connector 'case' was particularly broken and 6 pins are undamaged. )

Thanks Dan, oldturkey3, and others.

Update (06/17/2022)

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This should be today final outcome, replacing previous wrong photo inserted in previous reply. My apologies.

Btw, why ipad cannot post anything on this forum?

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There are eight contacts! The two odd ones are for strength so when you press the cable connection it you don't lift the connector off the board (and ground). The six others are the meat of the connection.

These are hard connectors to de-solder! Between the wattage of the iron and the tips mass you are likely to lift a pad which you don't want to do!

The best way I have found is to first lift every so little the two top contacts so they are not soldered down. To do that I add a bit of solder! Yep! On both with a high wattage Iron then using Solder Wick I pull off all the solder while also lifting ever so slightly the contact so it is broken free one side then the other.

Now the tricky part! The other six! Here we need to desolder all of the points at the same time! If you don't you'll rip off a pad!

To do this we need to again add solder in this case we want to flood all of the pins with one blob of solder so all of the pins are wet and in a fluid state make sure the blob is not allowed to cool. At some point the connector should just slip off with very little pressure!

The key here is the iron needs to be a high enough wattage unit and the tip needs to be physically large so it can backup a sizable volume of heat. Think of it this way a 1/2 pint of water won't put out a fire where 20 buckets full of water will! Heat is the same the needed heat needs to be what the part needs to keep hot enough for the solder to liquify and long enough. A small SMD pencil tipped iron won't do here a tin smiths sized 150Watt is needed!

Personally, I find using a Hot Air station easier as I can heat the contacts without the needed mass of solder an iron would take. But you need to use care! As the air flow needs to be focused so you don't heat neighboring parts or cause heat damages hielding is important and skill!

OK, lets move on once the old part is off (who cares if its damaged as we need a new part)

You'll need to first clean up the area for any solder that got loose and clean up the pads using Solder Wick and or a hand vacuum pump (anti-static) I use a small vacuum pump with a hose and wand designed for the task. Using my smaller iron cleaning up the larger blobs and then I go over the pads with Solder Wick so all thats left is a smooth clean set of pads (all eight) I tin the pads of the connector so there is some solder (not much) so I can position it on the board and tack it down (the two ground contacts) then I carefully secure the other eight, making sure not to bridge any connections.

Use a good quality solder and paste flux - If you haven't soldered this is not the first thing I would do find an old dead TV or Radio to practice on. Desolder the small components and resolder them then go after the bigger ones so you get an idea how the irons size matters! A small pencil is what you need for the small stuff, but you need larger irons as the size of the contacts get larger as well as how the heat is absorbed by the copper on the logic board as well as the given components legs.

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Tools I use:

Weller W60P3 60Watts/120V Soldering Iron

Weller W100PG 100 Watt Heavy Duty Soldering Iron for the big stuff!

They don't make the small 40Watt station I use for SMD work here's a similar iron

Weller WMRP Micro Soldering Iron Pencil

I use the following Flux:

Amtech NC-559-V2-TF Tacky Flux for SMD work

Kester 1544 Liquid Soldering Flux for when I just need to tin a larger pad and contact like this connector.

For Solder I use:

44 Flux-Cored Wire And use both Lead free and Lead (for high temp parts)

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hi Dan,

After reading your super long list of tools, i think i need to reconsider my desolder and solder project...

Grateful to your sharing. U are a genius in imac. Today should award your an imac Nobel Prize to Dan.

calvin

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@ninjasdu - You likely can get away with the 60Watt iron for this job. Even still practice on some junk boards to get comfortable at the task.

Sometimes we look at ice skaters and other athletes doing incredible skating or other activities, we fail to realize the amount of practice and skill it takes. Soldering is no different it takes a bit of work to be comfortable at least its not as hard as a Triple-Axial!

If you're good, don't forget to accept the answer!

- de

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