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Released on July 28th, 2017, the New Nintendo 2DS XL is a handheld gaming console succeeding the Nintendo 2DS.

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After swapping C stick and circle pad caps, ZL button causes shutdown.

After following the guide that shows how to swap the buttons, which is very misleading on the steps with connectors that are NOT ZIF connectors and yet they say to lift the “latch”, which will result in destroying the connectors, the ZL button seems to short something and shuts down the console.

During disassembly at step 11 I unfortunately followed the misleading step a bit and lifted the “not actually a latch” on the non-ZIF connector a few degrees, which felts extremely wrong to do and I immediately stopped and checked comments. I closed back the connector as well as I could and I think the ribbon cable makes good contact but maybe it broke something, I do not know. If anyone else have a similar issue please share, I’m at lost, I disassembled it all and reassembled it, checking for anything stuck to the pcb or ribbon cables that were not connected correctly and couldn’t see anything, I’m truly at lost right now.

Pressing the ZL button even when the shell is opened causes a shutdown as well, so it’s not a mechanical cause. Also when the console was closed and it did this crash one of the speakers made a high pitch noise when the short happened, and it shuts down way too fast to be a software error.

I have a multimeter, oscilloscope and other tools necessary to diagnostic electronics but unfortunately I don’t have the knowledge to diagnose this particular device, so please if someone knows something that can help, share your knowledge.

Note: Other than the ZL button causing a potential short and shutting the console down, everything else works flawlessly, I was playing a game for 30+min after first reassembly of the 2DS and after that I had a need to press the ZL button, it happened then.

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Found the culprit, the console boots and does not have any problem if I hold down the connector closed. They should really redo those guides, it’s insane, following the guide makes the console dead.

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Alright, not a perfect solution but way better than having to find the name of the connector and somehow replacing it.

I cut extremely narrow strips of kapton tape, maybe 2mm wide at most, and layered two on top of the ribbon cable where it gets inserted into the connector. This made it thicker in this area, where the connector has been loosened from getting pulled open and somehow it works. I can boot up the console, poke the connector, press ZL and nothing disconnects anymore!

Of course if someday I find the need to replace the connector properly I’ll do it, but for now this seems to work.

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