Shutter replacement tutorial guide

easy fix.

get a new shutter module installed by service people (pricey!)

OR

remove battery, take back off (the flash mount has hidden screws under the springy thing) , remove processing board, remove sensor board and you have access to remove the shutter module.

respect the fragile flex connectors!!

my shutter jammed mysteriously, but was able to power the motor externally with a 3volt lithium cell, it went through a few cycles and returned to the closed state replaced it and all was well again. probably my battery was low or other and the syncronization went out, leaving it in an unknown state for the processor to detect.. once that happens it never gets powered again,leaving the camera as good as a brick.

.

I cant find how to remove the sensor board to get to the shutter module.

Please help

always detach the flexible cables with utmost care.

as they come into view, detach them. the connectors soldered onto the boards are FRAGILE, never force anything. they will easily release the flex cables when you flip up the lock part. its usually a different color than the body of the connector.

be gentle, persistent. use plastic tools

NEVER use metallic cheap screwdrivers, pryers or knive edges! get a good set of Wiha screwdrivers too.

the process is sequential, once the back cover is off, remove the cpu board, there's flex connectors to release.

there's a really fragile wire attached to the WIFI thing (or microphone) use caution , small and easy to damage

remove the sensor board. there's three screws with tough springs, that keep it aligned, with some terribly hard fixation glue to prevent them from moving. some other screws also. try to remember how may turns you use to get them off, that will allow you to get the sensor somewhat back into alignment when you put it back on.

once that is off, the shutter module is right there.

on reassembly, the sensor plane may be a fraction 'off' , but if you forget the turns, try to keep them all the same, that should get it within useable tolerances

(the case and other parts are made with very tight tolerance to ensure accurate assembly from the start)

most people wont even notice the loss of aperture/focal plane error if its a few degrees out of whack.

professionals will complain, and they can pay to send to a professional repair at professional prices.