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Samsung washer - Stops mid-cycle

This Samsung WA456DRHDWR AA Washing Machine is less than 3 years old and seems to be having massive failures. It's a top-loader. At first I was getting errors codes indicating that there was an issue with the water level sensor. I replaced this part and no longer get those codes. But the washer continues to stop mid-cycle. It seems to stop anytime it is trying to transition from one cycle stage to the next (from wash to rinse, or from rinse to spin). If I stop the cycle and try to restart (or power it down then try), it will not restart at all. The only way I have found to get it to restart is to unplug the machine for an hour or more, then start over with whatever cycle I need at that point (full cycle, rinse and spin, or spin only).

I pulled the drain pump off and made sure nothing was stuck and it seems to be functioning correctly most times. Also, the water inlet, door lock, etc all seem to be functioning correctly. I am thinking that this is an issue with the control board and it will need to be replaced.

I am trying to find the easiest way to diagnose the control board since it is an expensive part. Of course Samsung is completely useless in helping or making good on this issue which seems to be prevalent on other forums.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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I could have written this post. Other than the fact that I have the wf42h5400af/a2 front loader you had the same issue as I am having. Did not want to pay $100 for a diagnosis so Youtube and I pulled out the drain pump and checked with a multimeter and for clogs in connectors . Everything was good. Put back together started a rinse and spin cycle and it worked. Then tried to do a small wash and 9 minutes in it stopped again. ugh.

This post is old but wondering if anyone has had a similar issue and figured out the issue.

Thanks

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I am having the issue with my Samsung front loader also... it is almost 4 years old and just started this behavior. Samsung was my last bastion of hope for a quality electronics company... losing faith slowly but surely.

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Not wanting to give up I ordered the motherboard on Amazon. Found it used for $39. Installed yesterday. This did not resolve the issue. Washer will not go into spin and yesterday gave me 3E error code. So is the drive motor the problem? I'm not sure at this point if I will order the drive motor and try this or not. When the technician was out he tried to remove the stator but could not pull it off. But he thought most likely it was a motherboard issue. At this point I think I'm buying new with long warranty. They Make garbage nowadays. This $749 4 year old washer replaced a 20 year old $250 washer. SMH.

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As a Technician, I tell everyone who buys all these new non agitator washers to get the 5 years on them being most of the time we get out to take a peak at them we end up writing up for a replacment. Junk is whats out there these days. Stay away from Samsung and Lg. When looking into a washer get a front loader thats not a Samsung or Lg.

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I have a different issue, but called Samsung yesterday and they informed me that the drive motors come with a 3 or 5 year parts warranty, depending on your model. So don't autimoaticlly assume you're on the hook for the part if the washer is out of the 1 year warranty period. You may still be able to get the expensive part for free...although you'll have to pay to have it installed, or install yourself.

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mmaness0, try to place the washer in service mode to see if and what error it may give you. The steps are very convoluted and a PITA (Samsung does not make it easy). So, to begin you will need to enter the Service Mode, press the Delay Start and AquaJetTM(WA456*)/Extra Rinse(WA422*/ WA400*) Keys for 3 seconds or until the unit sends out beeping sounds. After that follow more of the instruction from the technical manual which you can download from the bottom of this page. Remember that this model is plagued with various faults and a bad wiring harness. You may be going down a very long and deep rabbit hole:-) ==>> asc20130509001.pdf<<== service bulletin

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I have already done the service mode and all the various tests included in that. They didn't provide me any additional clues. It didn't give me any additional errors codes beyond the sporadic codes I already saw in regular mode, also the drain pump test, etc would work half the time, not work the other half. The issue seems to be so sporadic and the symptoms so random, which is why I was thinking it is an issue with the control board (IE the brain is fried and doing all kinds of strange things).

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I had the same issue with the machine stopping mid cycle with no error codes. The service technician told me that when it stops without an error code, there’s nothing wrong. It never failed while the tech was in the home. The tech explained that when the machine stops, it is having trouble balancing the load. Sometimes it won’t turn at all right from the get go even when empty so something must be wrong. Once the machine was in the “failed state” then running the service mode it does give 3c2 error. The tech ordered a new motor, wiring harness, and inverter board. He replaced the inverter board only first, and this did the trick.

I have had the washer stop once since then but there was a weighted blanket rolled up tightly and after unrolling it and restarting, the cycle completed.

Replace inverter board or check cable connections to inverter board.

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It is the door lock which act as a electric relay that pass electric current to the motor to turn or spin. If not functioning right, your machine will not turn sometimes in mid cycle, or give 3E error.

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My washer is displaying 3E, but after servicing the hall sensor the error disappeared, but the washer is not competing any cycle, at times you can find it on 44mins then it shifts back to 47.

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If the door lock is defective, the washer may stop mid cycle. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it.

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When I run into something like this, I unplug everything from the control panel then plug it all back in, making sure everything is seated snugly. It’s like a reset x 2, and this usually fixes the issue.

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The problem probably with the float/tube. It’s not signaling correctly/ is sticking, causing the machine to not recognize when it’s reached full/needs to empty.

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