Introducción
Utilice esta guía para reemplazar una placa MagSafe DC-In rota.
Qué necesitas
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Extrae los siguientes diez tornillos:
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Tres tornillos Phillips #00 de 14.4 mm
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Tres tornillos Phillips #00 de 3.5 mm
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Cuatro tornillos de resalto Phillips #00 de 3.5 mm
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Usa el borde de un spudger para levantar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca para extraer su toma de corriente de la placa madre.
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Utilice el borde de un spudger para hacer palanca suavemente hacia arriba y hacia afuera del conector del ventilador en la placa lógica.
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Tenga cuidado de no romper el enchufe de plástico del ventilador de la placa lógica mientras utiliza su spudger para levantar el conector del ventilador hacia arriba y fuera de su enchufe. El diseño de la placa lógica que se muestra en la segunda imagen puede ser ligeramente diferente al de su máquina, pero el enchufe del ventilador es el mismo.
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Utiliza la punta de un spudger para sacar el cable del altavoz/subwoofer derecho por debajo del dedo de retención moldeado en la caja superior.
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Jala el cable del altavoz/subwoofer derecho hacia arriba para sacar el conector de su enchufe en la placa lógica.
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Acopla los muchos conectores cerca de sus bordes, levanta la placa lógica del extremo más cercano a la unidad óptica.
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Sin doblar la placa, maniobra para sacarla de la caja superior, teniendo en cuenta la conexión flexible a la placa de entrada de DC que puede quedar atrapada en la caja superior.
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Retire la placa lógica.
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Tire del cable de la placa MagSafe DC-In hacia el disipador de calor para desconectarlo de la placa lógica.
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Retire la placa MagSafe DC-In.
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Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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18 comentarios
It's worth noting that the two ribbon cables held in place by ZIF connectors are a real pain to put back in - it's very hard to get any force pushing them back into the ZIF connector. It took two small tweezers and a bit of luck on the keyboard cable.
To get back the keyboard ribbon I put the piece of Anti-Static Kapton Tape to enter it.
As stated the keyboard connector is a nightmare to get back in, how I finally did it is, I presented the cable to the socket and using a sticky label pressing down pulled the label towards the centre of the mainboard
The magsafe connector is not under the mainboard and it would be easy for apple to have designed it so that the socket was on the top not the underside of the mainboard
I was using my Laptop (literally in my lap), with the charger connected when it felt very warm on my pant leg. Felt the bottom of the case by the Mag Safe connector and it was very hot, almost burnt my hand. Surprisingly hot. Wouldn't charge right after that, kept getting hot, intermittent charging. Looked at the contacts with a jewelers loupe; the gold contacts were burnt and blistered, plastic melted so it wouldn't make full contact with the AC charger. Charger contacts OK. Replaced DC in board, works like new, saved a bundle of cash. Laid all the screws out in related groups on table top. e.g. All 10 cover screws in a square. MoBo Screws in MoBo pattern, or, you could use a small metric/millimeter ruler to tell which screw goes where.
This is a terrific guide. My project, a mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5, was a little different, and the biggest challenges I experienced were places where my computer's connections were different than the model illustrated. So I'll share how that computer differed for those who might come up against the same challenges. I'll add those notes and illustrations in the sections that apply.
I lucked out with the two keyboard ribbon cables. I simply nudged them into place with two different spudgers—one to pry gently upward from underneath, the other to redirect that force to press the cable directly into its slot. I was anticipating a struggle, but it was a nothing.
Thanks for the great work, Andrew Bookholt, and everyone else!