Saltar al contenido principal

Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación

Qué necesitas

  1. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación, Calentamiento del iOpener: paso 1, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación, Calentamiento del iOpener: paso 1, imagen 2 de 2
    • Te recomendamos que limpies tu microondas antes de continuar, ya que cualquier suciedad desagradable en la parte inferior puede terminar pegado al iOpener.

    • Coloca el iOpener en el centro del microondas.

    • Para microondas giratorios: Asegúrate de que la placa gira libremente. Si el iOpener se queda atascado, puede sobrecalentarse y quemarse.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Contestar

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Contestar

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Contestar

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Contestar

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Contestar

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Contestar

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Contestar

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Contestar

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Contestar

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Contestar

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Contestar

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Contestar

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Contestar

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Contestar

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Contestar

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Contestar

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Contestar

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Contestar

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Contestar

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Contestar

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Contestar

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Contestar

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Contestar

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Contestar

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Contestar

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Contestar

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber - Contestar

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison - Contestar

    Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

    Aspect22 - Contestar

    A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

    Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

    Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

    Dan Smith - Contestar

    For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

    Dan Smith - Contestar

    BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

    Dan Smith - Contestar

  2. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Calienta el iOpener durante treinta segundos.

    • A lo largo del procedimiento de reparación, en cuanto el iOpener se enfríe, vuelve a calentarlo en el microondas treinta segundos más cada vez.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante la reparación. El sobrecalentamiento puede provocar que el iOpener se rompa. No intentes calentar a más de 100 ˚C (212 ˚F).

    • Nunca toques el iOpener si parece estar hinchado.

    • Si el iOpener esta todavía demasiado caliente al tacto, sigue utilizándolo mientras esperas a que se enfríe un poco más antes de recalentar. Un iOpener adecuadamente climatizado debe mantenerse caliente durante un máximo de 10 minutos.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Contestar

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Contestar

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Contestar

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Contestar

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Contestar

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Contestar

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Contestar

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Contestar

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Contestar

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Contestar

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Contestar

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Contestar

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Contestar

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Contestar

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Contestar

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Contestar

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Contestar

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim - Contestar

    Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

    Andrés Vettori - Contestar

  3. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 3, imagen 1 de 1
    • Saca el iOpener del microondas, tomándolo por una de las esquinas planas para evitar el centro caliente.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, ten cuidado cuando lo manipules. Utiliza guantes de horno si es necesario.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Contestar

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Contestar

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Contestar

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Contestar

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis - Contestar

  4. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación, Método de calentamiento alternativo iOpener: paso 4, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación, Método de calentamiento alternativo iOpener: paso 4, imagen 2 de 2
    • Si no tienes un microondas, sigue este paso para calentar su iOpener en agua hirviendo.

    • Llena una olla o cacerola con suficiente agua para sumergir completamente el iOpener.

    • Calienta el agua hasta que hierva. Apaga el fuego.

    • Coloca un iOpener en el agua caliente durante 2-3 minutos. Asegúrate de que el iOpener esté completamente sumergido en el agua.

    • Utiliza unas pinzas para extraer el iOpener calentado del agua caliente.

    • Seca bien el iOpener con una toalla.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, así que ten cuidado de sujetarlo sólo por las lengüetas de los extremos.

    • Tu iOpener está listo para ser utilizado. Si necesita recalentar el iOpener, calienta el agua hasta que hierva, apaga el fuego y coloca el iOpener en el agua durante 2-3 minutos.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Contestar

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Contestar

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Contestar

    Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.

    Jack Adrian Zappa - Contestar

    2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.

    Kipras Bielinskas - Contestar

    I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.

    Ollie Tan - Contestar

    Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?

    .

    Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.

    James Beegle -

  5. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación, Conjunto del Panel Frontal: paso 5, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación, Conjunto del Panel Frontal: paso 5, imagen 2 de 2
    • Coloca el iOpener sobre la pestaña de plástico para aflojar el adhesivo. Deja reposar la bolsa en el dispositivo durante aproximadamente 90 segundos antes de intentar abrir el panel.

  6. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 6, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 6, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 6, imagen 3 de 3
    • Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para tirar de la cubierta trasera de plástico del dispositivo hasta que haya suficiente espacio para insertar un spudger.

    • Inserta un spudger debajo de la cubierta, luego levántalo y retíralo del dispositivo.

    • Retira la cubierta de plástico trasera del iPod.

    • Ten mucho cuidado al quitar la cubierta de plástico ya que la antena bluetooth está adherida a ella.

    Too bad there is not a warning for bluetooth antenna damage... This guide led me to tearing my antenna.

    trogfield - Contestar

    still broke the antenna its very easy too

    Bin Chicken - Contestar

  7. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 7, imagen 1 de 1
    • Dobla suavemente la antena Bluetooth hacia la derecha, fuera del camino de los tornillos en la parte inferior del dispositivo.

    • Retira el único tornillo Phillips #000 de 1,4 mm del espaciador de plástico negro.

  8. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 8, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 8, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para quitar el espaciador de plástico negro del Nano.

  9. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 9, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los dos tornillos Phillips #000 de 2 mm de la parte inferior de la caja.

  10. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 10, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 10, imagen 2 de 2
    • Inserta una herramienta de apertura de plástico en la costura entre el panel frontal de plástico blanco y la carcasa trasera.

    • Desliza la herramienta de apertura a lo largo del borde del panel frontal para liberarlo de clips y adhesivo.

  11. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 11, imagen 1 de 1
    • Usa un spudger para presionar la lengüeta del tornillo del marco medio hacia arriba y hacia afuera de la caja trasera.

    I CAN NOT find this midframe screw tab.

    Donald Fournier - Contestar

  12. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 12, imagen 1 de 1
    • Usa un spudger de metal para hacer palanca con cuidado cerca del conector Lightning y debajo de todas las partes del ensamblaje del panel frontal: el vidrio frontal/digitalizador, la pantalla LCD y el marco medio de metal.

    • El adhesivo debajo del ensamblaje de la pantalla/marco medio de metal es bastante fuerte y los componentes son frágiles, así que hazlo despacio y con cuidado. Asegúrate de no doblar la pantalla LCD.

    This step is extremely difficult to do... How am I supposed to manage to lift the frame with the LCD screen without potentially causing damage to the LCD screen?

    Uriel Melchor - Contestar

    Yeah, I did run into a roadblock with that too, so I’ll have to find a heat gun (or iOpener) and see if I can use that to loosen the frame.

    Kevin Bhasi -

    Hello, My name is Michael , in this moment I destroyed one of the lines of the screen, because in this point every connector it is the right side , so I advice start for the another side , left up through right down side i think is the better way.

    it is the shame for me.

    Michael Lendian Castillo - Contestar

    This is quite bad way to separate the display from the housing. Many people will destroy the touch panel ribbon or the LCD. It is far better way that you insert very thin(~0.5mm) plastic card (do not use metal tool) to the gap between the housing and the iron LCD mounter, and the do as written.

    mamarama9904 - Contestar

  13. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 13, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 13, imagen 2 de 2
    • Continúa haciendo palanca a lo largo de los bordes debajo del ensamblaje del panel frontal, liberando los clips y el adhesivo a lo largo de los lados del dispositivo.

  14. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 14, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 14, imagen 2 de 2
    • Tira del ensamblaje del panel frontal ligeramente hacia abajo y parcialmente hacia afuera del dispositivo.

    • Solo necesitas abrir el dispositivo lo suficiente para acceder a los conectores del cable de la pantalla cerca del botón de encendido/apagado.

    • No separes las dos mitades por completo, todavía están conectadas por varios cables.

    STOP! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNTIL AFTER STEP 14 IF YOU VALUE NOT SEVERING THE LCD CABLE! Just please, please be aware that the battery cable CANNOT be disconnected, be careful!

    Colin Gubler - Contestar

  15. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 15, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 15, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa un spudger para soltar el cable del digitalizador y mostrar los conectores del cable de datos.

  16. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 16, imagen 1 de 1
    • Despliega suavemente las dos mitades del dispositivo para acceder a los componentes internos.

    • No intentes separar completamente las dos secciones, ya que todavía están unidas a través de un cable soldado.

  17. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 17, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 17, imagen 2 de 2
    • Tira hacia arriba de la lengüeta de la batería para liberar la batería de su adhesivo.

    • Voltea la batería en la caja trasera para guardarla.

    Disconnecting the battery from the lcd screen can ruin the battery,

    so why do that if you are just replacing the digitizer?

    rather just open the six screws and disconnect the digitizer.

    Yehuda Tsibushkin - Contestar

  18. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 18, imagen 1 de 1
    • Separa completamente el ensamblaje del panel frontal del resto del dispositivo.

  19. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación, Conjunto de Pantalla: paso 19, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación, Conjunto de Pantalla: paso 19, imagen 2 de 2
    • Inserta un spudger debajo del marco medio de metal y muéstralo en el lado izquierdo del botón de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que el spudger esté debajo de todo el ensamblaje de la pantalla para evitar que se doble el marco medio de metal.

    • Gira el spudger alrededor del botón de inicio y por el panel frontal, liberando el adhesivo que sujeta la pantalla en su lugar.

    Is not easier to remove the LCD first from the metal midframe?

    I think this will prevent any damage to the LCD while trying to release adhesive around the home button and and the metal midframe

    rallenfl - Contestar

    I am trying to put it my LCD back on my dgitizer and there is a wire on the digitizer and i cant figure out witch way to bend it.

    Scott P. - Contestar

    esta es la manera dificil de hacerlo. Para que quitar el marco metalico del touch?

    Andreu Bonafonte - Contestar

  20. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 20, imagen 1 de 1
    • Una vez que se haya liberado todo el adhesivo, separa suavemente el ensamblaje de la pantalla del cristal frontal/digitalizador.

  21. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación, Pantalla: paso 21, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación, Pantalla: paso 21, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retira los seis (tres en cada lado) tornillos Phillips #000 de 1,5 mm que sujetan el marco medio de metal a la pantalla.

  22. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 22, imagen 1 de 1
    • Si hay cinta que sujeta el marco medio a la pantalla, retírala con una herramienta de apertura de plástico.

  23. Reemplazo de la pantalla del iPod Nano de 7ª Generación: paso 23, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira la pantalla del marco medio.

Conclusión

Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

41 personas más completaron esta guía.

Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:

en es

100%

Estos traductores nos están ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›

Sam Goldheart

Miembro Desde 10/18/12

465,119 Reputación

538 Guías creadas

Equipo

iFixit Miembro de iFixit

Staff

135 Miembros

16,476 Guías creadas

2 comentarios

My display didn’t come out intact, so I ordered a new one but it has no metal backing. Where could I get it?

Liam Powell - Contestar

Love the guide. In performing this myself very useful, but there are may small details that would have helped me and for the first time novice such as:

- Describing in more detail how to separate the Digitizer and Display cables that intertwine and is connected to the home button.

- Recommend repair novice taking their own pictures as reference points to go back to

- Tools a good magnifying lens or a means to see small part details

- Provide more insight on how the display metal back is to be removed after folding back display cables and removing corner tape.

- Not all repair parts are the same; recommend basic instruction on common steps for parts that require re-applying the metal back, and folding over the cables

All-in-all a good guide…Thanks.

James - Contestar

Agregar Comentario

Ver Estadísticas:

Ultimas 24 horas: 18

Ultimos 7 días: 100

Ultimos 30 días: 503

Todo El Tiempo: 82,179