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Introducción

Use this guide to fix your iPad Mini 3 LTE screen. This guide will show you how to replace the front panel, including digitizer, home button, and display glass on your iPad Mini 3 LTE.

This guide will also show you how to remove and transfer the smart cover magnets to your new digitizer. Without these magnets your smart cover will not stay shut.

Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the LTE model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Contestar

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Contestar

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Contestar

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Contestar

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Contestar

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Contestar

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Contestar

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Contestar

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - Contestar

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - Contestar

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - Contestar

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Contestar

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Contestar

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Contestar

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Contestar

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Contestar

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Contestar

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Contestar

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Contestar

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Contestar

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Contestar

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Contestar

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Contestar

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Contestar

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Contestar

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Contestar

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Contestar

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Contestar

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Contestar

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Contestar

  3. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Contestar

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Contestar

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Contestar

  4. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

  5. Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
    • Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

    • Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

  6. Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
    • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

    • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

  7. While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD. Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
    • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

    • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

  8. Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

  9. Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.
    • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

  10. Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
    • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

  11. Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
    • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

    • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

  12. Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

  13. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
    • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

  14. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera. The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad. Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

    • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

  15. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
    • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

  16. Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive. Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
    • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

    • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

    • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

  17. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Be very careful of the small antenna cable near the upper-right corner. Only slide the pick away from the camera—while sliding it in the opposite direction you may accidentally tear the antenna cable. Be very careful of the small antenna cable near the upper-right corner. Only slide the pick away from the camera—while sliding it in the opposite direction you may accidentally tear the antenna cable.
    • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

    • Be very careful of the small antenna cable near the upper-right corner. Only slide the pick away from the camera—while sliding it in the opposite direction you may accidentally tear the antenna cable.

  18. Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
    • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

  19. Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass. Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.
    • Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.

    • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

  20. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  21. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.
    • Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

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  23. Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
    • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

    • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

    • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

  24. Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner. Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad. There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:
    • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

    • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

    • There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:

    • Antennas

    • Home button cavity

    • Digitizer cable

    • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

  25. Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing. With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button. Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.
    • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

    • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

    • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

  26. Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button. Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable. Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.
    • Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.

    • Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.

    • Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.

    • Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

  27. Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

  28. Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat. At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.
    • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

    • At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.

    • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

  29. Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge. Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.
    • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

  30. Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace. Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
    • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

  31. The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it. Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel. Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.
    • The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.

    • Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.

    • Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

  32. Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD: Three 3.3 mm screws
    • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD:

    • Three 3.3 mm screws

    • One 4.5 mm screw

    • If there is tape covering any LCD screws, peel it up with tweezers.

  33. Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end. Insert the flat end of a spudger under the LCD between it and the LCD shield plate and lift gently.
    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger under the LCD between it and the LCD shield plate and lift gently.

    • Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate. It must be between the LCD and the shield.

    • Even bending the LCD slightly can permanently damage it, so be extremely careful as you lift.

  34. The LCD is secured by mild adhesive that should be loosened before you flip the LCD up from its shield plate. Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad. Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad.
    • The LCD is secured by mild adhesive that should be loosened before you flip the LCD up from its shield plate.

    • Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad.

  35. Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers. Hold the LCD with one hand, and the rear body of the iPad with the other.
    • Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.

    • Hold the LCD with one hand, and the rear body of the iPad with the other.

    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD from the iPad.

    • Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers to separate the tape, being careful not to pull on the digitizer cable.

  36. Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end. Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

    • Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

    • Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.

    • Lay the LCD on the front panel glass to allow access to the display cables.

  37. Slide the tip of a spudger between the LCD and the adhesive tabs to free the display. Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables. Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables.
    • Slide the tip of a spudger between the LCD and the adhesive tabs to free the display.

    • Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables.

  38. Remove the seven 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the LCD shield plate.
    • Remove the seven 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the LCD shield plate.

  39. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD shield plate up and out of the iPad. Remove the LCD shield plate. Remove the LCD shield plate.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD shield plate up and out of the iPad.

    • Remove the LCD shield plate.

  40. Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the display cable bracket:
    • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the display cable bracket:

    • One 2.8 mm screw

    • Three 1.4 mm screws

  41. Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad. Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad. Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad.
    • Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad.

  42. Use the tip of a spudger to lift the home button cable up off of its socket on the logic board. Fold the home button ribbon cable out of the way. Fold the home button ribbon cable out of the way.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the home button cable up off of its socket on the logic board.

    • Fold the home button ribbon cable out of the way.

    maybe disconnect the battery before touch the home button cable

    ChiangFeng Li - Contestar

    On a iPad mini 3 you MUST remove the home button cable connector, before you have access to the battery connector

    phigsmith - Contestar

  43. Use the tip of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board. Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely. Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

  44. Use the tip of a spudger to lift the LCD connector up off its socket on the logic board. Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the LCD connector up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

  45. Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini 3.
    • Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini 3.

  46. Use the tip of a spudger to lift the digitizer cable connector straight up off of its socket. Use the tip of a spudger to lift the digitizer cable connector straight up off of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the digitizer cable connector straight up off of its socket.

  47. Slide the flat end of a spudger under the battery side of the digitizer board to begin separating it from the rear case. Slide the flat end of a spudger under the battery side of the digitizer board to begin separating it from the rear case.
    • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the battery side of the digitizer board to begin separating it from the rear case.

  48. Lift the digitizer board up to free the last of the adhesive. Lift the digitizer board up to free the last of the adhesive.
    • Lift the digitizer board up to free the last of the adhesive.

  49. Lift and remove the front panel assembly from the iPad.
    • Lift and remove the front panel assembly from the iPad.

  50. Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive holding the home button ribbon cable to the digitizer cable. Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive holding the home button ribbon cable to the digitizer cable. Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive holding the home button ribbon cable to the digitizer cable.
    • Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive holding the home button ribbon cable to the digitizer cable.

  51. Insert an opening pick between the home button ribbon cable and the digitizer. Slide the pick along the front panel, towards the home button, to continue separating the home button ribbon cable from the front panel. Slide the pick along the front panel, towards the home button, to continue separating the home button ribbon cable from the front panel.
    • Insert an opening pick between the home button ribbon cable and the digitizer.

    • Slide the pick along the front panel, towards the home button, to continue separating the home button ribbon cable from the front panel.

  52. Use an opening pick to lift the home button control hardware off the back of the front panel. Use an opening pick to lift the home button control hardware off the back of the front panel.
    • Use an opening pick to lift the home button control hardware off the back of the front panel.

  53. Peel up the last of the tape holding the home button ribbon cable in place by inserting an opening pick between the cable and the digitizer. Continue sliding the pick underneath the cable until it is wholly separated from the front panel
    • Peel up the last of the tape holding the home button ribbon cable in place by inserting an opening pick between the cable and the digitizer.

    • Continue sliding the pick underneath the cable until it is wholly separated from the front panel

    • Do not attempt to remove the home button yet. Is is still held in place by a strongly adhered bracket and delicate gasket.

  54. Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button bracket off the back of the digitizer. Remove the home button bracket. When reapplying the home button bracket, use a dab of adhesive or high-bond double sided tape to ensure adequate adhesion.
    • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button bracket off the back of the digitizer.

    • Remove the home button bracket.

    • When reapplying the home button bracket, use a dab of adhesive or high-bond double sided tape to ensure adequate adhesion.

  55. Prepare an iOpener and lay it over the lower edge of the digitizer to loosen the adhesive holding the home button gasket in place. Wait about two minutes before moving on to ensure the adhesive has adequate time to soften. Flip the digitizer panel over and gently push the home button up out of its slot in the front panel.
    • Prepare an iOpener and lay it over the lower edge of the digitizer to loosen the adhesive holding the home button gasket in place.

    • Wait about two minutes before moving on to ensure the adhesive has adequate time to soften.

    • Flip the digitizer panel over and gently push the home button up out of its slot in the front panel.

    • Push slowly and apply just enough pressure to slowly separate the gasket from the glass—if you push too hard the gasket will rip.

  56. Remove the home button assembly.
    • Remove the home button assembly.

    When replacing the fingerprint/home button:

    1. place the home button in the new front panel, slip it under the plastic insulation at the “top” of the button

    2. heat the iOpener gel pack, lay it gel side up on your workspace, place the bottom (home button) end of the front panel FACE DOWN on top of the iOpener, let it heat the adhesive on the home for 2minutes

    3. Use the “pencil” spudger tool to gently seat the home button from the backside of the new front panel - you’ll see a uniform “recess” to the outer ring when it’s seated properly

    phigsmith - Contestar

  57. If you're installing a new front panel assembly, it may need the following preparation: Peel the plastic strips covering the adhesive around the perimeter of the front panel assembly.
    • If you're installing a new front panel assembly, it may need the following preparation:

    • Peel the plastic strips covering the adhesive around the perimeter of the front panel assembly.

    • Remove the small piece of adhesive backing from the digitizer cable.

    • Make sure all copper is covered on the new replacement screen as once fitted without this the screen will move randomly.

    The pieces didn't adhere properly at the step. However, I continued the process and didn't have any issue with operation of the screen or system. I would recommend that this be a QA check at the manufacturer or third party company.

    paulmcneely - Contestar

    The new replacements have it wrapped in a sticker, I opened it to see if there was any adhesive, but there is not. Just carry on, ignore the pressing it on itself step.

    Kelly Spongberg - Contestar

    Yes the new replacements have this all wrapped in a sticker but I still had false imput problems with the new front panel assembly.

    Any ideas anyone?

    Pilar A - Contestar

    What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

    gentry - Contestar

    What do you mean, “all copper is covered on the new replacement screen?”

    Yes, this is a pretty important instruction, it would seem. I can infer a meaning but would feel better if it was more specific. Thanks!

    bstolzer - Contestar

    stolzer  gentry  notice the photo above… there is exposed copper parts next to the home button, these must be covered in electrical tape.

    David - Contestar

    I just received a new front planel and the digitizer connector is wrapped in a black electrical tape. I removed to check for the adhesive between circuit and connector but didn't see any, I re-wrapped in the original black tape which I think should be left alone. Also there was a yellow tape over the back of the home button and circuitry between the digitizer cable and home button. I removed this when I removed the blue plastic on the adhesive but I don't think your suppose to. After repair, home button doesn't work which might be because removing that tape.

    Ken Bauer - Contestar

  58. Fold the digitizer cable back over onto itself and press firmly to secure the adhesive. Fold the digitizer cable back over onto itself and press firmly to secure the adhesive. Fold the digitizer cable back over onto itself and press firmly to secure the adhesive.
    • Fold the digitizer cable back over onto itself and press firmly to secure the adhesive.

    The old glue was full of tiny shards. I rubbed it all away with many Q-tips and petroleum ether. To protect the LCD I used a sheet of heavy paper. Cleaning took a lot of patience.

    Still should have listened to Mike: The digitizer ribbon cable went between the frame and the panel. It was bent too sharply. Touch worked, but the home button did not. When i tried to reopen, the glass cracked. Big disappointment, but ill try again!

    luc - Contestar

    Same here, so suspect I have the same problem, didn't see these comments until after I finished!

    Took me nearly 2 hours to remove the glass because it just shattered even more every time I used the sucker. Used IsoPropanol to clean.

    Checked all was working with the new digitiser and home button by starting iPad before sealing the glass shut, all ok.

    Stuck it all down, home button works occasionally, but also siri bleeps on it's own sometimes as if someones pressing the button. Also, if I press either side of the home button I get a reaction as if I've pressed the home button, or sometimes I get the double tap action and sometimes Siri, makes me think that there is something shorting / touching that shouldn't be, unless it's the ribbon.

    Will order another kit and give it another go shortly as the glass is sure to break when you re-open.

    Barry Tresadern -

    @Barry Tresadern

    I had the same problem with the home button acting crazy. The problem is on the new screen there are metal contacts that are exposed and they are touching the metal frame making it seem the button is being pressed. If you look on the old screen you'll see strips of tape covering these metal contacts. You can either peel them off and put them on the new screen or just use some electrical tape.

    Patrick -

    Excuse me for my ignorance but... where is the RE-assembly guide?

    Francisco O - Contestar

    iFixit feels as if you don't need to actually fix the device, just take it apart ;)

    Koby Springer -

    With this step, im looking for a replacement screen. I cant seem to see the same connector as the one illustrated here. Is there 2 ribbons mixed there?

    James - Contestar

    James, I think you're referring to the IC chip that most glass panels do not include. If you do not have soldering knowledge (and a lot of confidence and time) then it's crucial that you purchase a panel that has the IC chip attached, otherwise you will need to remove the old one from the broken assembly and re-solder it on to the new one - honestly not worth the time involved unless you know what you're doing.

    Katie -

    I've been able to replace a shattered screen. Took about an hour and a half. This consisted of mostly cleaning the shards. I wish there were some glue in the kit - I don't know if there is enough left from the previous screen to hold the new one. I'm likely going to use craft glue to make up the difference. Any other suggestions?

    [deleted] - Contestar

    Heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun helps or you can buy very thin double faced tape.

    Michael Vovaris -

    I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?

    James Johnson - Contestar

    the new pannel comes with a yellow tape on those contacts. Do not remove it. (or replace it !)

    ZARAGOZA - Contestar

    Yes..do not remove this tape!

    Banu -

    Yes I learned the hard way as well, be sure you leave the yellow plastic tape over the back of the home button and surrounding circuitry or put tape over this area before install. New screen installed and the home button isn't working :-(

    Ken Bauer -

    THANK YOU Patboy2008, you saved me a friendship and a lot of heartache. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why the home button was on the fritz. Siri kept interrupting, the screen would go black, then flick on, then apps would randomly open, then it wouldn't even give me enough time to punch in my passcode. It was all about those two SILLY pieces of tape. Sure enough reopened it and noticed that the new screen didn't have the two black pieces of tape the old screen had. So glad I dug it out of the trash and transferred those pieces. It works like a charm now. Oh and this was so much harder to fix than the iPhones. The hardest part is getting the front panel off and if it's broke it'll come off in the tiniest of pieces. I hard shards of glass in my fingers that you were like invisible splinters. Be careful and take your time with this one.

    iKimmy - Contestar

    Thanks for comments. Yes, do pay attention the the metal bands in the bottom frame of the front panel. DO cover a trip of electric tape on it. You will find the random moving and touching away.

    shanhaidong -

    It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.

    philippschuller - Contestar

    In a kit purchased in June 2019, this operation was already done.

    Clément Marshall - Contestar

  59. Before you install your new front panel, you'll need to transfer the smart cover magnets on your OLD front panel to your new front panel. Place the edge of a plastic opening tool on each side of the magnet near the top left corner of the front panel assembly.
    • Before you install your new front panel, you'll need to transfer the smart cover magnets on your OLD front panel to your new front panel.

    • Place the edge of a plastic opening tool on each side of the magnet near the top left corner of the front panel assembly.

    • Carefully wedge the edge of the right plastic opening tool underneath the magnet.

    • Steadily hold the right plastic opening tool in place.

    • Wedge the left plastic opening tool underneath the magnet and simultaneously pry and push it towards the right plastic opening tool.

    • This will require some force as the smart cover magnet is held in place with strong adhesive.

    On the new front panel with the adhessive pre-installed, there are perforated area on the blue plastic you can peal away just for the magnets without exposing the rest of the adhesive.

    Ken Bauer - Contestar

    I found these come off much easier after applying heat to the area for 5 seconds.

    Korey Bennett - Contestar

    On the kit purchased in June 2019, magnets were included in the replacement part.

    Clément Marshall - Contestar

  60. If necessary, use a pair of tweezers to partially peel back the piece of tape covering the smart cover magnet near the lower left corner of the front panel assembly.
    • If necessary, use a pair of tweezers to partially peel back the piece of tape covering the smart cover magnet near the lower left corner of the front panel assembly.

    In the kit as of July 2019, there is an area of adhesive (separate from the edge adhesive) on the screen where you want to relocate the magnets. It is in the rough shape of the magnet, so you can see how to orient the magnet (curve parallel to the curve of the case corner). When you close up the screen, the magnets fit into the depression above where the tabs of the LCD are (the ones you remove the screws from in step 31). The magnets shouldn’t be too far away from the copper-colored rim of the interior of the screen, or they will not fit into the depression and may crack the screen when you press it to close. Definitely dry fit!

    Sara Austin - Contestar

  61. Use the previously described procedure to remove the smart cover magnet near the bottom left corner of the front panel assembly. Use the previously described procedure to remove the smart cover magnet near the bottom left corner of the front panel assembly.
    • Use the previously described procedure to remove the smart cover magnet near the bottom left corner of the front panel assembly.

  62. In this step you will be transferring the smart cover magnets to the NEW front panel assembly. Use a pair of tweezers to carefully place the upper left smart cover magnet in place. Repeat the procedure with the bottom left smart cover magnet.
    • In this step you will be transferring the smart cover magnets to the NEW front panel assembly.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully place the upper left smart cover magnet in place.

    • Repeat the procedure with the bottom left smart cover magnet.

    • If necessary, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flatten the piece of tape adhered to the bottom left smart cover magnet.

    Do not forget to remove the protective film from inside of new digitizer, remove black insulating tape from bottom of old digitizer and place on new one, covering any and all exposed copper. Take your time - the repair is not hard but it is time consuming

    David D - Contestar

    Thank you for mentioning that! I don’t think I would have noticed until too late.

    ted -

    BEFORE you close everything up power up your ipad and make sure all the buttons and functions work properly, charging, rotation, home button, sleep button

    Chris Grayden - Contestar

    Step 66, it is important to put the magnets in the same Exact place and orientation or you could break the glass (again) during installation.

    Phil Fite - Contestar

    The orientation of the magnets may also be important to the devices’s ability to wake/sleep in response to the cover being opened and closed.

    ciradrak -

    No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?

    Jim Dutton - Contestar

    Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!

    Jim Dutton - Contestar

    Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.

    Jim Dutton - Contestar

    All of this & they could have simply made the connector cable on the front glass a snap on connector & cut out 60 steps of this repair.

    Gary - Contestar

    I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.

    Rory Filer - Contestar

    Still had ghost touch issue with the iPad mini so I ended up purchasing Kapton tape on Amazon and used it to cover the entire bottom part of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is, not just the gold connectors as previously suggested. Apparently this is a common issue with the iPad minis where the digitizer and home button are grounded to the iPad’s chassis. Thankfully, that resolved the issues of ghost touch and my daughter’s iPad is now working like a charm. Just wished your iFixit digitizers were properly prepped with Kapton tape from the factory. Hope this helps with other iFixit customers suffering from the same issue.

    Yousef Ghalib - Contestar

    I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake

    Yousef Ghalib - Contestar

    One of the more difficult/frustrating issues I had during reassembly was the tendency of the digitizer cable to place itself between the frame & the glass. This prevented the glass from seating completely in the frame & I believe would have caused damage to the ribbon cable had I not noticed it. I had to use a flat tool to guide the ribbon cable away from the frame as I lowered the glass into place. I am not in a position to do it, but I hope a reassembly document will be added to these instructions, as it’s not simply a matter of “following the instructions in reverse order.”!!!

    kevs - Contestar

    Good tip! I replaced a digitizer myself after a shop had done it once already. Aside from new cracks, there were problems with dead spots on the screen, and the lock button would shut down but not sleep the screen. The screen I took off looked like the digitizer cable had been pinched like you noted, and I wonder if that was causing the problems.

    ted -

    If your ipad has a dented corner, you may need to trim the new glass a bit so that it fits flush. The ipad I worked on had been dented in the corner, which what cracked the screen in the first place. The dent pushed in the metal lip enough that a replacement screen would sit on top of it, so that a little too much pressure on the glass will make it crack again. A diamond-coated file will work to file off some of the glass on the corner. Full sized Leatherman multi-tools often have a diamond coating on the back side of the coarse file — it works great. Just be patient as it takes a while to grind off.

    ted - Contestar

    You Could Add One more Step: When assembling the screen it is necessary to tuck the digitizer cable back into the tablet as it wants to fold toward the outer edge and prevent the digitizer glass assembly from laying flat against the framework. You can do that with a Spudger by pushing the cabole back into the tablet as you close or seat the glass digitizer.

    Larry Bennett - Contestar

    At which step during reassembly to remove blue protective film on the adhesive is never mentioned. I did it too early and thought of preserving it with cling film which does not peel off afterwards. Don't do this. I suggest removing this stuff just before turning “the page” back on.

    Clément Marshall - Contestar

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Why is the iPad Mini 3 WiFi being used instead of the iPad Mini 3 LTE?

Tobey - Contestar

This is NOT the iPad Mini 3 LTE… please fix the guide so people won't break the LCD when they follow these instructions.

Jared Smith - Contestar

Remember, fixit get money from us buying parts. so the more we try or break, the more parts we might need. so they only will give us enough info for us to be brave to try to repair. that is why before I do any repairs that I haven tried in the past, I will check here and also you tube videos from other people who tried and compare notes or tips where I have to be careful.

iphone_hack - Contestar

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