Introducción
Vuelve a jugar reemplazando la placa lógica de los controladores inalámbricos de tu Xbox 360.
Qué necesitas
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Presiona el botón de liberación en la parte trasera superior del control.
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Extrae el portapilas del control.
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Usa un par de pinzas para despegar la etiqueta del código de barras del compartimento de la batería.
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Retira los siete tornillos Torx de seguridad T8 de 9,3 mm que sujetan la carcasa trasera a la carcasa delantera.
Any recommendation on which set of Security Torx tools to use? I've already purchased 2 kits, one of those being sold as "Xbox controller tools" but the diameter of the head does not fit the hole on the controller and that's critical for the 2 screws on the bottom. The tools must obviously be thinner in diameter and long enough to get there.
How to open an XBOX 360 controller without a special screwdriver. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-o... Works perfectly.
A lot of thanks for your comment. It's very usefull
Echedey -
I picked up a handy torx key set from Auto Zone. Was about $10, no lose driver bits. has both sizes you need to repair the controller and the console. Here's the link:
It doesn't really matter which set of bits you by or what brand makes them, Torx bits (and the security versions of them) are generic & come in standardized sizes. You do not need a special "xbox" tool kit, you just need a size 8 torx security bit, no matter what brand makes the bit/kit. Those types of "specialty kits" are usually just collections of generic bits that you can buy at a hardware store in a regular bit set. The difference is that a general bit set will have bits for screws that a specific item doesn't have in it, whereas a specialty kit will only include bits for the types & sizes of fasteners used in the specified item.
BTW, with the smaller sizes of torx security bits you can try breaking off the little post in the middle with needlenose pliers or something else that can fit in the there. Even if the post doesn't break off cleanly, it's usually short enough to fit a regular (non security) torx bit in the slot.
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Sujeta el controlador por el compartimento de la batería y el conector para auriculares.
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Levanta el compartimento de la batería para separarlo del conector de los auriculares, separando la carcasa trasera de la carcasa frontal y la placa lógica.
Good information
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para quitar el cable del motor de vibración, moviéndolo hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Saca el motor de vibración de la carcasa delantera.
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Retira el motor de vibración del otro lado del controlador utilizando el mismo método descrito anteriormente.
The opposite was true for the controller I just opened. It was the left motor counterweight (as you hold the controller normally) which had more weight. Perhaps it doesn't matter which goes where?
For anyone reading this in the future, it does matter. The way you had them originally is the correct way.
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Levantando el conector de los auriculares y el enchufe de alimentación, extrae la placa lógica de la carcasa frontal.
What if you're having difficulty taking the logic board out?
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Toma la palanca analógica derecha y saca la cubierta de su clavija de montaje.
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Con el pulgar y el índice, empuja el gatillo izquierdo hacia el lado derecho del controlador. Empuja simultáneamente el brazo de control del gatillo en la dirección opuesta.
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Empuja el brazo del gatillo hacia abajo.
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Inserta el borde de un spudger entre el gatillo y el conjunto del gatillo cerca del borde izquierdo. Haz palanca en la carcasa lejos del pestillo del gatillo.
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Utilizando la técnica descrita anteriormente, haz palanca en la carcasa del borde derecho para alejarla del gatillo.
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Gira el gatillo lejos de la placa lógica, más allá de su alojamiento.
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Desliza el gatillo hacia el lado derecho de la placa lógica y gíralo en el sentido de las agujas del reloj.
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Retira el gatillo derecho de la placa lógica.
This is a removal guide not a replacement guide. I need steps to putting the trigger back in now.
My trigger works by moving in and out but it is constantly either working or constantly not, when i press the home screen it switches between the two……help please
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Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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6 comentarios
Any guides for troubleshooting the test points on the board as to determine why the left trigger doesn't aim during gameplay? I've replaced the potentiometer with a brand new one but still nothing, everything else works perfectly …thoughts?
bad connection down the Vdc supply, gnd, or sense pin paths? Or a blown channel on the ADC that reads the potentiometer and converts the value to digital. If the ADC is integrated inside the main chip, its toast. Its also possible another component along the signal path may be faulty. Like a capacitor gone short for some reason. Basically its break out the multimeter and start poking stuff time.
Tank R -
I don't need a removal guide I need a diagram that shows me how to put the trigger on a button on top so a child with deformed fingers can use it. The triggers apparently have hall type sensors.
I havent been inside my official remote yet, but if the unofficial ones Ive scrapped and/or repaired are any indication the triggers are potentiometers, not hall effect sensors. If you're fine with simple binary control (ie, on off, and not the analog sweep of values) then just wire the center pad and what ever side the wiper moves towards (whichever side drops in resistance when going to full deflection) to a button. If that doesnt work, try center and the other pin.
Tank R -
The logic board won't come out, and I don't want to force it out. Any ideas on how to take it out?
