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Introducción

Usa esta guía para reemplazar o actualizar tu disco duro.

  1. Con la bisagra libre para moverse, el iMac estará desequilibrado y será difícil trabajar con él. Las reparaciones se pueden completar como se muestra, pero son más rápidas y fáciles con una cuña de servicio iMac.
    • Con la bisagra libre para moverse, el iMac estará desequilibrado y será difícil trabajar con él. Las reparaciones se pueden completar como se muestra, pero son más rápidas y fáciles con una cuña de servicio iMac.

    • Antes de comenzar cualquier trabajo en su iMac: Desenchufa la computadora y mantenga presionado el botón de encendido durante diez segundos para descargar los condensadores de la fuente de alimentación.

    • Tenga mucho cuidado de no tocar los cables del condensador o cualquier junta de soldadura expuesta en la parte posterior de la fuente de alimentación. Solo maneja el tablero por los bordes.

    I have (21.5 inch, mid 2017, 2.3 ghz) base model same as this but not 4k. How much max ram can I install in my iMac??

    Narendra Verma - Contestar

  2. Comenzando a la izquierda de la pantalla, cerca del botón de encendido, inserta la herramienta de apertura de iMac en el espacio entre el panel de vidrio y la carcasa trasera. El centro de la herramienta de apertura de iMac evitará que empujes la rueda demasiado lejos. Si usas una herramienta diferente, inserte no más de 3/8 "en la pantalla. De lo contrario, corres el riesgo de cortar los cables de la antena y causar daños graves.
    • Comenzando a la izquierda de la pantalla, cerca del botón de encendido, inserta la herramienta de apertura de iMac en el espacio entre el panel de vidrio y la carcasa trasera.

    • El centro de la herramienta de apertura de iMac evitará que empujes la rueda demasiado lejos. Si usas una herramienta diferente, inserte no más de 3/8 "en la pantalla. De lo contrario, corres el riesgo de cortar los cables de la antena y causar daños graves.

    • ¡Sé gentil! El vidrio puede romperse si se hace palanca demasiado. Usa un secador de pelo para calentar los bordes y afloja la cinta si la temperatura ambiente es baja.

  3. Usa la herramienta como un cortador de pizza: enróllala a través del espacio y cortará el adhesivo de espuma por el centro. Asegúrate de empujar siempre con la manija detrás de la rueda de corte. Si tiras, la rueda podría salir del mango. Ejecuta la herramienta hacia arriba a lo largo del lado izquierdo de la pantalla.
    • Usa la herramienta como un cortador de pizza: enróllala a través del espacio y cortará el adhesivo de espuma por el centro.

    • Asegúrate de empujar siempre con la manija detrás de la rueda de corte. Si tiras, la rueda podría salir del mango.

    • Ejecuta la herramienta hacia arriba a lo largo del lado izquierdo de la pantalla.

  4. Continúa ejecutando la herramienta en la esquina superior izquierda. Continúa ejecutando la herramienta en la esquina superior izquierda. Continúa ejecutando la herramienta en la esquina superior izquierda.
    • Continúa ejecutando la herramienta en la esquina superior izquierda.

  5. Corta el adhesivo a lo largo de la parte superior izquierda de la pantalla. Corta el adhesivo a lo largo de la parte superior izquierda de la pantalla.
    • Corta el adhesivo a lo largo de la parte superior izquierda de la pantalla.

  6. Continúa por la parte superior de la pantalla. Es posible que desees ejecutar la herramienta de un lado a otro a través de lo que ya ha cortado varias veces, para asegurarse de separar la mayor cantidad de adhesivo posible.
    • Continúa por la parte superior de la pantalla.

    • Es posible que desees ejecutar la herramienta de un lado a otro a través de lo que ya ha cortado varias veces, para asegurarse de separar la mayor cantidad de adhesivo posible.

  7. Empuja la herramienta alrededor de la esquina superior derecha de la pantalla. Empuja la herramienta alrededor de la esquina superior derecha de la pantalla. Empuja la herramienta alrededor de la esquina superior derecha de la pantalla.
    • Empuja la herramienta alrededor de la esquina superior derecha de la pantalla.

  8. Mueva la herramienta hacia abajo a lo largo del lado derecho de la pantalla. Mueva la herramienta hacia abajo a lo largo del lado derecho de la pantalla.
    • Mueva la herramienta hacia abajo a lo largo del lado derecho de la pantalla.

  9. Termina de empujar la herramienta de apertura hacia la parte inferior del lado derecho de la pantalla. En este punto, querrás volver a ejecutar la herramienta en toda la pantalla, para asegurarse de cortar la mayor cantidad de adhesivo posible.
    • Termina de empujar la herramienta de apertura hacia la parte inferior del lado derecho de la pantalla.

    • En este punto, querrás volver a ejecutar la herramienta en toda la pantalla, para asegurarse de cortar la mayor cantidad de adhesivo posible.

  10. Mientras que la herramienta de apertura corta la mayor parte del adhesivo, la pantalla todavía estará ligeramente adherida a la carcasa. Será necesaria una tarjeta de plástico para liberar el último de este adhesivo. Coloca el iMac boca arriba sobre una mesa. Comenzando desde la esquina superior derecha del iMac, coloca una tarjeta de plástico entre la pantalla y el marco.
    • Mientras que la herramienta de apertura corta la mayor parte del adhesivo, la pantalla todavía estará ligeramente adherida a la carcasa. Será necesaria una tarjeta de plástico para liberar el último de este adhesivo.

    • Coloca el iMac boca arriba sobre una mesa.

    • Comenzando desde la esquina superior derecha del iMac, coloca una tarjeta de plástico entre la pantalla y el marco.

    • Ten cuidado de no insertar la tarjeta plástica más de 3/8 ", o podrías dañar los componentes internos.

    Don't forget to place the mac face up on the table. Unlike older models, there is no more flap at the bottom holding the display in place. If you do these steps with the Mac upright, the screen will pop out, hit your table, and shatter :( Don't ask me how I know.

    John M - Contestar

    So sorry. Thanks for that caution.

    Ted Horodynsky - Contestar

    Using suction cups (the ones that were made for removing the magnetic front glass on the 2011 and earlier iMacs) work well too. Place one in each top corner, while the Mac is lying face up on a table, and gently pull and it will separate the display from the main body. You might need to do a little more slicing around the edges if you did not get all the way through the first time with the roller. Then you can lift the display up at an angle to disconnect the cables.

    Peter Hillman - Contestar

  11. Gira suavemente la tarjeta de plástico hacia los lados para crear un espacio entre la pantalla y el marco. Muévete lentamente y ten cuidado de no estresar demasiado el cristal de la pantalla; solo necesitas hacer un espacio de aproximadamente 1/4 ".
    • Gira suavemente la tarjeta de plástico hacia los lados para crear un espacio entre la pantalla y el marco.

    • Muévete lentamente y ten cuidado de no estresar demasiado el cristal de la pantalla; solo necesitas hacer un espacio de aproximadamente 1/4 ".

  12. SALTEA LA ACTUALIZACIÓN

    Ahorra reparando con un kit todo en uno.

    Compra Kits de Reparación

    SALTEA LA ACTUALIZACIÓN

    Ahorra reparando con un kit todo en uno.

    Compra Kits de Reparación
  13. Desliza la tarjeta hacia el centro de la pantalla para cortar el adhesivo restante a lo largo de la esquina superior derecha del iMac. Asegúrate de detenerse antes de la cámara iSight, o puedes dañarla. Asegúrate de detenerse antes de la cámara iSight, o puedes dañarla.
    • Desliza la tarjeta hacia el centro de la pantalla para cortar el adhesivo restante a lo largo de la esquina superior derecha del iMac.

    • Asegúrate de detenerse antes de la cámara iSight, o puedes dañarla.

  14. Vuelve a colocar la tarjeta de plástico en la esquina superior derecha y deja que permanezca allí para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a colocar. Vuelve a colocar la tarjeta de plástico en la esquina superior derecha y deja que permanezca allí para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a colocar.
    • Vuelve a colocar la tarjeta de plástico en la esquina superior derecha y deja que permanezca allí para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a colocar.

  15. Inserta una segunda tarjeta de plástico en el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco ubicado en la esquina superior izquierda del iMac. Inserta una segunda tarjeta de plástico en el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco ubicado en la esquina superior izquierda del iMac. Inserta una segunda tarjeta de plástico en el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco ubicado en la esquina superior izquierda del iMac.
    • Inserta una segunda tarjeta de plástico en el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco ubicado en la esquina superior izquierda del iMac.

  16. Gira suavemente la tarjeta hacia arriba, aumentando ligeramente el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco. Al igual que con el otro lado, gira lentamente para permitir que el adhesivo se separe y ten cuidado de no sobrecargar el cristal de la pantalla.
    • Gira suavemente la tarjeta hacia arriba, aumentando ligeramente el espacio entre la pantalla y el marco.

    • Al igual que con el otro lado, gira lentamente para permitir que el adhesivo se separe y ten cuidado de no sobrecargar el cristal de la pantalla.

  17. Desliza la tarjeta de plástico hacia el centro, deteniéndose nuevamente justo antes de la cámara iSight. Desliza la tarjeta de plástico hacia el centro, deteniéndose nuevamente justo antes de la cámara iSight. Desliza la tarjeta de plástico hacia el centro, deteniéndose nuevamente justo antes de la cámara iSight.
    • Desliza la tarjeta de plástico hacia el centro, deteniéndose nuevamente justo antes de la cámara iSight.

  18. Vuelve a colocar la tarjeta de plástico en la esquina superior izquierda. Vuelve a colocar la tarjeta de plástico en la esquina superior izquierda.
    • Vuelve a colocar la tarjeta de plástico en la esquina superior izquierda.

  19. Con ambas tarjetas de plástico insertadas como se muestra cerca de las esquinas, gira suavemente las tarjetas hacia los lados para aumentar el espacio entre la pantalla y la caja. Si hay secciones que parecen adherirse y no se separan, deja de torcer y use una de las tarjetas para cortar el adhesivo restante. Comienza a levantar la parte superior de la pantalla desde el marco.
    • Con ambas tarjetas de plástico insertadas como se muestra cerca de las esquinas, gira suavemente las tarjetas hacia los lados para aumentar el espacio entre la pantalla y la caja.

    • Si hay secciones que parecen adherirse y no se separan, deja de torcer y use una de las tarjetas para cortar el adhesivo restante.

    • Comienza a levantar la parte superior de la pantalla desde el marco.

    • Solo levanta la pantalla unos centímetros: los cables de datos de la pantalla y los cables de alimentación todavía están conectados a la placa lógica.

  20. Mientras sostienes la pantalla con una mano, usa la otra mano para desconectar el cable de alimentación de la pantalla. Asegúrate de sacar el cable de la lengüeta de plástico y no tirando de los cables de color. Levanta la pantalla lo suficiente como para tener fácil acceso al conector, pero no tanto como para estirar los cables y tensionar sus conexiones (aproximadamente 8 ").
    • Mientras sostienes la pantalla con una mano, usa la otra mano para desconectar el cable de alimentación de la pantalla. Asegúrate de sacar el cable de la lengüeta de plástico y no tirando de los cables de color.

    • Levanta la pantalla lo suficiente como para tener fácil acceso al conector, pero no tanto como para estirar los cables y tensionar sus conexiones (aproximadamente 8 ").

    As seen in photo:

    bottom cable pulls up

    top cable cable pulls right, after safety clip opened

    airshack - Contestar

  21. Usa la punta de un spudger para voltear el soporte de retención de metal en el cable de datos de la pantalla. Tira con cuidado del cable de datos de la pantalla de su zócalo en la placa lógica. Asegúrate de extraer el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo.
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para voltear el soporte de retención de metal en el cable de datos de la pantalla.

    • Tira con cuidado del cable de datos de la pantalla de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Asegúrate de extraer el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla directamente de su zócalo.

  22. Levanta la pantalla hasta una posición casi vertical. En este punto, todavía hay una tira de adhesivo a lo largo de la parte inferior de la pantalla, que sujetará la pantalla al marco como una bisagra. Puedes aflojar este adhesivo moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba y hacia abajo varias veces.
    • Levanta la pantalla hasta una posición casi vertical.

    • En este punto, todavía hay una tira de adhesivo a lo largo de la parte inferior de la pantalla, que sujetará la pantalla al marco como una bisagra. Puedes aflojar este adhesivo moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba y hacia abajo varias veces.

    There are pull tabs at each side off the bottom edge to allow easy release of the tape

    DarrenG - Contestar

  23. Si es necesario, se puede usar una tarjeta de plástico para cortar las secciones restantes de la tira adhesiva inferior. Si es necesario, se puede usar una tarjeta de plástico para cortar las secciones restantes de la tira adhesiva inferior.
    • Si es necesario, se puede usar una tarjeta de plástico para cortar las secciones restantes de la tira adhesiva inferior.

    The roller tool for slicing open the display works great for this step. Get in there like using the card and roll across the bottom to slice through the remaining adhesive.

    Peter Hillman - Contestar

  24. Levanta la pantalla del marco y retírela del iMac. Puede ser necesario levantarlo lentamente de un lado para pelarlo contra el adhesivo restante. Ten mucho cuidado al manipular la pantalla: es grande, pesada y está hecha de vidrio.
    • Levanta la pantalla del marco y retírela del iMac.

    • Puede ser necesario levantarlo lentamente de un lado para pelarlo contra el adhesivo restante.

    • Ten mucho cuidado al manipular la pantalla: es grande, pesada y está hecha de vidrio.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, eliminar todos los restos de adhesivo del iMac, y visita nuestra guía de Reemplazo de las tiras adhesivas del iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) para colocar el nuevo adhesivo antes de volver a instalar la pantalla.

    After removing the display, I also removed the 3 screws for the processor fan, disconnected the power connector for it and set the fan shroud aside. Disconnecting the remaining cable (similar style to 1 of the cables for the display) that is in the way of the RAM chips is all that's left to do. I was then able to access and quickly remove the two Apple-provided RAM chips, and replace them with 3rd party RAM. Turning the iMac on its side, so that it's in a position where you're physically putting the RAM chips DOWNWARD into their respective slots is the best way to go about uninstalling and reinstalling the chips. Using a narrow but long'ish plastic spudger tool is the best way to defeat the spring-tabs which hold the RAM chips in place. After removing the LCD display, changing the RAM is about a 10 minute process!! And I'd SURE prefer not to remove all the parts and risk damage to the iMac via the standard procedure listed. As per usual, take your time and work gently :-)

    Mitch K - Contestar

    Teardown the whole machine just to change RAM? While preparing to comment on this procedure I just noticed the comment made by Mitch K above. I ran pretty much the same procedure that he describes this afternoon (steps 1-23, 43-45, and step 55). Then I swapped out the original 2x4GB RAM chips for 2x8GB chips by reaching behind the logic board, releasing the spring retaining clips one chip at a time (starting with the chip further away from the logic board), pivoting the RAM towards the back of the machine, and then carefully sliding it out of the slot. I easily slid in the new chips and then pivoted them to lock them down. No hassle, no time lost. As Mitch K states above, not only is this “shortcut” method much quicker and easier, but it provides less risk of damaging cables, sockets and other delicate components during a total teardown. Why mess with the power supply board just to change RAM? I do not advise to follow the current iFixit.com procedure written by Sam Lionheart, regardless of user skill-level.

    nycsandor - Contestar

    THAT sounds one !&&* of a lot easier than the full tear down. I wonder if there’s a video of the process described by Mitch K? Adding that to these verbal instructions would really help relieve the apprehension and anxiety around the process! I do sometimes find the additional warnings, though appreciated from a “safety first” perspective, are somewhat overstated. It’s been a very long time since I shorted out RAM, or fried a PCB, or broke a connector, regardless of how finicky, fragile or awkwardly designed and positioned. I may have WANTED to break something, and the air might be blue for a few seconds, but inevitably, things go back together, the start button gets pressed, the startup chime sounds, and we’re in business. Practice DOES make as close to perfect we are likely to get.

    bruce - Contestar

    Mitch has the exact method that works a treat. You don’t need to follow steps 24-37 and also 40-63. Step 51 is the step to remove the camera cable and is needed. Steps 38 and 39 are for the Fan. That is all that is needed. Done quite a few like this.

    Be careful not to drop the RAM down the back of the logic board!

    By NOT removing all the other stuff you can avoid either damaging it or forgetting to plug in a cable.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Contestar

    I just trued this shortcut and it was not successful. I was not able to seat both RAM chips with this shortcut, and managed to slightly damage one of the retainer clips. I simply could not manipulate the chips into and out of the slots effectively without taking everything apart as described in the full set of steps.. I ended up retracing my steps and following the entire procedure, carefully, and that worked without incident. So, bottomline, it is definitely more work to follow all the steps but from my experience, it is decidedly safer. Your mileage may, of course, vary. It was successful in the end, and I swapped out the hard drive with an ssd during the same procedure and my machine is very, very much faster.

    jan - Contestar

    I have completed by following the Mitch K post and it is much easier than stripping down the whole thing, just be aware that to remove and replace the ram chips means working in a tight space, you need slim fingers and don’t be tempted to use force, take your time.

    Barrie Price - Contestar

    Well, I have slim fingers, but they are 60 years old, and they don’t work like they used to! LOL.

    Jan Hogle -

  25. Remueve los siguientes tornillos que aseguran el soporte del disco duro a la carcasa posterior:
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que aseguran el soporte del disco duro a la carcasa posterior:

    • Dos tornillos Torx T10 de 21 mm de la izquierda.

    • Un tornillo Torx T10 de 9 mm.

    • Un tornillo Torx T10 de 27 mm.

    Is there a special drive for this? Apple specs only one or two drives? I am planning a seagate SDHD. It has SMART, but may not be the right version. ANy comments/ recommendations?

    Carl Schultz - Contestar

    Any 2.5” SATA drive should work, but you’re doing yourself a disservice if you don’t get an SSD. One with a dram controller, preferably. They are a bit over $100 for 1TB right now (Jan 2020).

    maccentric -

    Pay attention to this photo and where the fan is. It is 180° from where the previous step shows it is oriented to you.

    Max Romano - Contestar

  26. Remueve los soportes izquierdo y derecho del disco duro del iMac. Remueve los soportes izquierdo y derecho del disco duro del iMac.
    • Remueve los soportes izquierdo y derecho del disco duro del iMac.

  27. Levanta el disco duro desde el borde más cercano al ventilador y extráelo un poco del hueco. El disco duro está conectado por dos cables, todavía no intentes extraerlo por completo del iMac. El disco duro está conectado por dos cables, todavía no intentes extraerlo por completo del iMac.
    • Levanta el disco duro desde el borde más cercano al ventilador y extráelo un poco del hueco.

    • El disco duro está conectado por dos cables, todavía no intentes extraerlo por completo del iMac.

  28. Desconecta el cable de alimentación SATA. Desconecta el cable de alimentación SATA.
    • Desconecta el cable de alimentación SATA.

  29. Desenchufa el cable de datos SATA del disco duro. Desenchufa el cable de datos SATA del disco duro.
    • Desenchufa el cable de datos SATA del disco duro.

  30. Levanta y quita el disco duro del iMac.
    • Levanta y quita el disco duro del iMac.

  31. Despega la funda flexible del disco duro de la esquina superior izquierda del disco duro. Despega la funda flexible del disco duro de la esquina superior izquierda del disco duro.
    • Despega la funda flexible del disco duro de la esquina superior izquierda del disco duro.

  32. Continua despegando la funda del disco duro del adhesivo que lo sujeta al disco duro. Quita la funda del disco duro.
    • Continua despegando la funda del disco duro del adhesivo que lo sujeta al disco duro.

    • Quita la funda del disco duro.

    • Lo queda es el disco duro.

    Followed the instructions in this guide using the included tool that I got with the strips. Everything worked great. Put in a brand new Samsung 850 Evo 250GB Drive. The guide makes it sound a little bit more complicated but everything went pretty smooth. Just took it slow and easy.

    Michael Conrad - Contestar

    About torx is this good or what should I buy? https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B00CIIM...=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Matteo Raggi - Contestar

    If replacing with an SSD, do you just use a mount? (I’ve don't this replacement in 27” models and the hard drive doesn’t have a silicone casing so I’m wondering how to get around this)

    Arispa Weigold - Contestar

    Great guide. I wanted to upgrade my late 2012 as much as I could to accommodate my large iTunes library. So with a little bit of cutting on the rubber hard drive cushion, I put a 15mm 5 TB hard drive and replaced the 120GB blade SSD with OWC’s 1 TB blade SSD. Now have 5.95 TB of fast usable space with my fusion drive.

    tednmandy - Contestar

    No temperature sensor issues on this? I know the 27” needs a temperature sensor adapter.

    Chris Harding - Contestar

    I couldn’t get the SATA cable connected again with the rubber sleeve on. Luckily my iMac had it in two separate pieces to stick to the long sides only, so I plugged it in first and carefully attached the bumpers after.

    Max Romano - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones al revés y usa nuestra [guía | 15854 | Guía de tiras adhesivas] para volver a colocar el cristal de la pantalla.

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I used the iMac Opening Tool just as shown in this guide to separate the tape. DISASTER! The screen cracked! I used the tool slowly and carefully and despite this, the screen cracked. I should have simply used a guitar pick. That said, while I was inside my iMac replacing the Harddisk with a SSD, which was pretty easy to do, I decided to also see if I could replaced the 8GB RAM with 16GB RAM WITHOUT removing the logic board, as shown in other instructions on this site. I found that by simply removing the fan assembly, this makes enough room to reach behind the logic board and unclip the 2 memory modules. I installed 2 8GB modules (1600MHz DDR3L SO-DIMM PC12800 204 Pin) without much trouble. I used a plastic stick to reach behind the logic board and unclip the existing memory modules, then carefully inserted the new ones and clipped them into place. This is much easier than removing the power supply and logic board and all of the associated connectors and screws.

gcortesi - Contestar

I had to replace the HD as it failed after less than two years. It was a good opportunity to increase the RAM from 8 to 16 GB. So I ordered the RAM chips from Kingston and a 256 GB SSD from Angelbird.

The repair went smoothly: to anyone trying this, please carefully follow the iFixit step-by-step guide. I recommend reading at least twice the whole procedure *before* beginning. Check all the photos. During the operation itself, I had the guide open before my eyes on my iPad and followed it step by step. The opening tool is a bit fragile, the wheel got damaged after the operation, but I guess it was designed to be used only once. After all, the adhesive strips can also be used only once!

For those replacing the hard-disk with an SSD: I highly recommend the Angelbird model "SSD wrk for Mac" (http://www.angelbird.com/en/prod/ssd-wrk...), for several dollars more you spare yourself the need to use additional software to enable TRIM or persuade the fans of your Mac that the HD's temperature is Ok.

lix - Contestar

Thanks for the tip on the Angelbird, working smoothly so far!

Elling -

Hi! Thanks for the tip! Do you know if can I put an SSD on an imac 21.5 in late 2012 ?

Tania Diego -

after changing the hard drive the monitor no longer works. Apple won't fix it because I opened it, and third-part wants to charge me $300-500. Hope you guys have better luck!

max - Contestar

Very simple so long as you take your time. I had the benefit of an on site screen replacement so could see what the tech did. A few tips inc links to photos.

1. Use a marker to draw a line on the plastic card so you can see the max depth.

http://imgur.com/cyjlRqo

2. Use sticky tape either side of Apple logo on the front of the iMac, you can then position and rest the screen on the lower ledge in the right place, hold with the tape (don't remove the adhesive backing tape at this stage). The tape then acts as a hinge so screen can be lowered and raised to refit connectors and remove backing tape. More tape at top will allow you to trial fit and test prior to sealing the screen back on. It's what the Applecare tech did when he changed the screen!!

http://imgur.com/PyPNsdE

http://imgur.com/IqRFsTt

3. Be careful when removing old adhesive. Screen has a black plastic type backing to it (this forms the black frame that you see from the front) and is easy to peel and damage.

http://imgur.com/Nntas1f

finepics - Contestar

Good input. I just ordered the strips to swap my HD with a SSD. I've tested i via USB but it keeps getting corrupted, second SSD too and people say it's the fact that I'm running it via USB. So now I'm ready for the big step and actually taking apart my iMac :)

Tape seems like an excellent idea. What's that silvery tape you used?

Daniel Mores -

Excellent guide and parts. My late 2012 iMac hard drive failed. As a side note, it passed SMART and Apple Diagnostics but was extremely slow - only about 5 MB/s transfer. In the logs I would occasionally see ioError but rarely.

[br]

I bought a new Retina iMac before attempting to fix this one. I'm a retired programmer and fixed computers all the time when I was young and could see better. So I was a little apprehensive about doing this but it went off without a glitch.

[br]

finepics comment and images above was helpful. Not mentioned was you need to clean off the adhesive from both the display and the iMac body. I wasn't sure if the black stuff on the display was supposed to stay as a mask but researching tech notes elsewhere said to remove it and that was correct.

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Thanks so much to ifixit! I'm a long way from an Apple Store so this saved a lot of inconvenience as well as money. I bought an SSD to replace hard drive and that was less than just the labor from Apple.

steveo - Contestar

This was a very straightforward repair and a lot easier than I imagined. I'm coming from a background of working on iPhones & iPads, this was a breeze in comparison. It took me only a few minutes to open it with the recommended tools. The adhesive was really easy to remove and replace as well. I could probably do the next one in less than half an hour from start to finish (excluding the time it takes to install the OS). Thank you for this guide!

My recommendation for anyone trying this, buy the service wedge. If it's your own iMac, it's definitely worth it if you need to open it up again. If you're in the repair business, it's a no-brainer. It tilts and holds the iMac at the perfect position to repair the device and the perfect position to lay the screen on the iMac before you seal it up.

jacob - Contestar

I replaced the hard drive following the guide and used the adhesive strips which are a must.

You DO NEED to be very careful with the step of the "credit card" used to separate the screen from the frame.

Make sure to design a reference line on the card in order to avoid to push it too far inside the frame and risk to damage the screen connections. Many users failed to perform this part of the repair procedure and had to replace the screen itself.

Patrick Putignano - Contestar

I followed this perfect guide and I replaced the HD with a SSD of Kingston. The iMac comes on because you hear the usual "going" but the screen remains black. I tried to connect an external monitor and is the same black. What may have happened?

TOMMASO CONVERSANO - Contestar

Same here, I replaced Samsung Evo 850 SSD, I can hear the start sound but it never show the Apple logo. The screen remains black.

Yas -

Will I have fan problems replacing my HD with an Samsung Evo 850 SSD on my iMac 2012 21.5?

I don't plan on installing fan software. Will this be a problem?

What fan is the one people are saying will run faster? CPU fan?

Will a 2.5 SSD fit fine?

filettransfer - Contestar

Working on an iMac is a lot like working on a laptop. This is an awesome guide, but if you've never done it before it's not a good starter project.

Ian Armstrong - Contestar

Changed the horribly slow original hardrive to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD. Used the opening tool and the cards and everything went very well. Just be sure to follow the instructions very carefully and make sure you buy the adhesive stripes for the reassamble. I also added some extra RAM while opening the machine. I added an extra 8 GB from Crucial (1600MHz DDR3L SO-DIMM PC12800 204 Pin) so now I have 12 GB and that is enough for me. I did as stated above and removed the fan and then you can remove the RAM if you are very carefully. If you do as I did and upgrade only one of slots, one of the slots is very easy to reach. While being inside the machine I also carefully vacuumed the inside since there were som dust in there. My iMac now feels as good as new and is so much faster so the upgrade was well worth it.

Mikael - Contestar

hi, for the fans how you solved? Thank you

Labbrone -

Super facile avec le kit de bandes adhésives et la roulette. J'ai pu remplacer facilement mon HD par un SSD Evo. J'en ai même profité pour remplacer les barrettes de RAM! Piece of cake.

cohou - Contestar

Are the torx screws TR10 (security) or T10 (non-security)?

Kyle Johnson - Contestar

The screws are T10, but TR10 would work just fine!

Sam Goldheart -

Super easy to remove the LCD.

I use a utility knife and slow and carefully go around the LCD (1/4" deep). You can feel the tension as you move it along, so just go through it until the knife blade past every gap smoothly. Just keep going through it until all adhesive is loose and I mean ALL adhesive. At the end the knife should go along the LCD gap without any tension. At that point, just lift it up as described above. It should be so smooth that it feels there's no adhesive at all.

Samuel Kwok - Contestar

Will a 15mm Hard drive fit into this iMac? I can't tell and I'd like to know before attempting the replacement.

mgrayjr - Contestar

Excelente guía !! Instalé un SSD Crucial M550 1 TB y todo salió perfecto, ahora mi iMac 2012 vuela!! Gracias

Roberto Herrera - Contestar

Je viens de réaliser le changement de mon ancien DD par un SSD Samsung 850 Pro de 512Go, juste impressionnant, tout va plus vite!

C’était la première fois que je démontais un ordi, en étant très précautionneux et en suivant le tutoriel à la lettre, aucun souci. Pour le double face, j’ai mis un 3M standard de 6mm de largeur, ça convient parfaitement.

Avant la manip, j’ai utilisé Carbon Copy Cloner en version d’évaluation juste le temps du changement. J’ai retrouvé tout mon environnement après l’installation.

Juste un petit souci sur Microsoft Office qu’il faut réactiver sur le nouveau disque.

David E. - Contestar

No mention of the extra cable needed for temperature control? Is it no longer required?

Walter Poole - Contestar

I do not believe the thermal sensor is required.I recently replaced my old HDD with the Samsung EVO 850 2TB SSD. The HDD was failing and taking 15+ minutes to boot. Not really sure if this had to do with age (6 years old, bought new) or with the fact that my drive had been partitioned; as I have read that some people have had their drives fail early due to partitioning. Regardless, the process was relatively pain-free, and have not had the issue with my fan running at full speed (runs at normal fan speed between 1200-1300 rpm’s). Computer feels brand new, and is now booting from restart in under 12 seconds. This website rocks!

Rapa-Nui Gustafson-Ika - Contestar

Great guide, thanks!

tedcmacdonald - Contestar

bah this is way over complicated, take an exacto knife, put it out one or two clicks, cut off the adhesive, use a playing card or whatever if you need spacers to keep it from resealing, when you seal it back up get some strong velcro tape so you can get back into it later if you need to. If you can start at the camera since there’s no adhesive above it and pull away from it so you don’t scratch it, don’t cut the bottom it will act as a hinge and just come right off after disconnecting the cables. It’s not possible to cut any wires around the edges because there are no wires around the edges unless you go three inches deep.

dongo - Contestar

su’ un imac 2012 sostituendo l’hard disk con un ssd ci sono problemi con i sensori o le ventole vanno al massino?grazie

Francesco - Contestar

I completed this today and it was easier than I had imagined. I have replaced the drives in around 30 of the older iMacs and I was a little annoyed about the screen removal process for this one (which is my daughter’s one)! I couldn’t find a use for the service wedge…

The hardest thing was getting the SATA cable back in, I ended up removing the rubber casing from the new drive and then plugging it in, there was more room and with the help of a spludger it was easy - I then eased the cover back on. I used an intel 545S series 512GB SSD.

My advice when following this guide is to take your time with the iMac opening tool and cards (and mark 3/8 inch on the card with pen) and if you can find an extra pair of hands then that’s good too. I had some help so we didn’t need to completely remove the screen, it just tilted back quite nicely. I didn’t need to worry about replacing the adhesive strips in the hinge area either.

The screen data and power cables were easy to manage.

Thanks!

Suzanne Levy - Contestar

How come there is no mention about using a sensor cable, other sites such as OWC recomend using it for fan control? And also sell one! I remember doing a ssd instal with out it but had to use a fan control software to not make it go crazy, some more detailed info about this would be nice no ? Thanks

dani - Contestar

Thank you for this guide, i‘ve done the instructions very carefully and slowly, not in one hour, but all is ok now, a new 2TB SSD does now what the old 1TB HDD done before( Smart says defect) . Now it runs much faster as it was a new iMac I think

Armin Janssen - Contestar

I replaced my failing HD with a new SSD. Followed the instructions and the repair went smoothly. Good Luck.

matthewconner - Contestar

The guide gave me all the information I needed to replace a dead drive. I purchased the tools I didn’t already have and the supplies such as the adhesive strips from iFixit. I kept the guide open on my laptop as I worked through the repair. Here are a few tips:

• The toughest adhesive strip to remove was on the lower left of the housing near the power button, where people grasp the Mac to turn it on.

• When the Mac was on the table with the screen facing up it was helpful to put something heavy behind the base so that it wouldn’t slide as I disconnected and reconnected the wiring. A no-skid pad would work, but I didn’t have one handy.

• The guide doesn’t mention them, but a couple of heavy-duty suction cup handles are handy for manipulating the screen. Not essential, but nice to have.

• Don’t rush! Read and understand the guide before you start, make sure you have all of the tools and materials and work slowly and carefully. Patience will be rewarded by success, impatience by problems.

Don Balduf - Contestar

i’v just replace my RAM from 8 to 16GB and my HD with a SSD, thank you for the tutorial ! it really help

i had an issue to restore my data from my Time Machine backup because my mac load the mac tool from OSX LION and my backup was on OSX Catalina. A good thinks to note before proceeding is to create a usb key launcher from your system :

https://support.apple.com/fr-fr/HT201372

After that, the Time Machine backup working like a charm !

Olivier Toscano - Contestar

I just replaced the hard drive on a late 21.5 inch iMac with a 1TB SSD using the kit from iFixit. Easier to do than I thought. I was really worried about breaking the glass. Key is to have a 2nd person to help keep it open while you are disconnecting and reconnecting the cables going to the monitor.

I also highly suggest not putting on the adhesive strips on until you are sure everything is working, i.e. temporary put the display back on and hold it in place with some masking tape, boot it up, and if it works, take the monitor back off and then apply the adhesive strips.

One final note…when I did boot the iMac up with the new SSD in it, it shows two separate drives…. the 128 GB SSD (the part left over from the fusion drive) and the new SSD. So, I am guessing I could have gotten by just buying the tools and not replacing the HD and just attaching an external HD for storage if needed. Oh well. I even cloned the fusion to the new SSD but I guess I didn’t need to. Ended up booting in Recovery mode and reinstalling everything.

That cutter works great, btw!

Tony Padgett - Contestar

Hi, I have installed Crucial BX500 2.5 SSD, but the iMac can’t see it. I have checked the conections, but still don’t working. Any idea?

thanks!

Pablo Lara - Contestar

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