Introducción
The time and date, as well as other settings, are kept by the PRAM battery when your machine is off.
Herramientas
Partes
-
-
Use a coin to turn the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
-
Lift the battery out of the computer.
-
-
-
Remove the four Phillips screws from the memory door.
-
Slide the memory door away from the memory compartment.
-
-
-
-
Place enough pressure on the upper case to allow you to slide a tool just within the seam between upper case and lower case as shown in the picture. A dentist's hook, push pin, or similar tool will work.
-
Delicately slip the tip of your tool behind the silver metal latch and pull it forward while pulling up on the case. This may take some effort.
-
Alternatively, you can free the clasp with a small flathead screwdriver through the CD slot. The clasp is 1-3/16 in (3cm) from the left side of the slot. Use the screwdriver to lift out (or press back) the felt lining; then use the screwdriver to pull the clasp (shiny metal) forward to free it from the catch behind it (dull metal).
-
-
-
Lift the back of the case up and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.
-
Rotate the upper case up and toward the screen, so that the upper case rests against it.
-
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
16 personas más completaron esta guía.
Documentos Adjuntos
2 comentarios
For those that are trying to do this in 2021, when new replacement parts are basically unavailable — you can replace just the cell itself with a new unit — Panasonic actually still makes these 3032 rechargeable cells. The part is here: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/deta...
The new ones are a 3V cell; the Apple spec’d battery is 3.7V, but it seems to work fine. You’ll need basic soldering skills — take the old unit out, unwrap it from the kapton tape, unsolder the old one and solder in the new one. Make sure to use a hot iron and spend a minimal amount of time heating (not more than a second or so). You want to heat the terminal, but not the battery itself.
When I did this, my old Apple OEM battery was reading a 1.03V charge; the new one was a full 3.05 volts.
An update 3 weeks later — the cell above did NOT work. Battery stopped holding a charge and was leaking badly; I think this may be because the new cell was only 3.0V and the original was 3.7V, and possibly the charging circuit was overcharging it.
I have found a 3.7V cell on ebay, so I’m going to try that next.
david -