Introducción

Upgrade or replace the combo or SuperDrive.

  1. Use a coin to turn the battery locking screw 90 degrees to the right.
    • Use a coin to turn the battery locking screw 90 degrees to the right.

    • Lift the battery out of the computer.

  2. Remove the four Phillips screws from the memory door.
    • Remove the four Phillips screws from the memory door.

    • Slide the memory door away from the memory compartment.

    • Remove the long black Phillips screw next to the memory card.

    • Remove the small EMI finger beneath the black screw.

    • Flip down the door on the right side of the battery compartment.

    • Use a spudger or flathead screwdriver to disconnect the Airport antenna from the card.

    • Grasp the plastic tab and pull the card out all the way.

    • On the keyboard, remove the F1, F2, F11, and F12 keys.

    • This is scary - take a deep breath before continuing. Place your index finger under the upper left corner of the key and lift up until you hear a click. Then, transfer your finger to the left edge of the key and lift up to pull the key off.

    • You're freeing the two tabs on the left of the key from the two small holes in the plastic scissors mechanism.

    • When replacing the keys in the keyboard, place the key directly over the slot where it will go and press down until you hear the key click into place.

    • Use your fingernail or a small flathead screwdriver to peel up the gray stickers covering each of the screws.

    • Remove the two short Phillips screws.

    • Lift the keyboard by the 'esc' and 'eject' keys and gently lift up until the keyboard is vertical.

    • Grasp the keyboard connector ribbon near the connector and disconnect it from the logic board.

    • Remove the three 2.5mm Phillips screws from within the battery compartment.

    • Turn the computer 90 degrees clockwise and remove the two Phillips screws from the casing.

    • Outside case screws are aprox. 1/4 in long

    • Turn the computer 90 degrees clockwise again, and remove only the bottom screw on either side of the hinge.

    • Turn the computer 90 degrees clockwise just one more time, and remove the two Phillips screws on the exterior wall of the battery compartment.

    • Note: For reassembly the two screws have long necks.

    • Turn the computer over and open it up.

    • Remove the following 14 screws:

      • Six 2.5 mm Phillips on either side of the keyboard area.

      • Five 4.5 mm Phillips on the left half of the keyboard area.

      • One 7 mm hex in the upper left corner of the upper case (a T6 Torx driver will do the job nicely).

      • One 15 mm Phillips in the upper middle of the keyboard area.

      • One 16.5 mm hex in the upper right of the upper case (again, a T6 Torx driver will work well).

    • This step is extremely tricky, and has the potential to ruin your computer. It is easy to pull the plug with the red and black leads (the power) out of the motherboard. If you do that, it is nearly impossible to fix.

    • Peel up the two pieces of foil tape on the left side of the keyboard area.

    • The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

    • Carefully disconnect the microphone and power cables from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connectors from their sockets. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

    • Starting at one of the upper corners near the screen, work around the frame, separating the upper case from the lower case.

    • Using a screw driver, gently release the two grey plastic clips inside the battery compartment in order to remove the right part of the upper case.

    • There are two more grey plastic clips holding the left part of the upper case. They are not easy to release as they are hidden from view prior to disassembly. They are in the same position as the two in the battery compartment, but on the opposite side of the trackpad. Try to stick a flat pry tool into the clip holes and push the clips inward (toward to screen) so they disengage and release the left part of the upper case.

    • Lift the upper case off the computer.

    • Peel back the yellow tape securing the inverter cable near the fan.

    • Remove the following eight screws:

      • One 4.5 mm Phillips near the modem.

      • Three 6 mm Phillips near the display.

      • Two large 7.5 mm Phillips with attached springs.

      • Two 13 mm Phillips, one on the lower left side of the heat sink and one between the fan and the optical drive.

    • Peel up the Bluetooth cable on the right side of the fan.

    • Lift up the inverter cable with one hand, and carefully thread it around the heat sink. The inverter cable is still attached to the logic board, so be careful not to put too much strain on the cable.

    • Support the heat sink with both hands, and carefully lift it out of the computer. Be careful not to bend the copper heat pipe connecting the two sections of the heat sink.

    • If you need to mount the heat sink back into the laptop, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

    • Remove the single Phillips screw securing the hall effect sensor board to the optical drive.

    • Deroute the cable connecting the hall effect sensor board to the DC-to-DC board.

    • Use a spudger or the tip of your finger to disconnect the hall effect sensor cable from the DC-to-DC board.

    • Use the orange plastic loop to disconnect the hard drive cable from the logic board.

    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the metal framework.

    • Lift the hard drive up and out of the computer.

    • Use a spudger or the tip of your finger to disconnect the sleep light cable from the DC-to-DC board.

    • Remove the following five secrews/standoffs from the DC-to-DC board:

      • One 3.5 mm Phillips in the lower right corner.

      • Two 3 mm Phillips on either side of the battery contacts.

      • One 10 mm Phillips in the upper right corner.

      • One 14 mm long 4 mm standoff in the upper left corner. You can remove this standoff either with a 4 mm nut driver or needlenose pliers.

    • Remove the silver EMI fingers located near the battery contacts.

    • Use a spudger to pry up the end of the DC-to-DC board closest to the display and remove the board from the computer.

    • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the modem and modem shield to the logic board.

    • Disconnect the modem from the logic board by lifting the bottom edge of the modem. Don't remove the modem entirely just yet as it is still connected to the RJ-11 board.

    • Turn the modem over and disconnect the RJ-11 cable.

    • The connectors at the ends of the cables are often attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

    • Carefully disconnect six indicated connectors from the logic board. To disconnect the four white connectors, use your fingernails or a dental pick to carefully pry the connectors from their sockets. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

    • Lift up middle speaker cable from the lower left corner of the fan, and disconnect the two sections of the cable.

    • Deroute the microphone cable from its channel in the metal framework.

    • Remove the following nine screws:

      • Four 3 mm Phillips allong the left edge and near the fan.

      • One 4 mm Phillips in the bottom left corner.

      • Two 6 mm Phillips near the left hinge.

      • One 9 mm Phillips in the top left corner of the fan.

      • One 12 mm Phillips just above where the hard drive was located.

    • Peel up the yellow tape securing the display data cable to the metal framework, and deroute the display data cable from its slot in the framework.

    • Remove the newly revealed Phillips screw near the RJ-11 board.

    • Some computers may have two Phillips screws securing the RJ-11 board to the metal framework.

    • Lift the RJ-11 board up from the left side, and remove the single Phillips screw hidden beneath.

    • You may have to remove the metal shield above the RJ-11 board before you can lift it up.

    • Lift up and remove the silver EMI fingers located above the ports on the left side of the computer.

    • Pull back on the orange optical drive cable with one hand, and use your other hand to lift the front section of the metal framework over the optical drive cable.

    • Deroute the microphone cable from its channel in the upper right corner of the framework.

    • The metal framework should now be free can be removed from the computer. Be careful when removing the metal framework that none of the cables get caught on the framework.

    • When reassembling the laptop, make sure that two wires come through the loop of metal on the frame on the upper right-hand side - a silver wire at right angles and the skinny black microphone channel. The third wire from underneath the frame is routed over the fan. The fourth wire from this corner is directly attached to the frame.

    • Remove the two Phillips screws from the bottom right of the logic board.

    • When reassembling, take note of the plastic piece immediately to the right of the screws. Make sure you do not neglect to put it in place before screwing down the logic board.

    • Do not lift the logic board out completely without first disconnecting the DC-In connector underneath the logic board.

    • Lift the logic board partly up from the optical side.

    • Disconnect the DC-In connector from the underside of the logic board.

    • Remove the two 6mm Phillips screws from the upper right corner of the computer.

    • Remove the newly-liberated small metal bracket.

    • Remove the two recessed Phillips screws on the right side of the optical drive.

    • Lift the optical drive up by its front left corner and pull it out of the computer.

    • If you have a CD or any other object jammed in your optical drive, we have an optical drive repair guide.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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iRobot

Miembro Desde 24/09/09

1 Reputación

623 Guías creadas

After breaking the speaker socket out in step 17, successfully soldered it back into the board and backed out of this repair. Fortunately everything that worked with the computer before taking it apart still works. I appreciate all the photos and steps supplied here at iFixit. I have done some difficult repairs before, but this one ended up bigger than me. I will just use an external optical drive when I need it. To be honest I have not used one with this computer for a couple of years!

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