Introducción
Los botones del controlador Nintendo Switch Pro y el D-Pad son las entradas principales del controlador. Es posible que sea necesario reemplazar los botones si no responden. Consulta nuestra guía de solución de problemas para obtener más información.
Durante el desmontaje, ten cuidado con los bordes afilados, hay algunas piezas de plástico expuestas que podrían cortarlo.
Qué necesitas
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Voltea el mando para que las pegatinas de los modelos estén orientadas hacia el techo.
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Usa un destornillador JIS#00 para quitar los dos tornillos negros de 8,4 mm que sujetan las manijas, ubicados en los extremos de las manijas.
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Retira con cuidado las tapas de las asas separándolas del cuerpo principal.
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Utiliza un destornillador JIS n.º 00 para quitar los cuatro tornillos plateados de 6,8 mm que sujetan la cubierta de plástico transparente posterior.
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Retira con cuidado la cubierta de plástico transparente con la uña.
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Retira la cubierta de plástico transparente.
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Retira la batería de iones de litio haciendo palanca con una uña o una herramienta de apertura de plástico en el lado izquierdo.
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Usa un destornillador Phillips #1 para quitar los cinco tornillos de 5 mm de largo de la parte posterior del controlador.
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Los tornillos ubicados en la parte superior de los mangos y el tornillo ubicado debajo del hueco de la batería se hallan en huecos poco profundos y pueden quitarse sin dificultad.
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Los dos tornillos ubicados a los lados de los botones ZR y ZL se hallan en huecos bastante profundos. Necesitarás un extensor, o un destornillador Phillips lo suficientemente largo para alcanzar los tornillos.
the 2 screws up at the top are unreachable with the standard fixit kit just a heads up
Seconded. the screws are located too deep below the plastic slot, and the bit holding bulge is too wide for the small aperture (similarly with the flexible extension). the bit length is too shallow to reach.
An alternative driver with a much narrower & longer shaft is required, which will likely not come with interchangeable bits.
I would say it is possible to reach the top left screw, just not the top right - there is a gap in the top left that allows you to slightly bend the standard driver outward to turn it while still making adequate contact.
An update: I was actually able to remove the top right one in a really hacky way - inserting the Phillips #0 bit into the #4 hex bit, and then using that in the standard driver. This added just enough length to successfully reach and make full contact with the screw!
Using the #4 hex bit as an extension was the exact "hack" I needed to get rid of the drift finally. Thank you. You're a lifesaver.
Das #4 Hex Bit als Verlängerung für das Kreuzschlitz Bit zu nutzen ist zwar etwas eng, aber es erspart einem wirklich einen zusätzlichen Schraubendreher.
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Retira con cuidado la cubierta de plástico del controlador.
Didn't realize there is adhesive holding the front cover onto the unit. It's located inside of the handles. Just a bit of force there helped, just be careful of the cable.
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Usa la punta de una púa de apertura para abrir la solapa negra del conector ZIF empujándolo hacia arriba
Having just completed this repair, I noted that this ribbon cable can disconnect on either side. It is easier to disconnect and reconnect from the other side than what is shown in my experience.
@acestronautical is right! much easier to remove the ribbon cable from the button board, connect to the base board and then connect back to the button board. Thank you @acestronautical
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Usa tus dedos o un par de pinzas de punta roma para desconectar el cable de interconexión de su conector.
You don't need to disconnect this as long as you are fine with keeping it close by so as not to rip the ribbon cable.
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Retira los dos tornillos de 6,8 mm de largo en la placa de circuito superior con un destornillador Phillips.
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Usa un spudger para levantar la pestaña de bloqueo del conector ZIF.
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Retira el cable plano negro de su conector.
What do I do if the connector snaps off? Is it fixable with solder or electrical tape or should I give up hope?
This ribbon cable is difficult to reconnect, quality tweezers are required. I was unable to slide the ribbon cable in to where I could no longer see the traces. Take note of how much ribbon cable is exposed before disconnecting so that you can have an easier time judging when the cable is fully inserted upon reconnecting.
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Usa un destornillador Phillips para quitar los dos tornillos de 5 mm de largo que sujetan la placa de circuito.
There’s one more screw - in this picture, on the left. The junction of the body and left grip, right behind the ABXY buttons.
Hi @mattrausch, thanks for your comment. You're right, the circuit board is held by two screws. I've updated this step.
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Usa tus dedos o un par de pinzas para quitar los botones que deseas reemplazar.
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Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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On re-assembly, you may have trouble getting the top circuit board and shoulder button support structure to snap into place. It’s easiest to get the circuit board around the right analog stick hole, and push it all the way down until it is in place, then to secure the shoulder button support structure.
Make sure the “Home” button clear plastic light spreader (a clear irregular circle-shaped piece) is in place on top of the home button assembly, or it will give the home button a “sunken” appearance.
Worked well, thank you. Had a gooey X button that needed to be cleaned.
Be carefull, these screws are super easy to strip even with the right tools.
Lukas Eberharter - Contestar
I tried editing these instructions after I had trouble with stripping screws, but it doesn't seem to take. The issue is that these are JIS and not Phillips screws. They are VERY similar looking but a Phillips head screwdriver will strip the screws.
Isaac Webb - Contestar
I tried using a Philips #00 screwdriver but it didn’t work
vincent ingrassia - Contestar