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Introducción
Guía de requisitos previos para retirar el conjunto de la placa base.
Qué necesitas
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Sujeta el cable de cinta del micrófono cerca del micrófono con un par de pinzas.
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Tira del micrófono hacia arriba para sacarlo de la carcasa superior.
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o la uña para levantar la solapa de retención en el conector ZIF del cable plano del ensamblaje del altavoz.
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Desconecta el cable plano del ensamblaje del altavoz con un par de pinzas.
Can there be a guide on how to replace this part? I pry on the socket accidentally.
I don't even know where they sell a new socket for this, but you'd need to have a soldering station and know how to micro solder. assuming no pads where ripped off then you'd just solder it back down. if a pad broke then you'd need to run jumpers to fix it. in short its very difficult and expensive to fix unless you have the know how and the tools already.
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o la uña para levantar la solapa de retención del conector ZIF del cable plano de la cámara.
Be sure to fit the motherboard inbetween the joystick and volume slider in properly (you can double check by seeing if the volume slider on the outside goes up and down smoothly). When I closed it the first time it was stuck on full volume so I needed to go back in and readjust!
When putting the cable back I recommend to open the 3ds while keeping it face down so the cable has more room to fit.
Thank you so much, opening the 3ds is needed to fit the cable back easily.
Halefall -
The camera ribbon cable contacts face towards the motherboard, the speaker ones face away.
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Retira los siete tornillos Phillips que sujetan la placa base a la carcasa superior:
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Cuatro tornillos dorados de 2,5 mm
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Dos tornillos negros de 3,5 mm
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Un tornillo plateado de 2,5 mm.
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Levanta el lado de la placa base que se encuentra a lo largo del borde inferior de la 3DS.
Do yourself a favor and DON'T remove the 2.5 mm silver screw (yellow circle). It just holds in a little plastic bit under the volume control. The board comes out just fine with the screw still in. If you remove it, the plastic bit will fall out at random when you turn over the case.
First time I took mine apart, I noticed something fall out later, tracked it down and then puzzled over what it was and where it came from.
There is some adhesive where the AC adapter plugs in so I recommend watching out for that
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o la uña para levantar la solapa de retención en el zócalo ZIF del cable plano LCD.
Reinserting this ribbon cable is quite difficult. I found opening the case so that it sits upright at a 90 degree angle helps. The first two times I tried reassembling the top display did not work. Turned out that I was not inserting the ribbon cable in enough. I used tweezers to push this in by gently grabbing the ribbon cable. I was continually inspecting the cable for damage but apparently did not damage it. If anyone has a better idea on how to reinsert this cable I think others would greatly appreciate it.
Putting the cable back in is the hardest part out of all of this (if you can get past the screws near the beginning). If you have a friend that you trust very much and is very gentle, another pair of hands here really will help. If you're without a friend, make sure to use some flat, angled precision tweezers to push the ribbon in with one hand (pointed tweezers will do in a pinch but you'll have to be careful - I put a small dent in the ribbon and thought I'd broke it), and then use a spudge or something in the other to push the flap down.
Also worth noting is that the ribbon for the top screen also handles the 3D - if you complete the guide and find you are unable to turn the 3D effect off, you didn't insert the ribbon enough, as I had the problem and re-inserting the ribbon fully fixed it.
Careful when reassembling -- watch the position of the black wifi antenna wire! I got mine most of the way back together and noticed it wouldn't close all the way. This wire had come out of the little posts holding it in place and was wedged between the screen and motherboard. Now I have to take it all apart again to fix this.
Also if you're taking the board out of a working unit to get at the CLK signal to backup the NAND chip ("hardmod"), you don't need to remove the difficult ribbon cable in this step, or the other two wide ones at the top right from earlier. Leave them attached and swing the board out. It won't rotate a full 180 degrees to sit flat outside the unit, but you can open the screen 90 degrees to prop the rest up while having the board out on your table.
I am having problems re-inserting the three ribbon cables (3DS XL). Do you need to flip up the retaining flaps first? (I just pulled them out of the slots when removing them.
if the flap for the ribbon cable breaks what do you do
who else felt really proud after finally reinserting the cable
The easiest way to get that ribbon back in is to hold it with some reverse tweezers that I fix it sells and use it to grab the ribbon and hold it while you fiddle with getting the ribbon in the slot. It’s super easy this way. You’ll have it installed in 36 seconds. Try it. (Reverse tweezers…press to release ones)
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Retire el conjunto de la placa base del resto del dispositivo.
Make sure when putting the motherboard back onto the bottom part of the casing that the antenna wire is where it should be - the first time I put this back together the wire got loose and was smooshed in between the casing and the Y and Power buttons, causing them to be stiff/not work. Using the spudge should help in pushing the wire back into the slots along the inside of the case.
when reassembling, watch out for the wireless on/off slider - i had started screwing things back in when i realized the slider had slipped to the wrong side, making the slider non functional. by the same token, watch out for the volume slider on the other side.
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Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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