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Introducción

Follow this guide to replace your Droid's broken earpiece speaker.

  1. Power off your phone before you begin working. Insert a SIM eject tool, SIM eject bit, or a straightened paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray.
    • Power off your phone before you begin working.

    • Insert a SIM eject tool, SIM eject bit, or a straightened paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the phone.

  2. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the phone for a minute.
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the phone for a minute.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

  3. Angle an opening pick and firmly press so that it slips under the back cover. Depending on the age of the phone, this can be difficult. Additional heating with the iOpener may help. You can pry carefully with a metal spudger to create a gap for the opening pick.
    • Angle an opening pick and firmly press so that it slips under the back cover.

    • Depending on the age of the phone, this can be difficult. Additional heating with the iOpener may help. You can pry carefully with a metal spudger to create a gap for the opening pick.

    Use a heat gun to loosen adhesive prior top using spudger

    chris.reinert - Contestar

  4. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone to break up the adhesive. Use the pick to release the deeper areas but avoid slicing through the camera bezel area. Use the pick to release the deeper areas but avoid slicing through the camera bezel area.
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone to break up the adhesive.

    • Use the pick to release the deeper areas but avoid slicing through the camera bezel area.

    It took me over an hour to pry the back cover off the phone.   Don't give up – it can be done!  It takes some time, heat, and persistence to wedge the blue picks under the back.  And not knowing what is under there can cause stress!  Bottom line - don't be afraid to apply pressure to the pick to break the seal between the back and the metal edge, and then you can slide the pick in under the back cover without breaking any electronics.  I did not notice the blue plastic prying tool until after I wrestled the back off – I think that would have helped with the final peeling off stage.

    Thomas Johnson - Contestar

  5. Repeat the iOpener heating and slicing procedures for the remaining three sides. Make sure to cut into the deeper areas as the back cover is held on by a large adhesive surface. Make sure to cut into the deeper areas as the back cover is held on by a large adhesive surface.
    • Repeat the iOpener heating and slicing procedures for the remaining three sides.

    • Make sure to cut into the deeper areas as the back cover is held on by a large adhesive surface.

  6. Once you have cut through the adhesive, slowly peel the back cover away from the frame. Remove the back cover. During reassembly, follow this rear cover adhesive guide  to properly apply the pre-cut adhesive strip.
    • Once you have cut through the adhesive, slowly peel the back cover away from the frame.

    • Remove the back cover.

    • During reassembly, follow this rear cover adhesive guide to properly apply the pre-cut adhesive strip.

    Getting this back cover off with 4 little picks is nothing less than Fake News. The picks (and a halberd spudger) were good for cutting through adhesive on the outer edges, but a fair amount of heat and several plastic “playing cards” were needed to get to the adhesive holding down the cover on the middle of the device. Be VERY CAREFUL as you near the charging coil…2 little connectors near the bottom right could be easily severed. Take your time, use heat and patience.

    Jeana Morales - Contestar

  7. Insert an opening pick under the flash connector rubber cover and pry forward to remove it. To reinstall the cover, align the cover and use your finger to push it forward into place. To reinstall the cover, align the cover and use your finger to push it forward into place.
    • Insert an opening pick under the flash connector rubber cover and pry forward to remove it.

    • To reinstall the cover, align the cover and use your finger to push it forward into place.

    The two plastic covers do not fit snugly in place, so after putting them back in place, use small bits of electrical tape to secure them before installing a new adhesive back cover. I tested my phone thoroughly before the last step, so that I would not have to buy a new cover if something didn't work.

    Bill Koonce - Contestar

  8. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and remove the coil connector rubber cover. To reinstall the cover, align the cover and use your finger to push it forward into place. To reinstall the cover, align the cover and use your finger to push it forward into place.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and remove the coil connector rubber cover.

    • To reinstall the cover, align the cover and use your finger to push it forward into place.

    Careful! The cover popped off and flew 8 feet! (Over 2 meters!)

    Kenneth Lacewell - Contestar

  9. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flash connector. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flash connector.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

  10. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector.

  11. Remove the following T3 screws securing the midframe:
    • Remove the following T3 screws securing the midframe:

    • Thirteen 3.1 mm black screws

    • Four 4.3 mm silver screws

    My phone (purchased 12/2015) has only 2 silver screws top and bottom (4 total), and they're also T3, not Philips.

    With a Torx screw this tiny, it pays to take time to make sure that the driver is well seated before turning it. This will eliminate stripped screws. Also, I loosened each screw first, and then removed them. Breaking them free before turning them also helps prevent stripping.

    Bill Koonce - Contestar

    eitherway its a T4 torx in my phone. Double checked my bit. T-4 same for all these screws

    Raymond Lewis - Contestar

    T4 in mine as well. Stripped out a T3 bit figuring this out.

    Shane Kennington -

    They were all T3’s in the one I am repairing. Must be different depending on where it is manufactured.

    James Blaine - Contestar

    I recommend placing your phone down on a flat surface and then you can put good pressure straight down to remove the screws.

    Leif Thorson - Contestar

    One of the small screws was stripped. I used a 1/8” drill to eliminate the head - very . The mid-plane came off, and I finished removing the screw with a small pair of needle-nose pliers.

    Larry Peterson - Contestar

    the phone I opened used a T4 bit as well

    Josef Bosnyak - Contestar

    The screws in my phone were both sizes. I had to use the T3 and T4. A few of the screws would not take either bit (I had to use a dremel tool to strip it slightly so the T4 would fit it). Luckily, I had some replacements.

    Beth - Contestar

    At first I thought my toolkit only came with a T5, which was too large. Then I found the T3 bit in a ziplock back with an alcohol swab. It worked, but it had some slack, so my screws may have been T4, but I didn’t have that option.

    Brian Martin - Contestar

  12. Insert an opening pick along the frame seam and twist slightly to release the midframe from the phone. Insert an opening pick along the frame seam and twist slightly to release the midframe from the phone.
    • Insert an opening pick along the frame seam and twist slightly to release the midframe from the phone.

  13. Remove the midframe from the phone. You can tape over the side buttons to prevent them from falling out during your repair.
    • Remove the midframe from the phone.

    • You can tape over the side buttons to prevent them from falling out during your repair.

    • If the buttons fall out of the midframe, reinsert them in the orientation as shown before you reinstall the midframe.

    The buttons will NOT "fall in" when reassembling, so it's important to remember to put them back. I found that putting them in the frame before replacing it is the only way. Check to see how they fit on the phone first, then drop them into their slots outside-in. The power button will fit only one way; the volume buttons should go in oriented as they fit best on the phone. Be sure to test them to make sure they click freely often! It's easier to readjust them before all those screws are back in.

    Bill Koonce - Contestar

    Going to make a small etch on the very bottom (as the phone is held portrait) of each button before beginning the project. A fine tip Sharpie might also work for some people.

    Dan - Contestar

    I have not done this yet but, try using a small bit of electrical tape to secure them to the mid-frame before removal

    jerryj26 - Contestar

    Yes, a small strip of tape on the mid frame to hold the buttons in place works great. Thanks for the idea. I simply put a piece over the buttons and onto the whole frame, then cut it carefully along the edge between the glass an mid frame when I separated the two piece. This held the buttons nicely in place and ready for reinstalling.

    Rob Reynolds -

    Be careful putting the mid-plane back on. The volume control innards were bent and straightening it back out took a lot of time - on phone #2.

    Larry Peterson - Contestar

    My contact wires got bent the first time I took a phone apart. I am pretty sure I bent them when I was prying the phone open (not while I was putting back together). Now I'm extra careful prying the phone open on the volume button side and it hasn't happened again.

    Beth -

    It sounds like people like the tape idea and it’s a helpful step, so I’ve added it into the guide step. Thanks for the comments!

    Arthur Shi - Contestar

    I tried taping the side buttons on but they slipped out anyway.  Observe the photo to replace them in the proper orientation.  It’s actually quite easy, and I’m not certain how effective taping them would ultimately be as it’s important to seat the slots over the tabs inside the body.  You need to be an extraordinary taper to stick them in place such that they “presto!” drop in place when reinstalling the mainframe

    Thomas Johnson - Contestar

    I found that it helped a lot to put a screw in around the down volume button, when reassembling, to prevent the buttons from falling out. That is after you had popped the mid frame and the phone together. I also agree with using the electrical tape to prevent the buttons from falling out.

    Michelle Dailey - Contestar

  14. The earpiece speaker module is very delicate and prone to breaking. Be gentle when handling the module. Insert a pointed end of a pair of tweezers into a corner as far down as possible.
    • The earpiece speaker module is very delicate and prone to breaking. Be gentle when handling the module.

    • Insert a pointed end of a pair of tweezers into a corner as far down as possible.

    • Pry very slightly to help loosen the earpiece speaker module.

    • Repeat the process in the remaining corners.

    The warning about the speaker module being “very delicate and prone to breaking" is no joke! I took the speaker out of the phone I was repairing with no issue. When I attempted to take the speaker out of the phone I was salvaging parts from, the front “screen" part of the speaker stayed stuck to the phone as I pulled the module out. It fell apart, accordion style; the innards falling out in stages. I'm guessing I did not shove the point of the tweezer quite far enough in while I was prying it out.

    Beth - Contestar

  15. Continue to pry with the point of a pair of tweezers until the earpiece module feels loose. Remove the earpiece module. Remove the earpiece module.
    • Continue to pry with the point of a pair of tweezers until the earpiece module feels loose.

    • Remove the earpiece module.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Motorola Moto Droid Turbo 2 Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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Arthur Shi

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I replaced my earpiece speaker but the volume is still extremely low. My headphones jack output is also very low when I plug it into and external speaker. Before this happened, This all started after I accidentally got some water on my phone but not enough to drench it. My speaker first sounded distorted when making a phone call and now the volume is so low that I can just barely hear it. Definitely too low to converse with someone. Is the fault in my motherboard? I've cleaned up all the obvious grounding points in my phone. Not sure what else I can check. Thinking about completely disassembling, replacing the ear speaker again doing a hard reset and if all those fail replace the phone. Any thoughts?

jeffrey - Contestar

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