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MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2012 Heat Sink Replacement

Escrito Por: Andrew Optimus Goldheart (y 4 de otros participantes)
  • Comentarios: 167
  • Favoritos: 14
  • Terminaciones: 37

Dificultad

Difícil

Pasos

24

Tiempo Requerido

50 minutos - 2 horas

Secciones

5

Banderas

0

Introducción

Use this guide to replace the heat sink. This repair requires removal of the logic board and application of new thermal paste.

  1. Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • When removing these screws, note how they come out at a slight angle. They must be reinstalled the same way.

    Traducir

  2. Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

    • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    Traducir

  3. For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), disconnecting the battery connector is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not disconnect the battery connector, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified. Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

    • For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), disconnecting the battery connector is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not disconnect the battery connector, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.

    • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

    Traducir

  4. Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

    Traducir

  5. Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • Two 3.5 mm T6 Torx screws.

    • One 4.2 mm T6 Torx screw.

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  6. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the left fan connector from the logic board. It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector. The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the left fan connector from the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket.

    • The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

    Traducir

  7. Lift the left fan out of the upper case.

    • Lift the left fan out of the upper case.

    Traducir

  8. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the right fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the right fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    Traducir

  10. Remove the three 3.4 mm (3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board. Lift the right fan out of its opening in the logic board.

    • Remove the three 3.4 mm (3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board.

    • Lift the right fan out of its opening in the logic board.

    Traducir

  11. Pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Don't lift upward on the camera cable as you disconnect it. Pulling upward on the cable may damage both the cable and the logic board. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

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  12. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    Traducir

  13. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the optical drive connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the optical drive connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    Traducir

  14. Disconnect the hard drive/IR sensor cable from its socket on the logic board by lifting up from beneath its connector.

    • Disconnect the hard drive/IR sensor cable from its socket on the logic board by lifting up from beneath its connector.

    Traducir

  15. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the subwoofer/right speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the subwoofer/right speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Traducir

  16. Remove the two 1.5 mm ( 1.2 mm ) Phillips screws securing the keyboard/trackpad cable cover to the logic board. Lift the cover off the logic board and set it aside.

    • Remove the two 1.5 mm ( 1.2 mm ) Phillips screws securing the keyboard/trackpad cable cover to the logic board.

    • Lift the cover off the logic board and set it aside.

    Traducir

  17. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    Traducir

  18. Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Traducir

  19. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery indicator connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery indicator connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    Traducir

  20. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    Traducir

  21. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are flipping up the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are flipping up the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Traducir

  22. Remove the following nine screws:

    • Remove the following nine screws:

    • Seven 3.4 mm ( 3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws on the logic board

    • Two 8 mm T6 Torx screws on the DC-In board

    Traducir

  23. Carefully lift the logic board assembly from its left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the optical drive cable and the I/O ports that may get caught during removal. If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to separate the microphone from the upper case. Pull the I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly.

    • Carefully lift the logic board assembly from its left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the optical drive cable and the I/O ports that may get caught during removal.

    • If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to separate the microphone from the upper case.

    • Pull the I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly.

    Traducir

  24. Lay the logic board down on a soft flat surface with the heat sink facing up.

    • Lay the logic board down on a soft flat surface with the heat sink facing up.

    • Remove the six #1 Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    • Keep track of the small springs housed under each screw.

    Traducir

  25. Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • If the heat sink appears to be stuck to the logic board after removing all six screws, it may be helpful to use a spudger to separate the two components.

    • If you need to mount the heat sink back onto the logic board, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

    Traducir
Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Autor

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Miembro Desde 17/10/09

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3 comentarios

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There is a wire under the logicboard that seems impossible due too short to reconnect to the logicboard. This wire comes from the keyboard side case. Is anyone with my sane problem? How dis you resolve it? Tks in advance for your help! https://s29.postimg.org/qakuiofxj/IMG_16...

Zzapp - Contestar

I have upgraded Mac Pros a few times doing the CPU upgrade on 2009 5,1 and 2010 dual CPUs but this looks really tough. My mid 2012 macbook pro runs hot like 98c when under full load. I would like to replace the thermal paste but this looks like its just too risky. NIce job though on the Fixit post.

Lance McVickar - Contestar

Why do you think it’s too risky to change the thermal paste? You actually don’t need to do all those steps to just change the paste, and it’s as easy as wiping the old clean with an alcohol wipe and applying a pee-size amount on the side of the heatsink covering your CPU and voilà. It’s actually much easier to do than removing the entirety of the heatsink, as shown here, which you only need to do to replace the heatsink itself (which difficulty is such that I highly doubt it’s worthing it; just changing the paste will make a big difference). This video will shot you how to only replace the paste without having to remove the entire heatsink, nor remove the motherboard from the aluminium casing itself : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOkmmpba...

Jas Bataille -

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