Introducción
Esta guía es sólo prerrequisito.
Qué necesitas
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Saca el conector del cable de la cámara recto de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar con cuidado el cable plano AirPort/Bluetooth de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
This step literally ruined my MacBook Pro. The ribbon cable pulled off of the logic board, and will no longer reconnect.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca y sacar los cuatro conectores de antena de sus zócalos en la placa AirPort/Bluetooth.
I found the problem with my wifi: sadly the connector solder joint j4 of the wifi board was not stable enough. now the socket is inside of the connector and not joined with the board. How do I remove the socket from inside of the connector? Is this even possible?
Replying to Bodo Tasche:
The antenna connection sockets are only held onto the wifi board with solder, on two small pads, so it is easy to break one of them off, I have done it on one occasion. I was able to pull the remains of the socket out of the antenna wire plug with tweezers, but had to replace the damaged wifi board with another one.
Here’s another thing to consider if your Unibody MacBook Pro has wifi problems: Your wifi ANTENNA. The antenna is mounted in the center of the display hinge. The antenna wires — the same ones that plug onto the wifi board — can break from repeated flexing at the point they pass through the hinge into the display. This was the cause of my wifi issues. Swapping the wifi board made no difference.
If your wifi connection stats show consistently very low signal strength and signal-to-noise, even with a nearby access point, consider the possibility that the antenna may need replacement. (It’s a difficult repair, and iFixit doesn’t seem to currently have a guide for it.)
Thanks James - Antenna was my issue (good WiFi sat directly next to router - zero WiFi >1m away from it.
Antenna Replacement guide now (2023) posted:
MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2012 Airport and Bluetooth Antenna Replacement
Ross -
I would leave these attached and just dangling if you don’t need to replace the Airport/bluetooth board. They’re a pain to reattach and breakage seems somewhat common.
If you DO end up detaching these, I found it easiest to pry up gently from the wire side to remove, but also the reattach them the same way, with the wire side high. That means you want to tuck the cables AFTER reattaching them, except for the longest one of the 5, which needs to be tucked first. Be careful all quite delicate.
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Desenruta los cuatro cables de antena de sus canales en la carcasa del AirPort/Bluetooth.
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Desenruta el cable de la cámara de su canal en la carcasa del AirPort/Bluetooth.
Long antenna cable was a little tricky, harder to de-route...slide to narrow part of cable, and then lift out from under the tab
Great tip. Really helped cable removal.
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Retira los dos tornillos siguientes que fijan el ensamblaje AirPort/Bluetooth a la carcasa superior:
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Un tornillo Phillips de 8,6 mm
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Un tornillo Phillips de 3,9 mm
I want to know Lot No. of " 3.9 mm Phillips screw" Step 9.
That was broken... :( Is there anyone who can help me?
the same problem, do you know which size the screw is??
Looking for replacement screws for the Airport/Bluetooth module. The head stripped and I was able to successfully remove the damaged screw but now I need a replacement. If I could get the part number for the screws I could probably order it. It's the screw on the right in step 9.
MacGyver, how did you finally remove that screw? Same problem here.
Heinz -
Also curious. Both screws are stripped on mine.
Bumping this. I need to know the screw sizes too.
Can i replace a faulty 2011 15" screen with the same one from a 2010 15" model with the same resolution?
Are they interchangeable?
It is possible, yes.
I’ve used a J00 (JIS00) Screw Driver Bit from the iFixIt Set and it works for me. You have to put pressure from the top of the screw driver while screwing.
I stripped out the 3.9mm Phillips screw yesterday; tried the rubber band trick without success. Ended up taking a 1/16” drill bit and drilling just through the top of the head of the screw (head popped off) allowing the bracket to come out. I left the body of the screw in the post; upgraded my card to 802.11ac, and the upgrade doesn’t utilize the bracket.
If I really wanted to, I can grab the exposed portion of the screw body with some vice grips and rotate it out…
Hi Yoron, I also want to make this upgrade, can you give me details? Thanks!
Dragos G -
What is the rubber band trick?
The screw extracting pliers hkitago points to look good - but in my computer the head of the screw on the right of the diagram is recessed in the frame of the wifi/bluetooth assembly, so I figure I would not be able to get a grip on the head of the screw with these pliers, right?
So far I have "successfully" )-: stripped the head of the screw on the right of the diagram (above, step 9), as many others appear to have done, but not dared to proceed any further until I figured out how to remove that screw without breaking the frame of the wifi/bluetooth assembly or anything else?
How did you solve this problem?
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Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a montar el dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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This step did not provide enough direction and is the reason my cable is either broke/not working now. I tried pulling it out of the logic board, as indicated, but it did not budge. I was extremely careful not to damage it, so I gave up on trying to remove it once I saw that it wasn't moving. Lo and behold, once I fired the Macbook up again, the camera is no longer connected. This step should have additional details/explanation as to why the cable may not come out/what to do if it doesn't (I was able to proceed to the next steps by working around the cable, so it didn't even have to be removed as the guide might have you think).
Does anyone know how to properly fix it/where to buy a replacement camera/iSight cable? I would like to fix this if possible.
jackalbert - Contestar
I would like to add – several months later, my Macbook Pro failed to turn on and the motherboard had to be replaced. I'm giving partial blame to this guide for failing to adequately describe how to safely proceed on this step (I suspect a bad wifi card was part of the problem). Anyone else following this guide be very wary!
jackalbert - Contestar