Introducción
This Guide will show you how to replace your MacBook Pro's USB-C/Thunderbolt Ports.
Qué necesitas
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Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.
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Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
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'sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:
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Two 6.2 mm screws
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Four 3.4 mm screws
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Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.
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Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.
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Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.
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Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.
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Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.
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Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.
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Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.
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Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
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Remove the tape.
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Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
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Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two screws.
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Two T3 Torx Screws.
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Carefully peel back the black tape to reveal the ZIF connector.
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Unlatch the ZIF connector by flicking the arm on the connector upwards and carefully remove the cable from the connector by sliding it out.
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Repeat this process with the newly revealed connector.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two screws.
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Once the screw have been removed carefully remove the metal shield.
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Under the metal shield there is a connector, carefully unplug it.
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Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the two screws.
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Two T4 Torx screws.
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Carefully remove the metal shield.
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The second cable you will disconnect will be lightly adhered so carefully slide a plastic spudger under it and finally unplug it.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four screws.
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4 T3 Torx screws.
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Once the screws are removed carefully remove the metal shields.
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Carefully unclip the connector.
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Disconnect the cables carefully with a plastic pry tool.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two screws.
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Remove the metal shield carefully.
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Carefully unplug the connector.
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Carefully peel back the black tape to reveal the ZIF connector.
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Unlatch the ZIF connector by flicking the arm on the connector upwards and carefully remove the cable from the connector by sliding it out.
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Repeat this process with the newly revealed connector.
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Carefully peel back the black tape to reveal the ZIF connector.
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Unlatch the ZIF connector by flicking the arm on the connector upwards and carefully remove the cable from the connector by sliding it out.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two screws.
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Once the screw have been removed carefully remove the metal shield.
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Under the metal shield there is a connector, carefully unplug it.
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Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the screw.
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T4 Torx screw.
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Remove the metal shield carefully.
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Carefully unplug the connector.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4mm screws securing the bracket.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.4mm screws securing the display cable bracket.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.2mm screws securing the display cable bracket.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two screws.
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Two T5 screws
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Carefully remove the port
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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5Guía Comentarios
If it doesn't turn on first try just keep troubleshooting. I had to disconnect the zip connector for the battery and reconnect it and then really smash (maybe not smash, but firmly press on every section of the case) down the case (I don't think it turns on otherwise). Otherwise great guide even though there are some things that are repeated and small steps that are omitted (unplugging and removing a bracket in step 18). Also would have been nice to see some pictures underneath the brackets. Felt like I was just poking around at times. Also, don't get the data alliance thing. You don't need it.
Also be completely prepared for this repair to potentially do absolutely nothing. I had one USB C port go out so I tried this and it did nothing. Apparently there's a USBC controller issue on the logic board.
The first step seems so pointless as you should have the battery disconnected anyway.
