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MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement

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  1. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement, Lower Case: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    Herramienta utilizada en este paso:
    P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
    $5.99
    Comprar
    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

  2. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

  3. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement, Battery Connector: paso 3, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement, Battery Connector: paso 3, imagen 2 de 2
    • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it or you risk damage to the connector socket.

  4. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement, I/O Board Cable: paso 4, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

  5. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 5, imagen 1 de 1
    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

    • During reassembly, make sure this cable is in the correct orientation. It will fit if reversed, but the laptop will not boot.

  6. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 6, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 6, imagen 2 de 2
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

  7. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement, Fan: paso 7, imagen 1 de 1
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  8. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 8, imagen 1 de 1
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

  9. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 9, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

  10. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 10, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 10, imagen 2 de 2
    • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

  11. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement, I/O Board: paso 11, imagen 1 de 1
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

  12. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 12, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 12, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

  13. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 13, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 13, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  14. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 14, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

  15. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 15, imagen 1 de 2 MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 15, imagen 2 de 2
    • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

  16. MacBook Air 13" Early 2014 I/O Board Replacement: paso 16, imagen 1 de 1
    • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

32 personas más completaron esta guía.

Jeff Suovanen

Miembro Desde 08/06/13

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iFixit Miembro de iFixit

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6 comentarios

I did this as my first DIY repair inside a MacBook. I'm pretty handy, but nothing close to a computer tech. I studied the guide a few times; ordered the Pentalope driver; bought a magnifying hobby light; set up an organized workstation and went to work. I did sweat through several of the cable and ribbon strap removals, but if you take your time and follow the guide it should work. I did find that having a set of precision tweezers and a couple of plastic spudgers was extremely helpful.

My need to attempt this was the result of stupidly spilling a beer all across my keyboard. After drying it out via a fan blowing on it 24/7 for 2 days I decided to crack it open and look for water damage to the LSI's . The area that appeared to be hit the worst was the I/0 board. So I removed it & cleaned with Isopropyl. Afterward, everything fired up and seemed to work fine. Until today. Now the left USB port seems to have died. Probably will replace the board. This guide made it possible. Thanks Jeff and Ifixit.

Jay Quilty - Contestar

Very precise guide. I’d say I had this apart, the new board in and put back together in about 30 minutes. like stated above, take your time with some of the more delicate cables and you should be fine. Thanks Jeff.

tristan wy - Contestar

I changed the i / o board and then did not write the serial number in the machine properties.

jokers5 - Contestar

Thanks, really great to have resources like this available. Only suggestion would be to make the photos a higher resolution so you can zoom in better. Whilst I am fairly handy with this sort of this I managed to replace my I/O board after the old one got killed by a damaged powersupply that developed a short on the DC side.

chris wignall - Contestar

Great instructions. Purchased the tools, followed the steps…and it worked. Very easy. Saved me a ton of hassle since I live in a rural area far from any repair locations. Thanks!

J. Wood - Contestar

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