Introducción
Use this guide to replace a broken display assembly in a MacBook Air 11" Early 2015.
Qué necesitas
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Herramienta utilizada en este paso:P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air$5.99
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Remove the following ten screws:
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Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
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Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
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Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
My replacement battery (bought from Fixje in the Netherlands) had a rather thick rubber plate glued onto the top of the battery connector, which made it difficult to reattach the back cover. Specifically, the clip in the middle of the back cover could not reach into the slot.
The rubber plate could be removed which made the back close (and also made it look like the battery connector of the original battery), but the middle clip would nevertheless not attach with a clicking sound. Still, the back covers attached tightly and does not flex when pressed in the middle.
It's possible that that specific replacement battery is a hair of a millimetre thicker than the original battery which prevents the middle clip to reach into the slot fully.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally bend back and make contact with its socket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left and right I/O board cable connectors up off their respective sockets on the I/O board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the iSight camera cable connector to loosen it out of its socket on the logic board.
There's a step missing here which is to remove the large flat cable that runs across the fan.
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Peel the iSight camera cable up off the adhesive securing it to the fan.
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Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card, and move them out of the way.
Be very careful. When I did this - just as in the photo - I prised the top of the antenna connector off from the bottom of it, leaving me with only one functioning antenna.
You can usually pull the airport card out of the socket and let it dangle by the attached wires. They can be frustrating to re-attach.
This seems like great advice! Any more details would be greatly appreciated
Just walk it out slowly. The cables don’t have a lot of slack, so if you pull too hard on the card it may yank the cables out of their sockets, or worse, when it comes free.
When I did this, one antenna connection broke off and the other will not reattach for love nor money. I have not idea how to fix it. I’d try a blob of solder if my fingers were the size of matchsticks! Haha
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Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
Did it wrong to begin with by taking the complete socket away and not just the insert. Now I can’t get the socket back on the logic board contacts. Any ideas?
I have the same issue! Did you find a solution?
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Use the tip of a spudger to de-route the antenna cables from their notches in the logic board.
They're not clicking back in when I reassemble it
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Gently lift the logic board assembly from the heat sink end and pull it away from the port side of the case to remove it from the Air.
There's a screw that's connecting the logic board to the casing that has to be removed before sliding the logic board out. I found that out the hard way.
Only 3 were in mine, where did you find another screw?
When replacing the logic board, make sure you haven’t trapped an antenna cable underneath. Easy to sort it out now, much more annoying if you only discover it after screwing everything down first!
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Remove the small rubber gasket from the corner of the upper case nearest the the I/O board.
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Remove the gasket from the corner nearest display cable connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry under the speaker cable near the connector, lifting it straight up from its socket.
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De-route the cable from its notch in the logic board.
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Peel up the six cable loops securing the antenna cables to the upper case.
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Gently pull the cable loops slightly out of the channel cut into the upper case one at a time.
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Use your spudger to open up the plastic loops as you de-route the antenna cables through them.
On the reassemble phase, rethread these before you reattach the display/
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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3 comentarios
I was able to bring back my MacBook Air for just the cost of the parts after the Apple Store quoted the repair at costing almost as much as the device itself! My Ifixit kit had everything I needed to do the job with ease.
was able to ebay a new screen and followed this guide to replace my macbook air. Thanks !
This is an amazing guide. I was able to replace the screen in an hour. Noticed that in 13” models, I believe that this is a bit easier. Apple made it not super easy to replace the screen on this one, since we literally have to take everything apart to replace the display.
The tricky part was the little loops in which the bluetooth cables go through - I used a pair of tweezers to be careful not to remove them off and put the new cables back. Too bad Apple use a mix of so many different screws - I put each set of screws on a paper page and wrote where the screws go.
Everything else was fairly easy. Super important to have the right tools though.
Thanks Sam for your work, I saved $400 thanks to this guide.
When you say:
Remove the following ten screws:
Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.
Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?
Nerdily yours,
Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)
larryleveen - Contestar
The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).
Michael Welham -
I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.
Allen - Contestar
The magnetic mat is
GERARD SZAREK -
Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.
Frank O'Carroll - Contestar
A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.
Michael Mee - Contestar
Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!
Lilljedahl -
I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.
It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.
I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?
AMG - Contestar
The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)
Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.
Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372
Hope this helps! -Dan
danielwen -
I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?
Robert Hermans - Contestar
Hi Robert!
Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!
Arthur Shi -
Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy
vensilver - Contestar
Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.
Arthur Shi -
The smaller screws went in more easily when I put back all the screws along the hinge edge first.
Rachel Slatkin - Contestar