Introducción

You are now going to:

  1. Open the Time Capsule
  2. Disconnect and remove the Power Supply
  3. Installing a new power supply if your old one is broken. Or re-install your old power supply if you do this for fun.
Place a piece of cloth or a similar soft material on a clean, flat surface. Place the device upside down on top of the fabric.
  • Place a piece of cloth or a similar soft material on a clean, flat surface. Place the device upside down on top of the fabric.

  • Open the Time Capsule by exposing the screws that hold the device together. The screws are concealed by the rubber base, which is the bottom surface of the device.

    • Use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the rubber base, which softens the adhesive holding it on.

    • Starting in a corner, carefully lift the rubber base to prevent tearing. You can use a guitar pick or a small, plastic ruler to help separate the rubber from the metal.

      • Take your time to prevent tearing the adhesive. Ensure that you don't overheat the device.

      • If you tear some of the adhesive, don't worry. The existing adhesive is more than enough to allow the rubber base to stick back onto the unit during reassembly.

      • During reassembly, you can apply heat to the rubber base. This will enable the adhesive to flow and form a better bond with the device's metal casing.

Slowly start peeling at one corner... worked better than shown on the pictures.

Markus - Contestar

Slow down particularly near the bottom label where it is stiffer. Either that or I needed to give it more heat. Going too fast can risk tearing the rubber base if the adhesive is strong.

ElvinC - Contestar

If you are wondering if the Time Capsule will still work as a router if you remove the HDD and leave it out, the answer (according to another webpage I read) is YES, it will still work. Apparently, you get a warning with the AIrPort Utility about a missing HDD, but it still works. I wanted to keep and reuse the 1TB Hitachi HDD for offsite data backup.

CraigH - Contestar

Use an iron instead of a heating gun or hairdryer!

Gradually raise the temperature while checking for separation, while moving over the rubber. I first cleaned the rubber with some soap, to avoid scorching dust or grease. The setting for synthetic fabrics seemed to do the job with my Tefal iron; probably a little over 100 degrees centigrade. No steam off course!

Worked like a charm without leaving almost any residual glue.

Sticking the rubber sole back after the repair was also successful.

Frits de Bruijn - Contestar

Once the rubber base is separated from the device, remove the 8 Phillips PH00 screws that attach the metal bottom of the case to the plastic top of the case.
  • Once the rubber base is separated from the device, remove the 8 Phillips PH00 screws that attach the metal bottom of the case to the plastic top of the case.

    • Use the Philiips #00 Screwdriver.

  • Some revisions of the Time Capsule have 10 screws. The A1254 revision has two screws in the upper right and lower left corners, as shown in the second image. In this situation, be sure to remove all 10 screws.

Confirmimg 10 screws for Model A1355

pkeenan8 - Contestar

Larger screwdriver size can help with sticky screws.

ElvinC - Contestar

One of my screws was already stripped by Apple, so I had to drill it out.

CraigH - Contestar

  • Position the rear side of the device (the side with Ethernet connectors) so that it is facing you.

  • Lift up the left side of the metal plate and slowly flip it over the right edge of the device.

    • To prevent damage, do not lift the metal plate straight up or use force. As shown in the second picture, the fan is attached to the metal plate and connected to the logic board next to the power connector.

  • Since many people have had serious problems with the fan power connnector breaking, it is advisable to NOT try to disconnect the fan power connector. Be VERY careful with this connector. It is extremely fragile. If you absolutely have to disconnect the fan from the logic board, VERY carefully use a spudger or tweezers to do so.

It is really not necessary to disconnect the fan and you risk breaking it off of the logic board. :(

rdemby - Contestar

I'd destroyed the connection between my fan and logic board by trying to remove the fan. This is a bigger problem than a broken hard drive. DO NOT TRY TO DISCONNECT THE FAN. Instead be careful with the base (making sure not to stretch the fan wire) as your proceed to step four.

redmonton11 - Contestar

I wish I had read the comments too!! DO NOT try to disconnect the fan!!!! The connector broke off with out a lot of force. Now I have a worthless piece of metal and plastic!!!!

mightyquinn6362 - Contestar

This is not my guide, but in order to try to prevent future damage, I've edited the guide to warn against disconnecting the fan from the logic board. Hopefully the update will be approved soon :0\

Jeff G -

Replaced 2 x 1500 uF capacitors ant the Time capsule is back to work !

Thanks for this guide.

gilberto - Contestar

I had no issues removing the fan plug from the board.

angelopadilla - Contestar

I used a block to lean the cover on so it didn't fall completely flat on the surface. The wire connecting the fan is too short for that.

pkeenan8 - Contestar

  • Power supply shown in blue

  • Start by removing the AC plug by lifting it straight up.

should read "remove the AC plug" -- it's not a DC plug (as that's what the mains lead plugs into :)

Lawrence Conroy - Contestar

  • Using a spudger, unplug the cable that supplies the motherboard with power. There's a clip to release the locking mechanism; make sure to press and release the clip before pulling up on the connector.

  • Then, using the same spudger, unplug the HDD power cable.

  • If you're not used to working with data plugs in tight spaces it could be a good idea to remove the HDD first. Consult the HDD removal guide for instructions.

When I did this with a version 1 TC, I found it easier to pull out the SATA plug first to move it out the way, then squeeze the clip on the motherboard power connector while pulling it up (with the other hand). I have fat fingers, but this way worked for me.

Lawrence Conroy - Contestar

  • Lift the power supply out of its mountings.

  • The mounts can snag the motherboard somewhat. Just fiddle it a little and it will come loose.

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Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

73 personas más completaron esta guía.

rousp

Miembro Desde 18/02/10

6,114 Reputación

10 Guías creadas

Hi there,

thanks a lot for this topic,

I have no problems getting there to change the power supply, my only concern is where can i find a replacement power supply?

thanks

flow sebastien - Contestar

as with sebastien... I too need to replace the power supply... but the power supply page is blank. Can someone please advise?

Michael - Contestar

Hi there,

if you like me want the cheapest repair for your time capsule, it is possible to repair the power supply for as less as 2$

http://raphsallyoucanknow.blogspot.ch/20...

raphael - Contestar

Hello,

Nice guide!

However, where can we find a reliable power supply?

Muchas gracias!!

Valyno

valyno - Contestar

The power supply has electrolytic condensers. they age: the electrolyte evaporates, or the leads corrode. you can solder them out and replace them. mine died after 6 years because the 39uF 400volt, the long ones kicked the bucket. i replaced them for 5euro each and my unit is back online

wilfried - Contestar

Wilfried - is there a way to know which capacitors are dead/need to be replaced? It looks like you had to replace: "39uF 400volt, the long ones", and Jorcorand had to replace "2 x 1500 uF capacitors". Are they the same or different? Are there more to choose from? What's the best way to identify the dead ones?

Joshua -

Thank you very much for this guide.

I had to replace 2 x 1500 uF capacitors ant the Time capsule is back to work...It's amazing when you see the Time Capsule lights turn on again!! :)

Jorcorand - Contestar

Very good resource - Thank you! But where can I purchase the part? Please advise! Thanks again!

P Kahn - Contestar

Thanks, I recently moved to a new house, and of course reinstalled my old TC (model A1355). When I plugged it in, nothing, no light. Following the above instructions, I removed the rubber-foot and plugged it in again. The TC worked again. A few days later, with the TC unpowered for two days, when powered, no light, the TC did not work. Heated the base of the unit again with a hairdryer a bit, plugged it in, all was working fine again.

janopdebeeck - Contestar

This was a very helpful set of instructions. My A1302 is up and running again! Thanks!

I simply removed and checked all the capacitors. Different brands were used: Rubycon, Samson, Koshin and Su’scon. I simply used the capacitance checker on my multimeter. Only the Su’scon capacitor’s capacitance appeared to be about 50% below spec! In fact, very much in line with the quality ranking published on good’ol Tom’s Hardware (https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/pow...). Eventually replaced all capacitors for which I could buy a replacement at the local electronic components store; a bike ride distance. The 47uF’s (C3 and C4) were the only ones for which I couldn’t find a replacement so quickly; they were still within spec, so I placed them back.

After replacement of the other capacitors, I added the (repaired) power-unit cover and the machine became alive again.

Frits de Bruijn - Contestar

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