How to Repair the Flashing Red Light of the Zeppelin

Will this work on the older model as well? Not the air, the first model (with native support for iPhone 4 etc)? Im having the same problem.

Has anyone succesfully repaired / replaced their power supply?

I've removed mine and no bulging capacitors but a tiny intergrated circuit black chip on the rear looks like its blown/shorted out.

its miniscue though, no idea what to replace it with if I even could

anyone tried a new power supply from anywhere?

Hi

I have opend the Zeppelin but cannot find any inflated capacitor nor can i find any 2,220 uF 16V 105°C capacitor

WHAT capacitor ?? Radial - Vertical cylinder. Both the leads come out the bottom of the cylinder along the radius.

Axial- Horizontal cylinder. One lead end along the axis of the cylinder.

Disc - A Disc. Leads come out on the bottom, generally following the circumference of the disc.

where is it located the 2,200 cap?

Mis zeppelin dejaron de sonar y ahora cuando lo prendo suena un golpe seco y deja de sonar pero si prende normal solo no suena y es el ruido fuerte del principio, que pudiese ser??

Worked for me; exactly that one capacitor. I even built a capacitor ESR tester to check the others, and they were all fine.

Hey guys! (sorry girls, but I think you are not in this topic)

I have another solution. Actually I had some other signs of malfunction. Red light was flashing, but I knew that the 30 pin stick head was a little bit damaged. Sometimes it worked, sometimes not. With AUX it worked then. So I used it with AUX line in (small jack) but then it just started not to work with that also. Stopped after 10 seconds, no sound, but red light flashing.

I went to the closest store to buy the proper TORX screwers and started to do something.

Well, you know I always wanted to buy a new, AIR one, without the 30 pin bar. Bluetooth receivers are available and as I jumped into the investigation, I saw that 30pin bluetooth adapters are not compatible with the Zeppelin. But you can buy AUX Line in (small jack) bluetooth adapter for 10 bucks also, so why not use that instead?

So I removed the 30pin bar from the Zeppelin as I started to “repair” my loving Dear, and then I saw that the wires are connected just with a simple slip in connect.

And as I saw, there are some very tiny and just gray but corrosions, I tried to test the speaker without it. And it was working fine!

I couldn’t believe it, but it seems okay. Without changing whatever. And YES! You see right. A 30 pin version, first serie of the Zeppelin can work without the iPhone holder bar.

If it will have problem again, I will have no other way than to go on but I have a feeling that my problem was a connection wreckage of the phone holding bar. I could also solve it by fixing the connection maybe but I hate leaving my phone there on the speaker and looks better without it anyway.

Hope it helps to some of you! Good luck!

Hi, this is me again, the Zeppelin gone wrong again in 1 day. So that I followed all instruction written above. Taken out the board and took it to a mechanic. He changed the 2200 105 capacitor and another one, charged me 5 EUR (Spanish price) and was ready within 1 hour.

My first suggestion to all of you - not to be afraid to start this project. It is really nothing. I have never before disassembled a speaker but I was ready within 10 minutes. (8 minutes were the speaker cover removal) Assembly was another 4 minutes.

The Zeppelin works flawlessly since then. I felt like having some sound quality issues but maybe it was only a “there must be something” feeling, so I made a firmware update (another 20 sec) and the Zeppelin has been going fine without any problem for 3 days now. I never turn it off, only for sleeping and it still goes.

Thanks for the topic, it was a cheap solution (except the damaging of a cover which was fxcking hard to remove.

Hola buenas tardes, tengo el mismo problema que isaac, Rune Christiansen,

cambié los condensadores y todo perfecto, pero ahora me ha dado un problema la fuente de alimentación, me podeis decir donde compraron las fuente de alimentacion?,

POR FAVOR AYUDA….

Necesito saber donde comprar la fuente de alimentacion. Gracias.

Hello good afternoon, I have the same problem as Isaac, Rune Christiansen,

I changed the capacitors and everything was perfect, but now the power supply has given me a problem, can you tell me where they bought the power supply?

PLEASE HELP….

I need to know where to buy the power source. Thank you.

hola de nuevo he visto en la pagina profusion que no quedan fuente de alimentacion del modelo ALP0050-NU25, pero si hay del modelo ALP0050-NU31.

es posible ponerle esta fuente en vez de la otra de 25?

To Pascal, or anyone else that fixed your Zeppelin Air 30-pin, how did you get to the power supply?

I easily removed the doc arm but can’t figure out how to get the black base (with the captive threaded inserts) out without breaking the main rear case!

Hi!

Thanks for this article, as it became instrumental when disassembling my Zeppelin as the red LED started flashing.

In my case though, after unplugging the Zeppelin and plugging it back again it was able to play for about a minute before the red LED kicked in.

After doing the disassembly and verifying the capacitors condition (which was quite ok by the way) I started to look closer at the power supply PCB and large heat sink it is connected with. The elements directly with the radiator had thermal paste on them. I've disassembled the radiator. Instantly it became clear what might the the red LED root cause in my case. The thermal paste had no more in the right consistency and it was barely anything left of it.

Replaced the paste, put the whole thing back together. Voilà! Problem solved.

Regards,

MM

It’s worked! Thanks a lot.

I would be fantastic if anyone has taken pictures or video of the procedure. My Zeppelin Air just had the blinking red light. I unplugged it and replugged it and now the unit no longer powers on at all!

I suggest replacing all electrolytic capacitors on the PSU board. There are 5. On a customer machine recently, I found 2 were short circuit, 1 was leaking and the other two down on capacitance and up on ESR. The The brand SAMXON were the guilty parties. If you are able to increase the voltage of the capacitor spec - that is good. I just fitted them in. (diam is tight but you have height available) Peter Mony. Nagravox Australia.

Have just repaired a Zeppelin.

The 2200uF 16V capacitor (Samxon) was clearly faulty as its end was swollen. Replaced it together with the 470uF 16V (Samxon), 220uF 35V (Rubycon) & 1000uf 35V (Rubycon) with Panasonic FR series capacitors of the same capacitance and voltage rating.

As the total cost for these capacitors was £2.89 it was considered worth while doing all 4 at the one time. There are are also two 47uF 400V capacitors (on the high voltage side of the switch mode power supply) but an internet search indicated that these seldom fail.

It should be noted that there are 3 fuses on the power supply, one adjacent to the 2 pin AC input connector and two at the other end of the board near the 6 pin DC output connector which should be checked early on in the repair process (in my case they were ok).

The specification for the power supply can be found at

http://cdn-docs.av-iq.com/dataSheet/Able...

These instructions gave my recently gifted Zeppelin a resurrection at a cost of $1.50. Thank you.

This YouTube video (https://youtu.be/_Cs7Y9_X0JY) helped a little, especially with removing the covers. There is a latch clip on the outside tips, on the back side. Feel for it and you’ll be able to depress it. Get you nails in between the centre metal beam and the cover, keep the clip depressed and slide. Use your thumbnail agains the cover’s edge and index fingernail against the centre beam and twist against each other like you are snapping your fingers. After moving a few mm, you can get your other hand in to help as the clip will have gone past the lock catch. Expect a lot of friction for the first 2”.

Note at the, edges at the top and bottom, there is a lip. This lip goes into the channel on the speaker. Toward the inner 1/3, the channel narrows. When you replace it, the lip must go into the channel. If it misses, it will flex outwards and you won’t be able to replace the covers properly.

I found one capacitor (2200uF 16V 105º electrolytic) that was swollen. I don’t have a meter to check these in circuit but the swelling was indicative. I replaced just this one. It was difficult to remove. I needed a helper to apply the soldering iron while I wiggled the cap out. I couldn’t clean up the solder, so snipped off the excess on the new cap and pushed it through while my helper applied the iron to the hole. This hint might help you if you’re a novice like me.

On replacing the board to the speaker, the 4 screw mounts disintegrated as I screwed down. So take great care that the mounts are good and the board aligned very well before applying the screws.

Another hints is to write left and right on the inside of the speaker covers as you remove them. You’re welcome.

I have the red light flashing and on the ipod saying charging is unsupported. It won't play music nor will it turn off. I've had this repaired years ago with the same issue. I've also tried turning it of at the main without any change