Hi Dennis, Did you consult Asus support on this matter? I also work at a school, in the past we used a lot of Asus computers, both laptops and desktops. In my experience their support department is very helpful, but of course this could depend on the country you’re in. Asus support is your best chance though, they’re the experts on their gear! Greetings, Eelco (from the Netherlands)
Gently tap the battery door with the back of a screwdriver. The stuff running out of leaky batteries is very briddle, it wil probably crumble when you tap it. The batteries might be a bit swollen due to the corrosion, so the battery springs don’t push the bateries out. Could be a bit of hassle, but I think you’l manage. Cleaning the corrosive fluid inside the camera is the bigger challenge, it might have done some damage. If not, stop it from doing so by cleaning the contacts with alcohol.
Hi Jessica, Today I took 3 of these apart because it had been a while. As you can see I removed my previous advice because it applies to a different (older) calculator. I'm very sorry for that. The three Ti-83's I took apart were all different, so I assume there are quite a few different types of the same calculator. The bad news is: the display connectors on these calculators are difficult to repair. Ti used adhesive to glue the connector to display and print, and it decays after time. This may be repairable with a bit of heat and lots of patience, but I wouldn't expect a long life of the repair.
Hi Liviu. Nevermind the hardware, this is probably a software problem. Might be malware related, check for adware and such. Also check for plugins in your browser that you did not install yourself and things like non-standard toolbars. In task management you can look for the processes that consume disk access time and processor capacity, it might give you a clue on what's wrong.
Must be a regional setting. Check if the wrong keyboard layout is selected. Most common is US international, check the keyboard layout of your laptop if That's your layout. Some countries use a different layout, but it requires a corresponding keyboard.
Since you probably have two of those speakers, you can compare values. My guess is that one of your power lines is missing (positive or negative), so measuring the powersupply voltage would be my first try.
Check Louis Rossmann's YouTube channel or the EEVblog channel, they made a few videos on lab equipment. Louis is a microsoldering specialist on Macbook logic boards, he has some good tips on good quality for small budgets.
Get a soldering station with active tips, meaning the heating element is in the tip. Even the top brands such as Hakko and Weller use passive tips on their low-end models. The tips are cheaper, but the soldering temperature is just not as consistent as the ones with active tips. Better to choose new technology on Chinese stations than old technology on a top brand. Top brands will probably last you longer, but your soldering jobs will be better with an active tip. I own a pretty expensive JBC station, but Hakko offers more affordable stations with the same technology (The FX-951 for example). The FX-888D is an example of old technology from a top brand. Not the best choice in my opinion. Note that Hakko stations are copied a lot, the internet is full of fake Hakko FX-951 stations. You can tell by the incredibly low prices. Check some YouTube review video's on those, the quality is not necessarily too bad. A good choice for a small budget until you can afford the real thing. You should also check if you can...
You have applied way too much heat on the pads. A few seconds is all they can take, 350 degrees Celsius max. This is a double sided print, so the switch leads are soldered all the way through the print. Thats pretty difficult to remove with good soldering skills, let alone as a beginner. Best practice: use a desoldering iron, it sucks the solder out of the holes after heating it. Next best practice: use flux and desoldering wick, if you're lucky all of the solder comes out. HEAVILY Improvising: use a heat gun at 300 degrees Celsius and pull out he switch as soon as ALL OF THE THREE solder joints of the switch are fluid. Not too long though, you will melt some parts if you apply too much heat. Use aluminium foil to protect the rest of the print from excessive heat. Remember, this last method is a pretty desperate one, but i still remember what it's like to have no tools no money and no clue... Since the damage is already done, find a way to repair the tracks on both sides of the print with thin wire....