I had this happen to my A70. I replaced the USB-C port but it still wouldn't charge. I read later that it's a failure in the chip that controls charging and saw a video where a guy soldered a thin wire from the chip directly to the USB-C port and it started charging again. I have up after that cause there's no one in my area that does micro soldering and that's just not in my wheel-house.
It's a known issue with the g5. You can try replacing the screen but I can't promise that will work. I had to replace my screen from it being cracked and I'm still seeing the ghost images. Some tricks have been suggested like turning down the screen brightness. See here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g5/help/lg-g5-screen-ghosting-burn-problem-t3545769
Turns out it was a faulty NFC/Wireless Charging coil. The flex ribbon that extends from the coil and connects to the logic board actually came off the coil. Looks like the solder points for the pads was pretty weak.
A few bits of information might be needed: 1) Has this phone been repaired or is it all original parts? 2) Are the charging cable and power adapter originals or dollar-store disposables? And do they show signs of wear? I’ve seen the charging issue with the iPhone 6s happen when a faulty aftermarket replacement home button was installed. I replaced the home button with another aftermarket one and it was charging fine again.
I have a Kenmore 600 series top loader. We had a problem with rodents in the house and they started to chew the drain hoses which caused the same problem. There are two hoses - one short one that goes from the bottom of the fill basin to the pump and the other goes from the pump to wherever your laundry water empties. These hoses should always have a little water in them since they'll never fully drain.
Oh, I just answered my own question. I never realized that there was a sub-number for the two iPad 2 models. Turns out the 2011 is an A1395 (EMC 2415), where the 2012 "iPad 2,4" is A1395 (EMC 2560). These EMC numbers can be found on the back of the device in the second row of small lettering.
Once the LCD is clear of the shield, wiggle a long plastic spudger up the center between the shield and the battery to gently bend the shield. That will help in getting it away from the sides and make it easier to come out.
I’ve done many iPad Mini 1 and 2 repairs and have had no problems. However with the touch ID home button on the iPad Mini 3 it makes it a bit trickier. I haven’t been able to successfully transfer a touch ID capable home button to the new digitizer, let alone install a new home button and have it work.
Once the LCD is clear of the shield, wiggle a long plastic spudger up the center between the shield and the battery to gently bend the shield. That will help in getting it away from the sides and make it easier to come out.
I’ve done many iPad Mini 1 and 2 repairs and have had no problems. However with the touch ID home button on the iPad Mini 3 it makes it a bit trickier. I haven’t been able to successfully transfer a touch ID capable home button to the new digitizer, let alone install a new home button and have it work.
Anyone have any tips?
Would this process work for the Prestige Elite 8qi as well?