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Respuesta a "USB port replacement for SM-T350"I would strongly recommend replacing the charge port with the same type of charge port that was originally in the device, which I assume was micro USB. While the extra current provided by a USB C port shouldn't be a problem (the device should only draw as much current as it needs), USB C chargers can also operate at more than five volts, and that is potentially a problem. A device designed to operate / charge at 5 volts, which a device with a micro USB port would be, should not be provided a higher voltage than that. Many eBay sellers, including me, sell new ports for a whole variety of Samsung devices for very affordable prices (I charge $2.99).. this would prevent you from having to desolder the port from an existing board, which is not a trivial procedure. Almost all of the USB ports that I sell are Samsung. I don't know what it is about Samsung ports that makes them so much less stable than other brands, but they clearly are.
Respuesta a "USB port replacement for SM-T350"Darla, I routinely do this when replacing ports, especially Samsung. Obviously it has to be done carefully, but I find that even brand-new ports are somewhat loose and can be tightened this way. It could be done without replacing the port. I remove the circuit board from the tab or phone, insert a micro USB cable (that is NOT attached to power!), and then carefully and gently use a pair of pliers to compress the port toward the board from both top and bottom. Then I check tightness and adjust accordingly. If your port is really loose, this may not help. You may need a replacement, which requires soldering under a microscope. But if it’s only somewhat loose, it may be enough, at least for a while. I am a phone/tablet technician who does microsoldering, and has replaced many Tab A ports.
Respuesta a "Rear camera and flash don't work"Elena, iFixit is a large community of: users who want to fix their own devices, semi-professional and professional technicians who come here offering advice and sometimes seeking it, and a small core of employees who keep the site up and running, do the tear-downs and run the store, etc. It’s not intended as a place to find a repair technician to fix your phone (although many of us probably could) but rather as a resource if you want to fix it yourself. If if you are seeking advice, please provide more information. What type of phone? How long have you had it? What is the problem, exactly? How did the problem first arise? Was it dropped, exposed to water, or anything else that might have triggered the issue? Did it stop working all at once, or gradually over time? If you’re looking for someone else to fix it, you’re better off searching for a local repair shop or a mail-in provider (they’ll want the above information.) Be sure to ask questions before handing over your phone, and to do a complete backup of...
Respuesta a "Dead spot after digitizer replacement?"Marc, I don't remember for sure, but I think that what solved the problem for me was replacing the digitizer with a new one from a seller that I trust. I am not sure why my digitizer worked beautifully at first and then failed. Possibilities include small rips, kinks, or slightly bad/dirty connection points at the end of the cable. Or slightly incomplete insertion into a connector. This last is worth checking: open the latches on both connectors, carefully push the cable in with tweezers as far as it can go, and close the latches. In my case, possibly there was damage to the cable that was only revealed when the assembly was tightly closed. I think that I did insulate the edges of the digitizer with Kapton tape, as has been suggested elsewhere, and that did not help in my case. Another possibility if it is not the digitizer, is that one of the connectors is faulty. If you have a microscope or even magnifying glass, inspect the solder joints between each pin and pad, making sure that they look good and have...
Respuesta a "Dead spot after digitizer replacement?"This sort of thing just happened to me on an iPad 4 digitizer swap. I know the digitizer worked beautifully—right up until the final reassembly. I tested it numerous times by dragging an icon all over the screen. And it was removed from a well-working iPad (that was on someone else’s account whom I can’t reach, so its usefulness was limited.) The digitizer worked well before removal, after motherboard swap…everything except the final step of sealing it up. I took it back apart and re-seated the cable, but no good. So I’m very interested to any answers to Michael’s question, or the original. The most likely thing I can come up with is a very slightly damaged cable. I’ll test it with the broken glass digitizer next, if I can do so safely. It’s taped together and essentially intact. For that matter, I can also test it in the other iPad, to see whether I’ve caused a digitizer or motherboard problem…
Respuesta a "Why is computer getting really warm?"Dell Inspirons have terrible placement of their cooling fans, IMO. (I have one too, which I inherited when its fan overheated and broke and was too expensive to repair...I repaired and upgraded, then inherited it...) The fan is at the bottom, blowing air down (?!?). So if it's sitting on top of your lap (i.e. like a laptop...) often the fan is almost completely blocked by its contact with your lap. It's a bad design. I'm quite surprised at how long it has remained that way. The only real solution that I know of is to prevent a snug fit between your lap, or any surface, especially soft one) and the underside of the computer. Prop it up on something so there is airflow to the fan vents onthe bottom. Otherwise, as you've observed, it gets extremely hot. The next step is for the fan's motor to burn out. This is one of the most common failures for the Inspiron; it requires replacement of the fan. It's a cheap part, but repair involves taking almost everything out of the case to get at the fan. (An aside: this...
Respuesta a "USB port replacement for SM-T350"The chosen answer is not quite correct for the 8.0" 350. In step 8 of the motherboard replacement guide for the 8.0" Galaxy Tab A 350, there is a protective cover plate for the USB port that is removed via two 3 mm screws. There is no flex cable. (It does appear that other Galaxy Tab models do have flex cables, probably hence the confusion. The YouTube video cited is for a different model: also a Galaxy Tab A, but the 9.7" T555 rather than the 8.0" T350, I believe.) HOWEVER: once the protective cover is removed, what is revealed is the back of a standard USB port, with its four soldered anchor points. Once the motherboard is completely removed (see my comments on this procedure--some connectors need to be disconnected first that are not mentioned in the guide), and flipped over, the USB port is seen to have seven pins as well as the four anchors, which must be microsoldered to their pads. Only the middle three of these are really small; the other four are (relatively, for microsoldering) fairly large. But...
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