You mention you have ‘Updated’ the SSD and the motherboard - do you mean you have updated the SSD’s firmware, and the motherboard’s BIOS/UEFI? Regardless, the first thing I would try, rather than checking connections, would be to actually disconnect the boot drive - and all other drives, and all other USB peripherals; you just want the PC on its own, with nothing connected. If you can then get the machine to consistently boot through POST, and arrive (as it should) at a black screen saying it can’t find a boot device, it could well be a faulty drive. I’ve seen many faulty drives behave inconsistently like this - sometimes they’ll boot, other times they won’t. If it’ll do this five times in a row, you’ve found the culprit. If it still acts the same, at least you’ve ruled out the SSD, and it’s more likely to be the motherboard itself. In that case, have you tried going into the BIOS/UEFI, and resetting everything to default? If it behaves well without the boot drive in, and you have another PC, you could...

Another answer (sorry - too long for the comment box): Well, I'm a bit stumped. To clear something up, you say you were 'deleting' avast? do you mean you were uninstalling it, from Control Panel>Programs and Features? I hope so! As for why you were unable to uninstall it a second time, I have no idea, but that's worrying. Cached physical memory is data from RAM that has been stored in the swap file (or page file), which is a reserved area on the hard drive. This happens when the RAM becomes full, but the information it holds will be needed again. The fact that the RAM is becoming full upon startup is worrying, because it shouldn't! Windows will automatically manage the page file size, although you can manually set it. Don't bother changing anything to do with this - it's a symptom, not a cause. My only suggestion at this point would be to reinstall Windows afresh, all over again, this time installing drivers first, and in the correct order. Download them here: http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/swd/publi... In...

Probably needs new pots (potentiometers). If you're not confident changing them yourself, ask at the local music shop - they will almost certainly know someone who you can pay to do this for you. Alternatively, you could attempt to do it yourself - or just clean them. There are many guides on how to do this, e.g, this one: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Clean-The-Controls-On-Your-Amplifier/step5/Inspect-dirty-contacts/

When the XBOX can't your hotspot, have you checked to see if any other devices can see it?

Hi Lloyd, Could be a few things. Does the speaker cut out when it is connected to any device, or just the one you usually use it with? If you only use the one device, try another and report back. Also, Bluetooth and Wi-Fi (either 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz) can interfere with each other. How close is either device (Bose speaker or sending device - your phone?) to your Wi-Fi router, or access point(s)? If they are in close proximity, try moving them away.

Hi Timothy, Both the i5-6500 and the i5-6700 are of the socket FCLGA1151 form factor, so theoretically, the upgrade should work. I say 'theoretically', because while on a standard x64 motherboard, running Windows or Linux, it most definitely would be fine. However, Apple make it their business to wilfully prevent as many consumer upgrades and repairs as is humanly possible. For example, they have started soldering SSD drives onto motherboards, and in some cases, RAM. It would not surprise me at all if this had been prevented, but if you've read that it is, you may be ok with it. To clarify, the problem (if indeed there is one) isn't generically a hardware compatibility one - it's whether Apple have, on purpose, prevented CPU replacement. Focus your investigations in this area. Sorry that's not comprehensive, but I hope it helps you look for the relevant info.

Ok, just because there are no missing drivers, it doesn't mean that generic drivers aren't being used. I would still bother to try and download the correct ones to be sure. To find your motherboard model, open a command prompt (type 'cmd' on the Start menu and press Enter), and type (or paste) this (no speech marks): 'wmic baseboard get product,manufacturer,version,serialnumber' If installing the correct drivers makes no difference to the slowness you're seeing, something else must be the cause. With regard to what ETHREAL1 said, he's right that 4GB of RAM can't be fully used in a 32 bit OS, but my view is that an older dual core CPU like yours isn't really good enough to run 64 bit, so I think you're made the right choice going with 32 bit. You said that all the RAM slots are full. If you have 2 slots, you must have 2 x 2GB. If you have 4 slots, you must have 4 x 1GB. Either way, the RAM should be operating in full dual channel mode. If you were to up the amount to 6GB, I'm pretty sure you would need 4...

Hi Gerald, I can't say authoritatively, as it's been a while since I worked on an iMac, but I'm pretty sure that there is only one internal SATA port, for one drive. Newer ones may well have the SSD soldered to the board, and may not be replaceable (I know this is the case with Macbooks now). If it is replaceable, you're correct in thinking that you could replace it with a drive of greater capacity, but bear in mind that iMacs with removable drives have a thermal sensor cable that is hot-glued to the drive. I don't know if a different type of drive will affect the thermal readings on your particalar model, and whether or not this will affect what the iMac thinks is going on. I reckon it will be fine - you can probably just tape the sensor back in place (better to hot glue it, though). I've replaced iMac HDDs with SSDs several times before now, with no ill effects, but I can't say for definite about yours. With Apple stuff, there is always some idiosyncratic problem waiting to throw a spanner in the works...

Hi Salman, It's very likely that you will need to install the correct drivers for your computer, after installing Windows afresh. Windows 7 will attempt to automatically download ones it knows about, but it's quite common that it is unable to find the correct ones. Go to Device Manager (right-click 'My Computer' and choose 'Propeties', then 'Device Manager'. Are there any items that have exclamation points or triangles by them? Anything saying 'Unidentified'? If so, this is more than likely the problem. if this is a laptop, go to the manufacturer's website, and look for it in the 'Support>Drivers' section. Similarly, if it's a branded desktop, do the same. If it is a custom built machine, you will need to to identify the motherboard, and go to the motherboard manufacturer's site to get the drivers. Usually there will be drivers for the chipset, disk controllers, power management, and so on. Hope that helps. PS a small thing, but a matter of 'nomenclature', I daresay: many people refer to the tower, or main...

If you don't have a system restore disk that either came with the laptop, or that you made when it was working, you will need to install Windows afresh, with a Windows installation disk. Did the laptop have Windows Vista or Windows 7? I think that model came with either. You will probably need to buy a new copy of Windows. Windows 10 will probably be fine, but there is always a chance that some hardware components in a laptop won't work correctly without the drivers for the edition of Windows for which the hardware was intended. Basically, there's a greater chance of getting the correct drivers for Windows 7 (you will need to download them from the Dell site, most likely) than for Windows 10, but... ...bear in mind, though, that Windows 7 is no longer supported by MS, and that security (or other) updates no longer occur. You could always use the Windows Media Creation tool (found here: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows-8/create-reset-refresh-media) to download a copy of Windows 10, as a disk image...