Yes, it works. I don’t know if it makes a difference in the networking speed, but it does add the ability to unlock the Macbook with an Apple Watch, and is almost completely seamless aside from the caveats listed below. The part number to search for is: BCM94360CSAX I’ve found them on Amazon, eBay, and other sources. The two caveats on this: (1) Any apps that you’ve downloaded from the App Store seem to be tied to the MAC address, and you’ll have to authenticate at launch and/or re-download any apps from there. (2) If you bring it in for service at the Apple Store, their diagnostic tools seem to think that the Bluetooth is broken and they might replace the card. This happened to me when I had them replace the battery, so I had to get a new replacement card, install it, and re-authenticate the apps as above.
Re: the above “fold the battery to the right” comment: If all you’re doing is replacing the touchpad, the “fold over” method works as it keeps the wires in the channel. If you’re replacing the battery or whatever those wires connect to, obviously that won’t work.
There is a plastic channel along the right edge of the battery that has wires running through it to a different board. It works best if the other connector next to the battery connector is unclipped and those wires are taken out of that channel.
Along the right edge of the battery, there is a channel with wires running to a connector next to the battery connector. It works better to disconnect that connector too and fold the battery to the right.
When you replace the Airport card, (or at least if you’ve upgraded it to a newer but compatible 802.11ac/BT4.0 card) any apps you downloaded from the App Store won’t launch, but complain that they were downloaded on a different Mac. You’ll either need to authenticate with your Apple ID for each one, or reinstall them.
Re: the above “fold the battery to the right” comment: If all you’re doing is replacing the touchpad, the “fold over” method works as it keeps the wires in the channel. If you’re replacing the battery or whatever those wires connect to, obviously that won’t work.
There is a plastic channel along the right edge of the battery that has wires running through it to a different board. It works best if the other connector next to the battery connector is unclipped and those wires are taken out of that channel.
Mine had T5 as well.
The clips on the sides are between the USB ports on the left side, and just in front of the USB port on the right.
Along the right edge of the battery, there is a channel with wires running to a connector next to the battery connector. It works better to disconnect that connector too and fold the battery to the right.
The left screw is hidden below a tamper-evident sticker.
The back panel is also held on by a few clips, but a spudger can come in handy here.
The “Tools Required” section says “Torx T7” but Step 1 lists, and (more importantly) the actual device has Torx T5 screws.
Step 5 suggests using a spudger, so perhaps that should be listed too.
When you replace the Airport card, (or at least if you’ve upgraded it to a newer but compatible 802.11ac/BT4.0 card) any apps you downloaded from the App Store won’t launch, but complain that they were downloaded on a different Mac. You’ll either need to authenticate with your Apple ID for each one, or reinstall them.